No Video, No Beep, NADA

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Cougar125

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Ok. I'm new here and this is the thread to my "noob" post.
https://www.techspot.com/vb/showthread.php?p=338578#post338578

This is my problem. I put the new machine together. I've got a RS400-A motherboard with an Intel Celeron D 775 pin CPU. It has 512 Mb DDR2 533Mhz Memory and 80Gb HD. Dual Layer DVD writer.
I put it all together and I have no system beeps and no display on the monitor. I checked all the jumpers, and even tried resetting the bios using the jumper suggestion in the little book that came with it and then tried pulling the battery on the board. No luck. I haven't been able to find anything regarding this problem on the manufacturers website so I decided to try my luck here. Any help with this problem would be appreciated. I can give more info, but don't really know what y'all would need to help out. Thanks.
 
Yup. tried a 20 pin connect...a 24 pin connect...a 20 pin connect with an adapter...neither seemed to work...
 
Everything isn't ruled out yet.

* Did you put the brass motherboard spacers/offsets in when installing the motherboard. This keeps it from shorting out.
* Do you get any indication of power to the board at all?
* Did you for sure put the case switch on the right 2 pins on the motherboard? Have you checked online to be sure? I once had an Asus board that the motherboard manual was incorrect on the pins, I got the right ones by sticking a screwdriver in there and shorting pins in that area until it started.
* Is your video card for sure seated properly? Recently I put together a system and had the vid card in place and the screw on its plate screwed into the motherboard. But I had to repaste the cpu and when I put the heatsink back on pushing on it pushed the motherboard down a bit, and the vid card became unseated. When turning on the comp, fans would spin up but no Beeps and no video.
 
Just to add a little to SNGX1275's post. I once came across a brand new pc case where one of the wires was broken away from the back of the power switch, I've also seen it since on a refurbed pc too!!!!

I have also seen spacers fitted in the wrong place shorting pins on the back of a mobo!!!
 
SNGX1275 said:
Everything isn't ruled out yet.
* Did you put the brass motherboard spacers/offsets in when installing the motherboard. This keeps it from shorting out.
* Do you get any indication of power to the board at all?
* Did you for sure put the case switch on the right 2 pins on the motherboard? Have you checked online to be sure? I once had an Asus board that the motherboard manual was incorrect on the pins, I got the right ones by sticking a screwdriver in there and shorting pins in that area until it started.
* Is your video card for sure seated properly? Recently I put together a system and had the vid card in place and the screw on its plate screwed into the motherboard. But I had to repaste the cpu and when I put the heatsink back on pushing on it pushed the motherboard down a bit, and the vid card became unseated. When turning on the comp, fans would spin up but no Beeps and no video.
rik said:
Just to add a little to SNGX1275's post. I once came across a brand new pc case where one of the wires was broken away from the back of the power switch, I've also seen it since on a refurbed pc too!!!!

I have also seen spacers fitted in the wrong place shorting pins on the back of a mobo!!!
Ahem, looks like I got ahead of myself a little. Yeah, those are potential reasons too.
 
My own little problem

Hello, I'm new to this forum and in no way an experienced system builder. I build my last computer about 21/2 yrs ago and it's giving trouble now.

Here's the specs: ASUS P4PE, 1 Gb RAM (2x256) Kingston, ATI 9500 Pro, Turtlebeach Montego, DVD ROM, DVD R/W, 120GB HD, 40GB HD.

Last Sunday while I was using it, a noise came from inside and computer shut down. I opened it and determined that the psu (Powerup 350W) was gone. I bought new psu (demon 480W) and installed it yesterday. The green light on mobo is on.

Note: there's a difference between psu and mobo connectors. PSU is 24 pins while mobo is 20 pins. I was still able to connect them though.

When I try to switch the computer on nothing happens. Actually the fans start working for a split second and then everything shuts down. There are no POST beeps!!

Would you have any suggestions? I'm leaning towards a smoked mobo and/or CPU. I'm just trying to avoid buying new stuff when not needed.

Any help is appreaciated.

Thanks!
 
Plugging a 24 way connector into a 20 way socket is a disastrous idea!!!! You may well have fried everything!!! You are supposed to buy an adapter to go between them.
 
rik said:
Plugging a 24 way connector into a 20 way socket is a disastrous idea!!!! You may well have fried everything!!! You are supposed to buy an adapter to go between them.

rik, I agree with you that I may have toasted this mobo, but, on the other hand, why am I still seeing the green led light on the mobo? I would think that no light whatsoever should be on. Anyway, I'm already looking into getting other mobo/cpu.

Thanks for your response! :)
 
Most (all?) new PSU's come with a 24 with 4 that can be broken off so you can use the 20. The little plastic pin surroundings also are either box shaped or D shaped, so it can only go in one way. So unless he shaved the Boxed ends to be a D he put it in properly. The voltages on the first 20 of the 24 are the same I would think, otherwise you couldn't break off the last 4 to use.
 
The green led on the mobo means that you have +5volt standby, thats all.

It could easily be that the 5volt standby wat the only connection that lined up correctly.
 
SNGX1275 said:
Most (all?) new PSU's come with a 24 with 4 that can be broken off so you can use the 20. The little plastic pin surroundings also are either box shaped or D shaped, so it can only go in one way. So unless he shaved the Boxed ends to be a D he put it in properly. The voltages on the first 20 of the 24 are the same I would think, otherwise you couldn't break off the last 4 to use.

That's what I thought, SNGX1275. I didn't break those off though. Maybe that's a mistake.

Another question to everyone in here: how can I know for sure that the mobo is dead? Is there any easy way of finding this out?

Thanks!
 
How did you manage to use a 24 in a 20 then? I'm still pretty certain the 20 pins are the same voltage on the 20 and the 24. The part that breaks off is on the right side (if you count the clip as the top), so if you hung the left side over the plug then you probably screwed something up. But if the attach clip lined up then you didn't.

Unfortunately determining if a motherboard is bad is the hardest thing to test. You pretty much need to swap every component, or verify in another system that every component is fine.
 
SNGX1275 said:
How did you manage to use a 24 in a 20 then? I'm still pretty certain the 20 pins are the same voltage on the 20 and the 24. The part that breaks off is on the right side (if you count the clip as the top), so if you hung the left side over the plug then you probably screwed something up. But if the attach clip lined up then you didn't.

It didn't take much effort to use the 24 pin in there. :knock: The two extra pairs are just "hanging" on the side. They're not touching the board though.

Thanks for your help. I'll have this computer checked in a shop before I decide to buy the new mobo/cpu.
 
SNGX1275 said:
* Did you put the brass motherboard spacers/offsets in when installing the motherboard. This keeps it from shorting out.
* Do you get any indication of power to the board at all?
* Did you for sure put the case switch on the right 2 pins on the motherboard? Have you checked online to be sure? I once had an Asus board that the motherboard manual was incorrect on the pins, I got the right ones by sticking a screwdriver in there and shorting pins in that area until it started.
* Is your video card for sure seated properly? Recently I put together a system and had the vid card in place and the screw on its plate screwed into the motherboard. But I had to repaste the cpu and when I put the heatsink back on pushing on it pushed the motherboard down a bit, and the vid card became unseated. When turning on the comp, fans would spin up but no Beeps and no video.
1) Spacers/offsets are in place. In no place does the mobo contacts/solder points touch the case.
2) CPU fan and all lights turn on. Is there something else I should be looking for?
3) Double checked the manual and called their tech support...they are in the right place.
4) On-board video.
 
Here is the reply from Tech Support:
ECSUSA Technical Support said:
Dear Valued Customer:



Please refer to the following for the troubleshooting steps.

*** NO POST TROUBLE SHOOT STEPS ***


1. Make sure your CMOS jumper is set to normal position. Clear the CMOS using the jumper first thing you got the board.
Please refer to the user's guide for confirmation on correct jumper position.
** For more BIOS information please go to
http://www.ecsusa.com/support/BIOS.html



** How to clear CMOS
To Clear the CMOS memory, disconnect main power cable from the back of the case then move the plastic jumper cap to clear pin position. Leave it there for 20 seconds then move the jumper cap back to original position. For detail jumper position please refer to your user's guide.



2. A grounding problem could cause the system not to boot. Test the board outside the case free from touching any conductive surfaces.
* Also I suggest that you try reseating all the components( CPU, RAM, POWER SUPPLY) properly into the slots or try another known good components to isolate the problem


3. If your motherboard is using jumpers to set CPU frequency makes sure they are set correctly.

AMD CPU: 100MHz =200MHz FSB,
133MHz = 266MHz FSB, 166MHz = 333MHZ FSB and 200MHz =400MHz FSB. Intel
CPU: 100MHz =400MHz FSB, 133MHZ = 533MHZ FSB and 200MHz = 800MHz. By default,
all boards are set to 100MHz.



4. Check all the power cables and CPU heat sink ensure they are connected correctly.



5. Video card position: ensure your motherboard is aligned correctly with the case.
if your video card is not aligned with the back panel it will cause the system not to post.
Test the video card without using the screws to tight it first.



6. Check your CPU's fan ensures it is under 3watts and connected to the CPU fan header.
*** Try setup the system outside the case
with known working CPU, minimum pieces of memory, power supply, and VGA card.
To turn on the power use a screwdriver connects the two Power pins momentarily. This will turn on the power for the motherboard.
under the motherboard please use non-conductive materials such as the cardboard box that came with the motherboard.
This will help you determine if the motherboard is having grounding issues when you put it in the case.



7. For power supply, some K7, K8, and P4 motherboard may require power supply with an additional 12 volt square connector connected to the motherboard for the system to POST. Please refer to the product specification or manual of the motherboard at www.ecsusa.com for detail information.



8. Make sure you have the right power supply. In many cases the power supply is what causes the computer to be unstable, especially in systems where you're running Athlon or Intel P4 processors. The Athlon processor or Intel P4 in conjunction with a high-end graphics card and a high-powered CPU cooling fan, can really task the output of the power supply. Based on our tests we recommend using a 350-400W-power supply. More importantly we recommend the output to be:
a. 28A at +3.3V
b. 30A at +5V
c. 15A at +12V



Please note that a faulty power supply could damage your CPU, motherboard, memory or any components that's connected with the power supply directly.
A low quality power supply may cause your hardware in the system to degrade faster.



** If you have verified the CPU, memory, power supply, and video card to be working on another motherboard, then your motherboard maybe DOA or having compatibility issues with memory and video card.
9. For the memories please make sure that you are using non-ecc, unbuffered, un-register and regular density type of memory. Next, please make sure all your memory modules are of the same brand, type, and size. Having an assortment of memory may cause capability issues that can lock up your system.
Most memory manufactures will test motherboards with their memory modules.
The list below is some manufactures that test the memory with motherboards



Please visit the website below for compatible memory:I suggest that you try reseating these components properly into the slots or try another known good components to isolate the problem
http://www.cmtlabs.com/
http://www.crucial.com/
http://www.buffalotech.com/memory/list.pl?mod=1612&manuf=1612
http://www.mushkin.com/epages/Mushk...40018d4002740c0a801020607/Product/View/990881
http://www.kingston.com/
http://www.ocztechnology.com/support/motherboard/



*** If you feel the need to RMA the board, please contact your vendor for replacement board. If your warranty with your vendor has expired, please contact ECS RMA department.



For repair services for motherboard, please call the RMA Department at 510 226-7333 option 5 from 9-5:30 PM PT M-F. This line is a voice mail system and you are required to leave a voice mail in order for someone to return your call.
It is very important that you speak very clearly and slowly when leaving your full name, product model, and contact telephone number to avoid any discrepancies.
Or Send Email at rmaservice@ecsusa.com



~ Please include Case # or prior correspondence in your emails ~

Note: We are not responsible for any BIOS flash failure. Flash BIOS at your own risk.

(The case# could be found on the subject line of this email)



Thank you for using ECS products


ECSUSA Technical Support
 
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