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Water pumps
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#1
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Water pumps
I'm not yet buying one, but I'm building one for a friend.
I heard that submerged pumps are alot quieter than unsubmerged ones. Is this true? If it is, why aren't there many submerged ones in the market? The majority I found are unsubmerged pumps. Going to the fish shop, I found plenty of submerged ones, but they're 240V.... Any ideas? |
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#2
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i have the L30 unsubmerged pump and its completly silent..i wouldn't worry to much about getting it submerged
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#3
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what's wrong with 240V??
I use a submerged pump for mine and it is 120VAC (US, obviously yours in AUS is 240VAC). 12V pumps are usually alot more expensive than 120/240V pumps. I modified my PSU and added an AC outlet inside my case for the pump, but I used to simply run the AC cord through an empty PCI slot and that worked fine. |
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#4
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running AC cords through a PCI slot seems kinda.... messy. Not to mention I lose the option of switching the pump automatically at startup.
I get it that its pretty silent, but given that I've got 3 computers to deal with, the combined sound might still be irritating. As it is, my computer room sounds like a factory. Is it louder than a good PSU? If its softer, I won't worry about submerging pumps then. |
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#5
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Quote:
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But if you really want to turn it on and off with the PC you can buy a relay card. these cost about $10-$20 USD and will automatically switch the pump on and off with the PC. or you could simply add a switch to your case somewhere, just remember to turn it on before you turn on your PC.. lol |
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#6
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A relay ehh?? Kinda good idea, but it still doesn't solve the 240V stuff. I suppose I can mod the PSU to gimme a 240V supply. Not sure if I should be playing with those kinds of power, so far all my modding is restricted to the 12V and 5V lines... |
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#7
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you plug the pump into the relay card, the relay card has it's own 240V power cord, you also plug the PSU's 12V molex into it. The relay is a magnetic switch. when your psu is on and 12v is applied to the relay card, it "flips the 240VAC switch" and turns the 240V pump on. when you turn the PC off, the 12V is cut and the "240VAC switch is flipped back" to off. funny that with the way you described the tangled mess of wires behind your computer, you were worried about 1 wire making it messy?? haha ![]() |
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#8
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I'm worried given that there's no sound from the pump, I can accidentally disconnect it and blow my PC.
And besides, I don't need extra wires. I would've gone wireless if I had confidence in the tech. Still on my trusty ole MX500, and standard logitech keyboard. Edit: My 400th post Last edited by CMH; 04-24-2006 at 11:36 PM.. |
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#9
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you wouldn't "blow" the PC, if for some reason you shut it off or disconnected it... your CPU would heat up and the mobo would shut the system down before any damage occurs.
The same thing would happen if a fan on a heat sink stopped spinning, it wouldn't be the death of your PC, so don't worry about it. |
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#10
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Not too worried about it, but I'd like to have a fool proof system.
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#11
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it would be just as "foolproof" as a 12v pump. just tryin to give u some cheaper alternatives...
it's really not worth water cooling unless you can build it cheaply, IMO. |
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#12
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I dunno, I went to an enthusiast shop's site, and the best watercooling stuff all up will cost me AUD$600. That doesn't even include TECs, but I'm sure I can add that in for an extra 100.
But as I said, I was talking best. I don't think a 200+W TEC will be sufficient. I'm more comfortable with 300W or more, but this shop doesn't have them. But I configured this: CPU: Swiftech Storm (129) GPU: Swiftech MCW60 (99) NB: Swiftech MCW30 (49.5) Pump: Swiftech MCP655 (139) Coolant: CoolerMaster Thermal Conductivity Fluid (22) All up: 438.5. Of course I can save some money if I went for some cheaper parts, but when I looked up google for reviews, these are the best I can lay my hands on. Lowest temps I can find. If I wanted the Swiftech Apogee CPU block instead, I'll save myself some money, but CPU temp goes up 2C (according to one review article). But that one's still alot better than anything Tt comes up with. |
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#13
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Took some time reading up on DIY waterblocks.
DIY waterblocks are the way to go if you're after high end performance. And don't forget, also if you're a handyman with a workshop filled with metalwork tools. Not to mention the performance comes with the waterblock design. Unfortunately, I have no such experience/equipment, so I think I'll have to forgo that even if I really wanted to do it. |
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#14
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Quote:
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#15
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Looks like its quiet enough being submerged (plus I read that output water temps actually rise more from submerged pumps) so I'll just go with the unsubmerged ones.
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#16
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all electric motors generate heat, an inline (un-submerged) pump will generate heat as well and the water going through the pump will carry some of that heat off in the same way that a submerged pump will. again, the heat generated by any pump is very minor compared to the heat generated by the CPU/GPU/etc. Last edited by KingCody; 04-25-2006 at 02:06 PM.. |
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#17
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Either way, it is so much harder to get my hands on a submerged pump, so I couldn't be bothered.
Anyone with experience with aquarium pumps? How do they fare in relation to flow rate and water height (or whatever the technical jargon is for it)? |
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#18
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Most aquatic pumps are rated by model number. Model 2=200gph Model 7=700gph etc. There is not much size difference between MOdel 2 and Model 7. |
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#19
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I use this pump in my system. it can pump up to 156 G/h with a max head of 46 inches (much higher than my PC case goes... lol) |
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#20
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Well if the pump is rated for 156gph, its most likely not going to put that out. Cheap pumps are rated a 0 head, so as soon as the head is increased the flow rate drops way down.
The pumps we use can be both submersible and non. An example can be found here I think they may be a bit too expensive however. We have smaller ones, but i cant seem to find them on the site. If i do, i will repost. |
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Dropped yp-t9 in water