Dreamweaver all the way. When I first started out, I used Frontpage and I was fairly happy with it because I didn't know anything about HTML... hehe
Once I got my hands on Dreamweaver, it seemed awkward, but I wouldn't go back to anything else.. EVER. I use Dreamweaver 4 (I have UltraDev too, but I don't have a lot of use for the extras) and I'm very pleased with the control I have over your creations. Dreamweaver writes great HTML code too (minus some superfluous font tags), unlike Front Page which slops IE-only crap everywhere.
Dreamweaver also has advanced features that webmasters should really enjoy such as the HTML cleanup (looks for unecessary tags and removes them for you), advanced site-wide control features (search/replace etc..), and a compatbility verifier that compares your HTML code against any version of IE or Netscape you'd like to make sure it is compatible.
It's wonderful. If you know anything about HTML too, it has a color-coded text editor you can use to do it by hand. You even view your code and page at the same time and add your own little HTML tid bits as you drop and drag your page's design around.