USB Mouse Not Responding to ThinkPad

By Falco75
Aug 11, 2008
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  1. I've tried 4 different mice on this laptop, as I prefer them greatly over the eraser head and touch pad, and none of them will connect.

    1 is a Targus, wired mouse that worked last week, and suddenly does not anymore, and the other 3 are Microsoft wireless laser and optical mice. All of them use a USB to plug in, as my laptio doesn't have any of the circular mouse ports.

    I've tried changing the batteries, finding software from Microsoft, Control Panel Hardware-Adding, Troubleshooting, Rebooting, Disconnecting and Re-Connecting, and now I'm all out of ideas.

    The wireless mice has receivers that keep a steady green light, but the mouse itself won't budge.

    http://tinyurl.com/mouse1 is the 1st wireless mouse, where the receiver will keep a constant green light and the mouse won't respond.

    http://tinyurl.com/mouse2 is the 2nd wireless, where the receiver will blink green when i hold down the butotn, but will stop once i let go, and I have tried to oress the connect button but that won't do it. The red laser on the bottom stays lit, but it simply won't go anywhere.

    http://tinyurl.com/mouse3 is the new, fresh out of the box wired mouse that worked for several days, but now will not work. I plug it in, the laser comes up underneath the mouse and stays on, but the cursor will not move. I tested it on another laptop where it worked just fine. I'm not sure where on the computer I should be looking to find how to fix this.

    I've looked at the BIOs, but have had no such luck. Running on Windows XP Pro. Any and all help s appreciated.

    P.S. soryr if this is the wrong area for my thread, wasn't sure if this should be in "Other Hardware" or not.
  2. raybay

    raybay TechSpot Evangelist Posts: 10,716   +6

    First info we need is which model of thinkpad. USB 1.1 or USB 2.0
    Do other USB devices work?
    Does a full size logitech usb mouse or Microsoft USB mouse work. The Targus has always been a trouble-prone mouse with many reported failures, as have some other "miniature mouse" products sold for laptops.
    Have you tried cleaning the USB ports with called air, a Q-Tip and 90% alcohol?

    Some Thinkpads had a problem with solder failure on some models, requiring a replacement by IBM Lenovo.
    Be sure all your USB devices are enabled in the Device Manager of System in the Control Panel... and that none of them have yellow or red flags.
  3. Falco75

    Falco75 Newcomer, in training Topic Starter Posts: 18

    I'm almost positive it's USB2.0.
    I've plugged in my Zune and it charged normally. The Targus and the receivers to one of the mice will light up when I plug them in, but I haven't gotten anywhere past that. I've tried all series of holding down the "Connec" buttons to sync them with no luck.
    My full size Microsoft Wireless Optical Mouse 2.0A wasn't working either. I used to use it on my desktop where I had no problems, but while the laser will light up on the bottom, when I hold down the sync button the light will blink.

    I saw a topic about removing all of the USB ports fromt he control panel, and after rebooting they will all come back, refreshed and a chance or picking up the mice?
  4. raybay

    raybay TechSpot Evangelist Posts: 10,716   +6

    It sounds as if the port actually works, from what you describe, but that the drivers may be buggared up.

    Do you have any yellow or red flags in the Device Manager (Control Panel->System->Hardware->Device Manager) for USB or Universal Serial Bus Controllers?
    Those flags will indicate a driver error.

    What works for us for a variety of USB port issues is to uninstall or disable drivers and reinstall them.
    Check first to see if the drivers are available, then download them to a spot you can later find.
    Then remove or disable anything that has "Chipset" "or "controller".
    This action can be a problem because it temporarily disables some of the function of the computer, but it clears away the problem.
    Another fix that works is to install your Windows XP disk in R for Repair mode... but some versions on restore or recovery disk sets do not have this feature.
    You can use an OEM Windows Disk if you are careful to run only R for Repair. See Below.
    Another repair is to obtain a copy of Service Pack 2 on Disk. ($3.40 at Microsoft, plus postage for a total of $10 or so) an reinstall Service Pack 2. That is known to repair a lot of USB issues... The disk version works where the download version does not work as well.

    If you have, or can borrow an XP CD, boot your computer using that disc. You may need to change the boot order in your computer BIOS (usually by pressing <DEL> at startup to get to the change boot section) because you want the CD to boot before the hard drive. If this doesn’t work, check your system documentation for steps to access your BIOS, then change the boot order. Once done, you may want to go back and return it to the way it was.
    You should then see a <welcome to setup> screen, where you will find these choices:
    This portion of the Setup program prepares Microsoft
    Windows XP to run on your computer:
    To setup Windows XP now, press Enter.

    To repair a Windows XP installation using Recovery Console, press R.

    To quit Setup without installing Windows XP, press F3 and
    Press <ENTER> to start the Windows Setup.
    Don’t choose “To repair a Windows XP Installation using the recovery console, Press R” as that will produce unwanted time and trouble.
    Accept the License Agreement and Windows will search for existing Windows installations.
    Select the XP installation you want to repair from the list and at this time press R to start the repair. If Repair is not one of the options, stop running the setup.
    Setup will copy the necessary files to the hard drive and reboot. Do not depress any key to boot from the CD when that message appears. Setup will continue as if it were doing a clean install, but your applications and settings will remain intact.
    Do not immediately activate over the internet when asked, enable the XP Firewall before connecting to the internet. You can activate after the firewall is enabled. Control Panel - Network Connections. Right click the connection you use, Properties and there is a check box on the Advanced page.
    1. Reapply updates and install Service Packs applied since initial Windows XP installation. Please note that a Repair Install using an Original pre service pack 1 or 2 XP CD used as the install media will likely remove SP1/SP2 respectively and service packs plus updates issued after the service packs will need to be reapplied.

    What this will usually do for you is correct any problems with the Windows Install that may be affecting your Windows as installed or damaged, particularly the hardware issues with USB. Because, normally, USB and 1394 are installed as part of Windows.

    Note that some infestations cause this problem and good scans by software you trust are in order.

    You will also find a great deal of information with a Gurgle search about restoring USB functions.

    Good luck. Please let us know how it all turns out.
  5. Falco75

    Falco75 Newcomer, in training Topic Starter Posts: 18

    so the gist of what I'm getting here is that I should get my hands on a my copy of Windows, and use it to repair the operting system, and any corruptions that may have caused the USB ports to malfunction? Not to mention any specifics, but could these files be found from the internet, or even through a torrent?
  6. lamo

    lamo Newcomer, in training Posts: 570

    falco75, can you check the operational of other USB devices, such as usb flash-drives, or something else?
  7. raybay

    raybay TechSpot Evangelist Posts: 10,716   +6

    The first question is whether you have red and yellow flags in the device manager.
    Most USB problems can be fixed by a Windows Repair, if the ports are otherwise clean. Since you get power out of yours, and you apparently see no problems in the BIOS, the problem is with USB drivers which are part of Windows, and are repaired and replaced by the repair mode of Windows.
    If you have no yellow or red flags in device manager, and IF you have no power through the USB ports, the answer may be different. In any event, the repair function, as described, is the first step in getting back to normal.
  8. radnam

    radnam Newcomer, in training Posts: 53

    Hey i am sure its an issue with the drivers Had the same issue with my Uncles Laptop. Changed the mouse worked for a while and stopped working.

    Installed the drivers again and it worked like a charm
  9. raybay

    raybay TechSpot Evangelist Posts: 10,716   +6

    Perhaps. The Targus uses a driver, as do all wireless mouse setups... but not USB.
    You are almost guaranteed to have a problem with anything that comes out of the TinyUrl compy in my experience.
  10. Falco75

    Falco75 Newcomer, in training Topic Starter Posts: 18

    Here is the link to whe driver updates for my ThinkPad, but I don't see anything specifically for the USB, unless I look in Vista. Would one of these files suffice to repair the Windows settings that a repair could?

    No, I did not see any flags whatsoever under my Hardware list, and yes, the USB port provides power to my Zune, as well as the Targus wired-mouse laser lighting up.
  11. raybay

    raybay TechSpot Evangelist Posts: 10,716   +6

    There are NONE.
    There are no USB drivers as such. They are part of windows XP and Windows VISTA

    The Mouse may have its own drivers, provided by the Mouse manufacturer, but you will only get any action on USB, if Bad, by installing Windows in Repair mode, not Repair Console mode.

    If you need instructions on how to do the repair mode, let me know. It requires an Full Version of Windows or an OEM verions. Computer manufacturers restore or recovery Windows disks will not work. The repair install of Windows will reinstall the Windows USB drivers...

    But I suspect the problem is with the Targus. It usually is.
  12. Falco75

    Falco75 Newcomer, in training Topic Starter Posts: 18

    Ok, well if that is my last solution at this point, then Repair of Windows is what I will need to do. I don't know if you want to post the instructions through this thread, or PM me, or if there is a thread or link I can be pointed to, but I suppose that's my next move.

    I don't think I'll be able to dig up a Windows XP disc anytime soon, so I'll so what I can do.
  13. raybay

    raybay TechSpot Evangelist Posts: 10,716   +6

    These instructions won't help much, if you do not have the correct Windows Disk. You may want to explore Slipstreaming, which you can find with a gurgle search.

    To Repair, as opposed to Repair Console... the long version
    You can use a Windows Full Retail install disk from Microsoft, or an OEM XP Professional or OEM XP Home disk or an upgrade of either to performa your Repair Install. You can also perform an inplace upgrade of Windows.

    However, Company restore disk sets from the computer manufacturer, or the hidden restore files found on a hidden partition will NOT work.

    A properly handled repair install is supposed to replace the system files, and hardware files with those found on that disc version. It will not work easily if your install CD is older than the installed Winodws on the hard drive. Once done, you will find your applications, files, folders, and data as they were before. But you will need to re-install Windows Updates, and Service packs. It is handy to have ordered the Windows Service pack on CD from Microsoft for $3.40 plus shipping… or about $10 as it usually arrives by delivery service.
    Your repair install will replace any files altered by such malware and adware program, but will not fix the underlying problem. So you must run a new scan with trustworthy software at the end of the repair install.
    You should disconnect from any possibility of connecting to the internet. No firewall. No hardware cable. No Wireless card or connection.
    Begin the repair install by booting to the Windows CD you have. You could find that you need to change the boot order in the BIOS to do this. Do a gurgle search or get back to me if you have trouble doing this.
    You should soon see the Welcome to Setup on your screen. There will be options beneath this screen. You will get a notice something like, “this portion of the Setup program prepares Microsoft
    Windows XP to run on your computer; then to setup Windows XP now, press ENTER.
    Next, you will get something like, “To repair a Windows XP installation using Recovery Console, press R. YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS. STOP now If you have no experience with Repair Console installs.
    Your next choice, is To quit Setup without installing Windows XP, press F3.
    But the main choice now is, “Press <ENTER> to begin the Windows Setup:
    As said above, you do not want to select the Repair a Windows XP installation using the Recovery Console, press R, unless you are very experienced in the use of the Recovery Console. Otherwise, you are going to be very confused, waste a lot of time, and likely make a lot of regrettable mistakes.
    You will get another chance to select an R for Repair below. But first, you need to accept the Microsoft License Agreement and Windows will search for your existing Windows installation you want to repair, and give you a list.
    Choose from the list Windows provides the XP Installation you wish to repair and

    Press R which will begin the repair.
    If you do NOT get the R choice, end this setup, and start over. NOW.

    Otherwise, Setup will begin copying the needed files from the CD to the hard drive, as you are in Repair Mode. When done, reboot.
    Don’t press the key for booting from the CD when that choice reappears. Setup will just keep on going as though it was doing a new install. Your Files, folders, applications and settings will remain as they were before you pressed the R choice.

    When done, your Device Manager should be updated along with your Windows Software, and hopefully, your USB will work normally... as Windows will replace the old setup of the Universal Serial Bus.
     
  14. Falco75

    Falco75 Newcomer, in training Topic Starter Posts: 18

    Followed your guide, it worked just as you said ti would, but ater allowing Windows to get all the way back to the desktop, plugging in my mouse had no effect, and it remained un-affected. The lights on the Targus wired and one of the Microsoft Wireless' receivers turned on, but moving the mouse had no effect whatsoever. As much as I want to simply buy a new mouse, I do not feel that it is the mouse's problem. Any other ideas?
  15. raybay

    raybay TechSpot Evangelist Posts: 10,716   +6

    If you ran a repair, and it worked, and you have no yellow or red flags in the Universal Serial Bus setion, it is NOT DRIVERS.
    Most other hardware issues will show up as flags for "inoperative."
    Either the socket is damaged in an undetectable way, or the mouse is bad.
    What other USB mice have you tried.
    I am cynical because we have seen so many failed Targus mouse devices in our shop.

    It COULD be a security Software Issue... firewalls such as Zone Alarm, Kerio, Sun Belt, and Comodo will cause this problem when in combination with other Microsoft updates and other software. I would temporarily disable all security software and firewalls long enough to reboot and test...
    Then I would consider other installed devices interferring.

    Beyond that, I am at a loss except that It is pretty certain it is not drivers, unless Targus has special drivers for that model.
  16. Falco75

    Falco75 Newcomer, in training Topic Starter Posts: 18

    I've used 3 wireless Microsoft mouses, (mice?) but none of them work.

    The first is a Notebook Wireless Laser Mouse 6000 where the receiver lights onto a solid green light, but the laser on the mouse won't come on, nor is there any signs that the mouse is alive, even after replacing the battery.

    The second mouse won't light up or anything, after putting in a new battery and using every combination of pressed "Sync" buttons imaginable, I haven't gotten anyhting out of it.

    The last has the receiver blinking green whenever I press it, but it stops after one blink unless I hold it down, where it blinks continually, but I am unable to get it to sync to the mouse. This mouse I use on my desktop currently without any problem, and it syncs after pressing the buttons once, no trouble at all.

    There are links in the first post to the mice webpages to see specifics, but there isn't much else to know.
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