1. TechSpot is dedicated to computer enthusiasts and power users. Ask a question and give support. Join the community here.
    TechSpot is dedicated to computer enthusiasts and power users.
    Ask a question and give support.
    Join the community here, it only takes a minute.
    Dismiss Notice

Adapter Refresh Rate

By HarleyQuinn ยท 15 replies
Aug 21, 2005
  1. Hey Everyone,

    I'm having problems with my monitor having scanlines across the top of it and I was going to try something out with the adapter refresh rate settings. I'm hoping it'll make the scanlines go away. However, when I tried changing the rate to 60Hz I get a warning that says something along the lines of if I change the rate it might cause my monitor to not work properly or to cause something to go very wrong. It also said to only change it if you knew what Hz my adapter/monitor was compatible with. How do I find out which settings I can adjust it to? Right now it's set to Optimal. Thank you in advance.
  2. urbandragon

    urbandragon TS Rookie Posts: 231

    If your monitor is a standard CRT monitor it should run on 60 hz without a problem.

    When you say it has "scanlines" across the top? does your monitor have a slightly bright look to it. are these lines say small red or green lines that apear to be about the same distance apart from each other, probably about 1/4 inch.

    if so your "backlight" brightness for a lack of better terms is set way to high and thats your problem, I dont recommend doing this but you can adjust your brightness by removing the case on it and you will have a POT, variable resistor, actually you will have up to possibly 10 depending on what type/model the monitor is, you will be able to adjust these with a screwdriver. You can play around with them to find which one is the correct one, but for a non technical person, and for most that are avid pc modders I still do not recommend doing this... if you touch the flyback,(produces above 150k voltes depending on make/model can lay an ***** whipping you.
  3. HarleyQuinn

    HarleyQuinn TS Rookie Topic Starter

    The scanlines are small/thin lines that go all the way across the monitor, but gradually they get slightly shorter. They are spaced evenly apart at as you said about 1/4". However, they're not red nor green. It's acually just a lighter shade of whatever color is behind it on the desktop. Also, it appears to be a brighter color on the right hand side as opposed to the left side. So, it gradually fades to where you can barely see it, but it's still visible on the left. The scanlines take up about an inch on my monitor. Sometimes when I turn the computer off and then I turn it back on after a period of time there are more scanlines than what there were when I turned off the PC. The scanlines overtime go back to only taking up an inch from the top of my monitor, however. Also, when viewing the site right now in the top right hand corner where the x is and the minimize button and all, I can only see half of that. I can't see what it says at the top where a title for the site would go and it says "title - Microsoft Internet Explorer". Something like that. I'd give you a better example, but I can't see it. It's black at the top. This might have something to do with my display settings, but I don't know. One more thing to is that I've noticed that the scanlines are not visible on black backgrounds. That's as much detail as I can give about them, I hope this helps somewhat.

    Also, I wanted to add that when I use my monitor settings it says:
    H: 68.7k
    V: 85Hz
    Not sure if that will be of any help or not.
  4. nein

    nein Banned Posts: 109

    You're exceeding the bandwidth of your monitor, try dropping V = 85Hz down to V = 75Hz which would reduce the bandwidth demand on your monitor by 12%, or V = 60Hz which would be 30% less.
  5. urbandragon

    urbandragon TS Rookie Posts: 231

    I am willing to bet you see these same symptoms in bios as well, which would rule out any software settings.

    You said that you do not see the lines on a black background, does the black background look brighter than it should?
    Simply put your monitor has had it. Put your desktop on a white background and let it set for a couple min. then hit the power button, you will probably see a flash of light in the center of the screen, (we call this a halo burn).. If you do not see it, chances are its not to far away from happening, this will cause a black dot to form in the center of your monitor where the gas in the tube has permenantly burned the gas onto the screen.....

    what you are describing is a monitor that is warming up her vocals to start singing...
  6. nein

    nein Banned Posts: 109

    Can you do me a favor and not mixing fictions into your facts while you help another? I have enough difficulty myself making facts not sounding like fictions already, when you do that the ignorant people tended get confused and starting to rely upon belief (blind faith no brain needed) instead. For example...

    There is no flyback in the monitor that can produce above 150KV, the electron beam which had 150KV of energy behind it isn't just an electron beam.

    It's an xray beam generator which shoots through the leaded glass in your monitor, right through your face, passes through your skull, and punches through all the walls behind you, after 3 miles or so the beam would be heading directly into space.
  7. AtK SpAdE

    AtK SpAdE TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 1,495

    Im pretty sure that flyback or LOPT (i cant reallyt remeber what that means lol) put out 10 or 15 kilovolts. At least for a standard color according to my old A+ book. Either way, if you lift the little suction cup, it will mess you up.
  8. urbandragon

    urbandragon TS Rookie Posts: 231

    I am sorry if my fiction seems inaccurate.... But back when i was working on monitors professionaly. yes i said that professionally, I refurbished gateway monitors by replacing defective components in them for resale by gateway.

    I do know what i am talking about. I may have mis stated the actual voltage out, you are correct in saying they are closer to 20-30k voltes ( thanks AtK SpAdE for clearing that up, it has been since 98 since i have actually worked on one.)
    for the uninformed here is a url to some info on the flyback/LOPT(line output transformer) transformer

    Also not the warning label at the bottom of that page please.... i was mearly stating that the flyback is high voltage and can cause major problems to any one trying to play inside a monitor that touches the wrong thing....

    knock you back. I have seen it happen to friends where i used to work. A friend was off for several days due to this.
  9. urbandragon

    urbandragon TS Rookie Posts: 231

    I am sorry that you think anything i stated was fiction, unfortunately none of what i said was fiction, i did however overstate the true voltages but none the less, 20-30 thousand voltes is still enough voltage to be harmful especially to someone that doesn't respect it.

    And please explain what the heck you are talking about by xray beam and shooting some beam 3 miles into space??? i dont understand where that came from and even what your intention of stating that was for????????
  10. nein

    nein Banned Posts: 109

    Most people don't know an Xray-Tube and a Cathode-Ray-Tube used the same technology, the main difference is in the amount energy behind the electron beam.

    About 45KV or so the CRT begins to funtion as an excellent low energy Xray-Tube.
    150KV generate hi-energy (very very hard xray) beam which goes through nearly anything.
  11. HarleyQuinn

    HarleyQuinn TS Rookie Topic Starter

    I was worried about changing it because when I went to change the settings the other night it gave me that warning about it messing up the monitor, and even though I'm sure my monitor has already had it, I wouldn't like it to get messed up any further. I REALLY need my monitor, lol. So, my main question was how do I know if my monitor will work with the refresh rate and not mess my monitor up? Thank you, btw.
  12. nein

    nein Banned Posts: 109

    The problem is your monitor getting old.

    When monitors are getting old the only thing really messed them up is the cathode filament getting harden by aging. The filament is what supplying the electrons to the electron guns, as it hardens it provided less and less electrons than as it was when new, the effect is exactly the same as an incandescent light bulb getting aged and became dimmer over time (the cathode filament bulb and the incandescent bulb are made exactly the same way).

    It is the final result in the reduction of the total bandwidth of your display monitor, to compensate for this you need to reduce your output bandwidth usage.

    For example, instead of 1024x768 @85Hz you can switch to 1024x768 @60Hz, this will let the electron beam sweeping across your display monitor more slowly, increasing the number of electrons over the same coverage area by a longer period of time (60Hz) instead of briefly (85Hz).

    The same electron quantity over same area for longer period of time improvement became even greater at 800x600 @60Hz.

    But remember to use the auto calibrate function if such was available every time after you lower the timing demand, it will let the monitor match the display quality to the maximum bandwidth available per setting.
    You can always reduce the bandwidth usage, its the increment which causes problem.
  13. HarleyQuinn

    HarleyQuinn TS Rookie Topic Starter

    What would you consider old for a monitor? I bought this one back in January of this year because I was having problems with my really old (5 year old monitor) not wanting to turn on. So, that is why I bought this one. It's about 7months old, is that bad?

    Wee, ok, I wish I knew as much about this as you, but, what's auto calibrate function? lol Sorry, I'm learning. From what I get the bandwidth usage is the problem and all, but still if I do change the v=85Hz to v=75Hz and use it with my resolution I want to know if it will cause my monitor to just completely shut off and not work. Because right now it is at least working and I don't want to make the problem worse. So, that's my concern because I really can't buy a new monitor right now.
  14. nein

    nein Banned Posts: 109

    All filament bulbs have a fixed life time of usage, if you don't turn on your light bulb much at all then it lasts much longer, typically they are rated by hours of usage.

    Your display model could be on 24/7 for 2 years straight before you bought it.

    Different models by different manufacturers varied in the life time, some Sony models were really bad about it because they are not interested in super long life monitors, the built-in auto calibrate function each time they were turn on were extremely abusive of the filament bulbs. Those particular models always died roughly within 2 years of usage as oppose to TVs (they also have filament bulbs) which some lasted more than 30 years.
    Light effective funtion to the human eyes is logarithmic, you needed to change the timing value by a bigger percentage at a time, like at least 25% less as an example. But as you go down in numbers, you are less and less abusive to your beloved monitor. :D

    The auto calibrate functions (brightness/contrast) usually are within the monitor menus.
  15. HarleyQuinn

    HarleyQuinn TS Rookie Topic Starter

    Oh, I see. The thing about this monitor was that it was the last of this model of monitors at the place I bought it from and it was a display. So, they probably kept it running a lot longer than what it would normally be running. So, that is more than likely the reason for it. I think I'm just going to have to buy a new monitor whenever I get the money. I did switch it to 75 but it caused more scanlines and then when I put it to 60Hz it hurt my eyes so I couldn't keep it there and 85Hz just looked better for some reason lol. So, I'll just keep it the way it is and hopefully get a new monitor some time soon. Thank you everyone.
  16. nein

    nein Banned Posts: 109

    That meant it did work but you didn't do the calibration for the setting, more electrons over the same area made them brighter.

    Everytime you lower the value you re do the brightness/contrast calibration.
Topic Status:
Not open for further replies.

Similar Topics

Add New Comment

You need to be a member to leave a comment. Join thousands of tech enthusiasts and participate.
TechSpot Account You may also...