New Mobo, Cpu, Ramsticks ---> PC Hangs up.

[osram]

New Mobo, Cpu, Ramsticks ---> PC Hangs up. VOLTAGE?!?! HELP!

Well ive been posting in a Thread on the OS Windows area for a while now without any succes. I had, like many others, the problems of not being able to run almost any 3d Game/Apllication.

It seemed so pointless that i bought myself a Gigabyte GA7N400SL Motherboard (Dual Channel) With 2x 512MB of Apacer PC3200 Ram and ordered an AMD Athlon XP 2700+ Tray CPU.

Yesterday when i got home from work it was finally here. my beloved rescue in form of a 0.13 micron processor.

Well i had to wait for one of my stupid stoner "friends" to get me some cooling paste. At least he really found the paste so i could start off installing the new ware pretty late at night though.

ive installed the new mobo, cpu, ramsticks, my geforce 6600 GT passive cooled graphicscard.

and well now i have several questions to pose:

1. in my bios setup it says that i have a 1500+ cpu installed (1100mhz) ?! .. ive read a bit through the amd identification thread but im still confused. can this be correct? the bios setting is set to "normal" and not to "overclocked".. it seems rather underclocked to me; does the board essentially need a flash or driver update to recognize my cpu properly? :hump:
(the number there is set to 133, and i cant change any multiplier at all.)

2. after the bios screen my system hangs up and cannot boot into windows not even in safe-mode. ive seen the other thread concerning this and i will try to repair my windows xp installation, as i assume its due to drivers installed for the old mobo etc. will have to check out this evening.

3. My cpu temperature seems to be around 60-66 degrees celsius. is this too much for pre-windows usage? what would you say? i mean at least i have one of those stupid p00py spire copper cpu coolers.
i wonder if this crap is like in audio-industry with gold plated cables and all that useless ****. too much moneymaking -.-

 

[howard_hopkinso]

1. in my bios setup it says that i have a 1500+ cpu installed (1100mhz) ?! .. ive read a bit through the amd identification thread but im still confused. can this be correct? the bios setting is set to "normal" and not to "overclocked".. it seems rather underclocked to me; does the board essentially need a flash or driver update to recognize my cpu properly? :hump:
(the number there is set to 133, and i cant change any multiplier at all.)

You need to set the fsb to 166mhz, you do this either in your bios, or via a jumper on the mobo. This should then give you the correct cpu speed. Look in your mobo manual on how to do this. You cannot change the multiplier of your cpu, as your cpu`s multiplier is locked.

2. after the bios screen my system hangs up and cannot boot into windows not even in safe-mode. ive seen the other thread concerning this and i will try to repair my windows xp installation, as i assume its due to drivers installed for the old mobo etc. will have to check out this evening.

Doing a Windows repair may well solve this issue. You are correct that your old mobo drivers are to blame.

3. My cpu temperature seems to be around 60-66 degrees celsius. is this too much for pre-windows usage? what would you say? i mean at least i have one of those stupid p00py spire copper cpu coolers.
i wonder if this crap is like in audio-industry with gold plated cables and all that useless ****. too much moneymaking -.-

Your cpu temp is far to high. Did you install the heatsink correctly? You only need to use a very small amount of thermal paste to the cpu die.
See HERE for a guide to using thermal paste.

Regards Howard

 

[PanicX]

Your CPU temp is high, but according to AMD's documentation your CPU's max temp rating is 85 celcius.

I'd recommend using some Artic Silver for thermal compound, works great.

 

[osram]

well my system is not cooled very well anyway.. i only have one fan, the spire cpu-fan on the heatsink.. and some minimal ventilation from my superflower 400 watts PSU.

ive already applied some silver colored heatpaste on the chip.

i think i applied a bit too much, looking at the images you posted, but i dont think its an enormous amount. it surely wont get under the cpu (to the pins) and there were also some minimal remnants of the white cooling paste coming with the spire cpu heatsink.

in any case i dont like removing/reinstalling the heatsink too much, as im afraid of damaging the edges of the cpu-chip. i will probably get that nifty "little" home-use vent from my mate and put it right by the opened case of my computer. that should lower the temperature. as i had to do it for guildwars ^^

also the default jumper setting for the mobo should be "ON" (for 166 upwards i think)
"OFF" would lock it to 100 if im not mistaken.

i hope you are sure i have to set it to 166 in my bios

thanks for your responses i will check it out @ home.

 

[howard_hopkinso]

i hope you are sure i have to set it to 166 in my bios

Take a look HERE at these AMD Athlon XP specs. You will see that the Athlon XP 2700+ cpu has a fsb of 333mhz, which means your fsb should be set to 166mhz(333mhz effective).

Regards Howard

 

[osram]

yeah thanks i found a reference 10 minutes ago myself

i also calculated a factor of 13.05 when using a frequency of 166. so i assumed it might be correct.

the reference showed a multiplicator of 13x and so my assumptions where confirmed.

 

[howard_hopkinso]

Is you cpu now running at the correct speed?

Have you managed to lower those temps, and has this stopped the pc from hanging?

Regards Howard

 

[kirock]

I do think you need to flash your BIOS, if it doesn't recognise the 2700XP then somethings wrong there. It also might help to determine your correct CPU temp. If your temp is truly 60-66C with no OS running, that suckers going to jump 10C when windows loads and runs any application. What CPU cooler are you using, is that a Zelman?

Also once you get the Windows repaired so you can load the OS you should update your mobo drivers asap.

Good luck with your new mobo/CPU and lets us know how the game crashing goes, hopefully good news.

cheers :grinthumb

 

[osram]

MWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

oh yes good news indeed!

according to the manual of my gigabyte mobo the default jumper setting for the cpu freq. is set to ON. but i was already wondering why the corresponding "images" for ON and OFF were turned around in the manual.. so i looked on my mobo and found out that the default is set to "OFF". (locked @ 100mhz FSB) so i switched to on.. changed the speed in my bios and it now recognizes my sweet darling 2700+ correctly.

it sounds logical to me because if someone had a 100mhz FSB processor and the default was ON it would burn the chip right away.. anyway, the manual is nice only with this aspect its all wrong.

i was playing max payne 2 for several hours @ 1024x768 on max details and 2x AA and it ran absolutely fluent and with pretty short loading times. :giddy:

in the night before going to bed i couldnt boot up my computer anymore.. i was very frustrated.. also my cpu temperature is around 80 degrees, which is pretty critical. i will get 2 more vents by the cpu area and if that doesnt help i will get the home-vent for humans (hrhrhr) and place it looking directly at the opened case.

i am using a spire heatsink (copper) running at about 2100 RPM. the problem is too few vents in general to cause an air circulation..

but there is still a happy "end".. this morning before going to work i reset my bios and tried several things.. and i noticed that when unplugging my keyboard it would power on my monitor and boot into windows normally...

although i try to connect the speaker "plugs" i hear no beeps.. not even the normal single beep; i mainly use power switch and reset switch and thats it.. also its hard to find out which side is anode and which one cathode.. but i also managed to get hdd LEDs etc. to work.

well anyway i dont care.. i will get more ventilation.. and i find it very strange that a computer doesnt boot without keyboard. (its probably broken.)

my new setup seems to run fine apart from this.. i am really glad.. it never ran as nice as now since about 2 yrs.. (most of the time it didnt run at all.)

thanks to you all.. to my new cpu and the freshly bought mobo/RAMS.

now i dont hate you all anymore.. only most of you.

greethings, happy dappy osram.

 

[osram]

errrr ok. -.-

ive tried another keyboard. still the same problem. :7

ive been looking in everest and my mate noticed that my +5V rail is sometimes even below 2 Volts. ~.~ LOL?!

my +12V Rail is at about 11.96V or above.. but before my problem i think it was mostly at around 12.6V.

My mate says it is probably some kind of current leak. he will bring some tool to measure this evening.

"what you sei?!?!?! all your base r belong to us!... there is no escape. time will come.."

what can say about this guys?

i feel like a village drunkard described in some early irish literature.. trying to resolve some never-ending computer problems in the mid-90s after a crazy time-travel.
i think now i know what hell looks like.
-------------------------------

edit: im not happy at all anymore.

 

[osram]

please HELP ME!

 

[kirock]

I'm just going to state the obvious for now. Disconnect all accessories except the HDD. This means your speakers and HDD LEDs on the case. Remeasure your 5V rail (red wire to black (grd)). If still no good make sure the mobo is mounted clear of all contacts to the case. Some mounts require an insolator washer at the mounting screw point, make sure these have remained in place. The +5V rail is also fed to the Power Good terminal on the 20pin(or newer 24pin) mobo connector. If the 5V is not there the compuert will not POST.

That 80C is critically hot and I'd fix that immediately with an external fan blowing on your open case for now.

ATX mobo connector:

Pin Signal Color 1 Color 2 Pin Signal Color 1 Color 2
1 3.3V orange violet 11 3.3V orange violet
2 3.3V orange violet 12 -12V blue blue
3 GND black black 13 GND black black
4 5V red red 14 PS_ON green grey
5 GND black black 15 GND black black
6 5V red red 16 GND black black
7 GND black black 17 GND black black
8 PW_OK grey orange 18 -5V white white
9 5V_SB violet brown 19 5V red red
10 12V yellow yellow 20 5V red red

Looking down at the connector (so you can see the little sockets)

10..................1
20..................11
(tab)

Cheers.

 

[osram]

thanks ALOT kirock. im probably too stupid for the electrical tech gibberish right now. but i will take a humans-vent from my mate here right now. so that should be eliminated.

my mate told me that there are some plastic isolators to avoid any metal contact between mobo and case as you stated.. is it possible that they were delivered with my mobo and i missed something?

i dont think ive seen any isolators in the box. i will have to read through the installation part of the manual more carefully.

i also dont understand how you can fit some isolators between the holes and the fixture knobbs.. but i will try to buy some anyway.

i will copy your reply to my mp3 and use it at home.
still have to wait for a multimeter to check out the charges.. 3 people i know have one, but its always the brother who has it atm.. or they have it at work.
i hope i wont need it.

thanks alot.. you are my savior.

will repost on news.. *sigh*

unbelievable.. every single component is no older than 2 weeks atm. totally fresh. and one problem after another. i will b pro after the machine runs fine.. o.O

ps: i think the 3volts missing on the 5v rail are exactly the ones missing to run my keyboard AND monitor etc. lol. i will disconnect my mouse and try to get into bios with the keyboard... i could also walk and aim switching keyboard/mouse to continue playing max payne 2. 00oo0o00___xxXXXxxXX

--------------------------------------------

edit: by the way, i like your sig. although it scares the **** out of me.
strange coincidences.. (osram = light bulb brand.. swedish one i think.)

 

[osram]

okay so i went to my retailer today. he could explain me what you meant with the table as i gave him my mp3 with your txt.-file on it.

maybe i should have read the text while looking at a 20-pin connector. ^^

anyway.. i dont have a mutlimeter atm.. he suggested me to bring the mobo, cpu and ram if changing to my old cpu wouldnt bring any changes. they have some nifty little thingy where you can plug the 20 pin connector and it displays whether the charges are correct or not.

also he said that the issues will probably not be any "contact" between mobo and case. i also checked the mobo connections and there is a plastic ring around every screw. also he said that about 5mm around the holes on the mobo there are no circuits at all.

i switched the cpu to my old 1200+ and the same problem still persists. i cant get into windows without disconnecting the keyboard. o.O

still way below 5V on the +5V rail.

now i have to wait until wednesday so i can go to the retailer with my equipment.

*yawn*

 

[kirock]

Yep, probably the best thing to do, let pros look at it. If the screws have the little isolator washers then you probably aren't shorting the 5V rail to case ground. Can you believe it, it might be the PSU. Tell me it's not so!

You did say you tried another keybrd right? So maybe something happened to the PSU. If you could get a multimeter, u can short pins 13 and 14 (this is what the mobo does through the power on button) (i.e. the power on button on the front just shorts pins 13 and 14 on the 20pin connector.) You would remove the connector from the mobo (prob best to disconnect all other PSU connections too), then use a wire to short pin 13 to 14. Now turn the power button on the PSU and she should start up (fan will run). Now measure across the any red and black wires to see if 5Volts are there. Black is ground and red is 5Volt rail.

Like I said in last post, if no 5V then the Power Good signal does not reach mobo and the PC will not POST. Can you put an old PSU in it for now, just to see if she'll boot up?

Good luck, computers really suck sometimes man! I just built my gaming rig this past September and can't believe she came to life on the very fisrt power on and had no probs formatting and loading WinXP. I've read since then so many horror stories about new builds, i must have had some pretty good luck.

Cheers, and don't give up you will win!

 

[osram]

okay. so i put my old 300 W loser PSU in it which doesnt even give you 250 W remember? and it seems to run ok with my 1200+ cpu. but the problem with the 5V rail still persists... although i can connect my keyboard AND mouse now.

ive been playing spellforce for 5 hours straight today and it didnt crash once.. also the 1200+ produces much less heat, and the spire heatsink/vent seems to be sufficient cooling.

i am once again.. pretty confused. if the error lies within the 2700+ cpu i dont like it all

i still havent got the needed 5V power.. it drops even to 1.10 rarely now...

what should i do now? go to my retailer with 2 cpus.. my mobo and rams.. and both PSUs? wodsefak?! what will they think.. man i dont even know if i can carry so much stuff without a car. (and without breaking it)

 

[kirock]

So you now have the 1200cpu back in, can the newer PSU run ok with that CPU?

You did disconnect any floppy drives and CDROM drives right. (they use both 5 and 12 volt rails), if one of these has gone bad they could be pulling the 5V rail down.

In order to troubleshoot this you have to replace 1 thing at a time and measure the difference.(ie. the 5V supply rail).

You' ve put the 300W PSU bk in and the old 1200CPU and u still have lower voltage on 5V. So it's either the mobo or something connected to the PSU, like the HDD , floppy, CD/DVDROM drives. Do you have any 5 volt fans in your case? Disconnect those.

It's prob best to just take the new mobo/2700+ and RAM to the retailer. Let him connect a suitible PSU. If it all works fine there then u know something happened to your PSU. If it doesn't work there, then maybe he could substitute components until he finds what's bad.

Good luck.

 

[osram]

wow this is a real 2-man light bulb discussion thread. edison would be ****ing proud of us discussing the technologies from this century!

It's prob best to just take the new mobo/2700+ and RAM to the retailer. Let him connect a suitible PSU. If it all works fine there then u know something happened to your PSU.

I dont quite understand that part. Why should i know it was the PSU if i go to my retailer and check my mobo/ram with a PSU from the shop? (At least both of my PSUs have the 5V Syndrome. And actually believe that my superflower super mega PSU broke in less than 2-3 weeks?)

I will try to use my superflower PSU once again. with the old cpu. If it doesnt work i will go to my retailer on my next day off.. and take the new psu.. my ram.. mobo.. and the old and new cpu with me.

thanks for your answers once again, specially the tiny but crucially important bit about the devices using 5V and 12V rail. So i can do some more erruation and i feel alot more confident as i think to understand the whole spectrum concerning this problem now.
Although ive only got my harddrive and cdrom connected atm.

PS: a good mate of mine told me yesterday that the guy working at the retailer whom i always talk to is actually the "deputy" chief in that shop. so i wont care to bring that stuff to him even if it looks a bit crazy. i think others have to pay for such services..

Quote of my mate: "I dont know how... but i am sure we will get that 2700+ working in your machine some day.."

 

[kirock]

How is that working out with the mobo and 2700+? I'm starting to believe it's the new mobo (something defective or there is a short on it somewhere). If you put in the old CPU and the new CPU with both power supplies (old and superflower) nad you still have low to no 5V rail then the only COMMON thing is the mobo!

Can you please disconnect the mobo mounting screws and try to hold the mobo away from the case and power up the computer. Maybe have a mate help you (4 hands are better then 2, sort of thing).

If it is a defective mobo and you can get a warranty replacement.

Cheers,

 

[osram]

yay! i will go to the shop today... i will cutthroat every customer with blunt objects to be first in the line and explain my problem to my favorite retailer! yes sir.

eeerrrr... 0_x

seriously now. im fed up.. the games work fine now, but i dont like the 5v problem at all. and pro evolution soccer 5 and nfs most wanted would run more bettar with thar 2700+ processor. harr!