What's a good amp for sub?

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conradguerrero

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I have a MTX 12" thunder 8000 subwoofer laying around and I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good amplifier?

The sub runs up to 1000w but all I need is around 500w.


:)
 
I have an MTX rated for about 450, and it pushes my 2 12"s with no problem. Acutally it pushes them quite well. I am unsure of the model # of my amp, because my cousin just gave it to me, but it is a good one. If you want me to find it out, I will.

Are you going to buy it outright, or otherwise? My amp costs about 400 new, but I'm sure it can be found for cheaper than that online somewhere. Let me know, and I'll do a littl research on it.
 
I know MTX makes car amps but I was actually thinking about hooking up the 12 to my dvd/pc/ps2/vhs. You see my car burnt my first sub but it was still under warranty. Now that the year warranty is over I don't want to put the sub back in there and break it. I paid around $250 for it.

I still have the mono car amp I used with the sub ... maybe there's some kind of converter (from 12volt)?

All of the 'cheap' home audio receivers I saw already had a little sub or a weak power output. I'm looking for some raw power output to shake my neighboors up.
:D
 
The only problem I see you having is with impedance. Most car speakers are rated at 4 Ohms, but many home systems are 8 Ohms. To compensate, you can use a 4 Ohm resistor in parallel to bring the equipment to 4 Ohms, or a 4 Ohm resistor in series to make the speaker 8 Ohms.
Check the impedance of the speaker and the equipment before connecting it to be sure.
 
The speaker is 4 ohm and I only have one so either I will have to use the exisiting sub amp I have or get a 4 ohm reciever or just buy a computer speaker set.

How do you hook up a car amplifier to your house electical system?

Maybe with an electric train controller set to 12 volts?
 
No you can go to an electronics shop and get some kind of an electric converter, my brother has done this, I'll ask him, and tell you exactly what you need later on. Oh and I dont believe a train controller would be a good thing due to the fact of its changable current, you might accidentaly turn it up to high and then have to plan a funeral for the amp:dead:
 
It's called a Regulated Power Supply, its a little box that plugs in the wall, and has a negative an positive wire out the back of it, the one I have outputs 13.8VDC, and we had an amp hooked up with it for quite some time, no problem, however you can buy one that has a straight 12v output. You just plug it in, hook the wires to the amp...and go....:grinthumb
 
Thats a good idea Vassil. One thing you need to remember is to get a regulated PSU that is rated high enough to handle the Amp. The amp should have a power usage rating on it. The power supply should also have a maximum rating. If either only has the current rating(Amps) then simply use ExI=P (where E=12v and I=current and P=Wattage)
 
If you want to spend the money ($600), you can get a Kenwood power amp that will go down to 2 ohm's. There might be others cheaper, but this is the only one I saw that was bridgeable to mono. It's 130 watts per channel or you can bridge it at 270 watts for mono and your sub. Sounds like the power converter would be way cheaper, but you might have higher distortion levels than in a home amp.

A lot of home recievers can play 4 Ohms, but you have to check the specs. Usually, though, these are the more costly ones. A lot of home speakers, Cerwin Vega for one, are rated at 6 Ohms or lower.
 
All Amps will change the impedance according to how the speakers are configured and whether you use other components in the equation. Are you sure that you aren't talking about 2 Ohm stability, which is a completely different thing.

Here is a better explanation of Amp/speaker config. impedance. I think it will be easier to understand than me trying to explain it.
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/spkrmlti.htm
 
As far a I know, as in my reciever the spec is stated as 170 watts per channel at 8 Ohms, 200 watts at 6 Ohms, I can expect to be able to use speakers rated at 6 Ohms. My speakers are rated at 4 to 8 Ohms and I don't have any problems. Ohms will vary from moment to moment depending on what you are playing. There are a lot of speakers that are rated at 4 Ohms, especially some with dual base speakers, and there are some speakers rated at 2 Ohms, although these are pretty exotic, usually ribbon or planar speakers, and need a very exotic amp to play them.

The above always subject to argument.

By the way that link was one of the best examples of speaker connection that I have seen.
 
How in the hell did you blow your first sub? I do not suggest you put a 12 in your house, as it will overpower all of your mids and highs, not to mention shake your house and annoy you to no end. If you want bass in your house, I suggest you sell that 12 and buy an 8 or if you really want, 2 8s.
 
Yeah it could very well rattle everything, the factory installed wiring burnt, that's how I blew the sub.

I like this PSU.

Here is it's specs:

Pyramid PS-52KX Regulated Adjustable Voltage, 45 AMP Power Supply. $154.99 In stock. Usually ships in 1-2 Days

Regulated Adjustable Voltage, 45 AMP Power Supply w/Current/Voltage Meters & Built-in Cooling Fan. Input: 115V AC, 60Hz, 800 Watts. Output: 12~15V DC(Adjustable). 40 AMP Constant/50 AMP Surge. LED Condition Indicators.

Perfect for Home, Shop and Hobbyist
Built-in Cooling Fan
Input: 115V AC, 60Hz, 800 Watts
Output: 12~15V DC(Adjustable)
40 AMP Constant/50 AMP Surge
Powers 12V DC Devices such as Cellular Phones, CB Radios, Scanners, HAM Radios, Autosound Systems,etc.
Screw Terminal Connectors
Crowbar Over Voltage Protection
Electronic Overload Protection w/ Auto Reset
Short Circuit & Thermal Protection
Fuse Protected
LED Condition Indicators
3 Prong Grounded AC Plug
Heavy Duty Rack Mountable Cabinet & Heatsink

I would only be using 425 watts at 14.4 volt DC for now, later though I would upgrade to a speciallty mono sub amp.

By the way, you can never have too much bass, and if I have to upgrade my mids and highs, so be it!

I appreciate everyone's posts.
 
Speakers rated at 4-8 Ohms? Do they have a jumper to change them or do they have some active component which does this? The only other thing I can figure is that maybe they are rated at 8 Ohms series and 4Ohms parallel. Please explain this because I may be missing something.
 
Go to definitvetechnology.com and look at there BP3000 speakers. They are rated "nominal 4 to 8 Ohms".

This is my last post. It might be irrelevent. I think I must be in the wrong forum.
 
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