Computer wont turn on PSU ticking 2nd time this week

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I tried to turn my PC on a few days ago and it wouldn't come on. So i replaced PSU and Motherboard incase one had screwed the other. It worked fine for a few days but now it wont turn on again. There is no little light on Mobo nothing happens when i press the power button and the PSU makes a ticking like a clock. when i turn the PSU off it continues ticking for about 30 seconds. here's what i've got
-Gigabyte K8VM800M
-AMD 64 3000+
-400W noname PSU (old one was a 300W)
-6600GT (plugged into my PSU)

i would appreciate any help
thanks
 
Try a plug in another room, or replace the PSU's power cord. Disconnect the 6600GT fron the PSU and see if the computer starts
 
with disconnected 6600GT it still wont work, im in a completley different city from 3 days ago when it first happened?? also i can hear the ticking in my speakers aswell as the PSU. The network card light doesn't come on either.
 
The ticking sound is from the power supply detecting an overload or short. Is the 120/220 switch set properly for 120 volts for the united States? If it is set for 220 volts this ticking can mean undervoltage too
 
Thanks for the info ViperHaze,
I can only think that somehow the motherboard is shorting to the case or your "no name" supply is not strong enough for your system
 
OK It's definatley the PSU i just tried it in another PC and it didn't work, But i want to know what keeps taking it out otherwise i'll just be buying PSU after PSU and i don't want to buy a whole new computer. I know it's not the mobo cause i just replaced it. Any ideas?
 
To begin with stop buying noname PSUs. Some are fine and some are total crap that may not provide enough power and may even fry your components, you just never know. Also generic PSUs tend to inflate their wattage claimes (a 400W noname PSU may only put out 150-200w under normal operateing conditions). The problem may be that the PSU you have gotten is under-powered. Try a good PSU from a conmpany like Antec, FSP, PC Power & Cooling, or Enermax. These PSUs also have safegards so if there is a short they will cut off before anything is fried and some even sound an alarm.

What are the amps on the 12V rail of the PSUs you have been getting? If they are too low the PSU may be useless regardless of the wattage claim.
 
it claims 16A at 12V so 192 say 200W. i can't find my multimeter so i cant test it, my system shouldn't need alot anyway, it used to run fine on a 300W noname
 
Those amps are verry low. Most good 300w PSUs have atleast 25A on the 12v rail(s). With that processer and video card you should have a minimum of 20A on the 12v rail and preferably more. Low amperage generaly means inflated wattage.
my system shouldn't need alot anyway, it used to run fine on a 300W noname

The thing about nonames is that some have legitimite reteings and others have inflated reateings. Also you were probably maxing out and possibly overloading the 300w PSU (some PSUs run for months overloaded but at extremly low effiencys and putting out alot of heat). I would recomend a 350W or higher PSU from one of the companys mensioned in my earlier post with a minimum of 20A on the 12v rail.
 
I'm not completely sure how to get a 100% accurite figure. Personally I just make a point of getting a PSU with a lot higher amp output than I need. The easyest way to get a ballpark figure would be to look at the recomendations for the video card(most video cards have a recomended minimum wattage and amperage for PSUs[It's best to add 20-30% to this for safety]). The most accurite way would be to find the amp draws of each component and add them together. You can probably find these on the internet.
 
Some of the older HP or Compaq 200 watt supplies could power a server system just fine, where some of today's 400 watt supplies couldn't power an Emachines system. Pure wattage ratings mean nothing. I've learned to trust names like Antec and Erermax
 
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