Is my PC good for gaming?

rebelboy2318

Posts: 10   +0
Hey guys!
I am planning to build a PC, however I am on a strict budget of $1037 (that's Rs.70000) and I want to play the latest games and more. So this is my PC configuration, kindly tell me if it will be enough for now and for the next 2-3 years. Suggestions for other components are welcome. I wont be overclocking my CPU, so keep that in mind while replying to this thread. I want to play games at 1080p at high and ultra settings. Also, please suggest some good bletooth and wifi adapters for the PC

CPU- i5 6600k 3.5 ghz
GPU- Zotac GTX 1060 mini 6 GB
Cooler- Cooler Master Hyper 212X
PSU- Corsair CP-9020098-WW VS Series VS650 650 Watt
HDD- WD Blue 1 TB
Cabinet- Cooler Master Force 500
Motherboard- Asus H110M-K Micro ATX LGA 1151
Ram- Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8 GB DDR4 288-pin
 
Like I commented on another similar post recently - selecting a SSD instead of HDD will have a great impact upon computer performance.

You can set up SSD as main drive, and have plenty of space for games on that drive. SSDs just are not very expensive anymore. You can then, at your leisure, find a big, inexpensive HD for massive storage of music and video

--I am not sure why people are planning systems without a SSD as a main drive. I am not a gamer so I don't know if this is a gamer thing or not.
 
Like I commented on another similar post recently - selecting a SSD instead of HDD will have a great impact upon computer performance.

You can set up SSD as main drive, and have plenty of space for games on that drive. SSDs just are not very expensive anymore. You can then, at your leisure, find a big, inexpensive HD for massive storage of music and video

--I am not sure why people are planning systems without a SSD as a main drive. I am not a gamer so I don't know if this is a gamer thing or not.
Thanks! I will check out a good SSD and buy it for my build, could you suggest any good SSD?
 
The way I check whether components are "good:" -I look for highly rated components with a lot of ratings. At new egg, the reviews are pretty good. At ama zon, I think the crowd of people putting in reviews are less familiar with computers, and so the bad reviews can sometimes be due to "operator error."

So, look for an SSD with good reviews, and a lot of reviews. There are some with dozens, and hundreds.

Also, look at the read and write speeds - most are very similar, but some times this will show you why one SSD is really more expensive or inexpensive.

For the most part, I have been using Kingston SSDNow. They are at a good spot between good price and great reliability.

For s second drive, you can use any old drive. You can pull one from an old computer you or someone else has given up on.

If you do, a great option is to reformat the entire drive - this will take a long time - could take a few hours. This will wipe out any hidden sectors and will ensure the computer does not ever see an old operating system on that second drive and think it is the current op system.

Commercial//branded computer hard drives- like lets say you pulled a hard drive from an old Dell or Compaq - a lot of times they are very difficult or impossible to reformat because there are safeguarded hidden sectors that allow a tech to always be able to use some unseen saved re-setting programs and utilities, and the reformat will not be allowed to rewrite/reformat that section.
 
The way I check whether components are "good:" -I look for highly rated components with a lot of ratings. At new egg, the reviews are pretty good. At ama zon, I think the crowd of people putting in reviews are less familiar with computers, and so the bad reviews can sometimes be due to "operator error."

So, look for an SSD with good reviews, and a lot of reviews. There are some with dozens, and hundreds.

Also, look at the read and write speeds - most are very similar, but some times this will show you why one SSD is really more expensive or inexpensive.

For the most part, I have been using Kingston SSDNow. They are at a good spot between good price and great reliability.

For s second drive, you can use any old drive. You can pull one from an old computer you or someone else has given up on.

If you do, a great option is to reformat the entire drive - this will take a long time - could take a few hours. This will wipe out any hidden sectors and will ensure the computer does not ever see an old operating system on that second drive and think it is the current op system.

Commercial//branded computer hard drives- like lets say you pulled a hard drive from an old Dell or Compaq - a lot of times they are very difficult or impossible to reformat because there are safeguarded hidden sectors that allow a tech to always be able to use some unseen saved re-setting programs and utilities, and the reformat will not be allowed to rewrite/reformat that section.
The way I check whether components are "good:" -I look for highly rated components with a lot of ratings. At new egg, the reviews are pretty good. At ama zon, I think the crowd of people putting in reviews are less familiar with computers, and so the bad reviews can sometimes be due to "operator error."

So, look for an SSD with good reviews, and a lot of reviews. There are some with dozens, and hundreds.

Also, look at the read and write speeds - most are very similar, but some times this will show you why one SSD is really more expensive or inexpensive.

For the most part, I have been using Kingston SSDNow. They are at a good spot between good price and great reliability.

For s second drive, you can use any old drive. You can pull one from an old computer you or someone else has given up on.

If you do, a great option is to reformat the entire drive - this will take a long time - could take a few hours. This will wipe out any hidden sectors and will ensure the computer does not ever see an old operating system on that second drive and think it is the current op system.

Commercial//branded computer hard drives- like lets say you pulled a hard drive from an old Dell or Compaq - a lot of times they are very difficult or impossible to reformat because there are safeguarded hidden sectors that allow a tech to always be able to use some unseen saved re-setting programs and utilities, and the reformat will not be allowed to rewrite/reformat that section.
Thanks! I am new at this, so I don't know much, sure I will work according to what you suggest and try finding a SSD suitable to my needs. ☺️☺️
 
Just by looking quickly, that RAM seems expensive.
Get the correct type, but, again, simply find RAM with good reviews.
Unless there is something I don't know.
 
Just by looking quickly, that RAM seems expensive.
Get the correct type, but, again, simply find RAM with good reviews.
Unless there is something I don't know.
I am getting that RAM because it is has a great speed and also it's DDR4, I could have gone for G. Skill Ripjaws but it's overpriced. But with all regards, I will look for other RAMs on new egg and amazon too
 
If you want to see where to drop the cost, you could look for other cases.
Any old case will work, as long as it is ATX format or micro-ATX.

Usually, the best deal is case with a good power supply. Cooler Master is a good brand.
you may need 650 watt, and it may not save money to go to 500 watt.

The main reasons to get a more expensive case are:
looks
quietness
heat dissipation.

Some people strive to build very quiet computers. This drives up the cost a lot. If the regular humm of a computer is not a problem, then you don't need "the best."
As long as you have a CPU cooler sufficient to cool the CPU, and have a case fan, and your computer is generally closed, and as long as you will not be in a really hot room, and you will not have a lot of components (like 4 hard drives in a RAID array) you really do not have to worry about air flow / heat dissipation from the case.

So, that leaves "looks." Does it look good. So, you decide if you want it to look really cool, or opt to save $20 or $30.

--Those things - RAM and case - are where I would drop overall cost, if I were you. That would make it fine to go from a $50 HD to a $60 SSD, plus maybe fit a second drive, a HDD, in the budget.
 
If you want to see where to drop the cost, you could look for other cases.
Any old case will work, as long as it is ATX format or micro-ATX.

Usually, the best deal is case with a good power supply. Cooler Master is a good brand.
you may need 650 watt, and it may not save money to go to 500 watt.

The main reasons to get a more expensive case are:
looks
quietness
heat dissipation.

Some people strive to build very quiet computers. This drives up the cost a lot. If the regular humm of a computer is not a problem, then you don't need "the best."
As long as you have a CPU cooler sufficient to cool the CPU, and have a case fan, and your computer is generally closed, and as long as you will not be in a really hot room, and you will not have a lot of components (like 4 hard drives in a RAID array) you really do not have to worry about air flow / heat dissipation from the case.

So, that leaves "looks." Does it look good. So, you decide if you want it to look really cool, or opt to save $20 or $30.

--Those things - RAM and case - are where I would drop overall cost, if I were you. That would make it fine to go from a $50 HD to a $60 SSD, plus maybe fit a second drive, a HDD, in the budget.
Looks don't matter to me, I won't be showing my setup off, I will rather spend the money on other components . As per as sound is concerned, I will be using headphones, so that won't make distract me from gaming either, though I will prefer a little quietness. So similar to you, I will rather spend the extra $10 on the SSD
 
I think that ram was expensive because it is 1.2 volts; most ram is 1.5, and getting 1.2v is like specialty ram.
It might be helpful in a low-power system, but you are not doing low power.

Theoretically, low power requires less cooling, and allows you to go to a lower wattage power supply. Less cooling need allows more creative cooling options, and so can help with a "quiet" system, and lower overall wattage means a build might get into the range of fanless cooling - like a fanless power supply.

But the difference between 1.2v and 1.5 v is negligible. Plus, you are not trying to do a low power build.

I have done 3 low power systems,, and didn't even bother with low volt ram.
 
I think that ram was expensive because it is 1.2 volts; most ram is 1.5, and getting 1.2v is like specialty ram.
It might be helpful in a low-power system, but you are not doing low power.

Theoretically, low power requires less cooling, and allows you to go to a lower wattage power supply. Less cooling need allows more creative cooling options, and so can help with a "quiet" system, and lower overall wattage means a build might get into the range of fanless cooling - like a fanless power supply.

But the difference between 1.2v and 1.5 v is negligible. Plus, you are not trying to do a low power build.

I have done 3 low power systems,, and didn't even bother with low volt ram.

Just for fun, here is the post of the low-power, all-acrylic regular PC style computer I made a while ago.
This acrylic case is not for sale anywhere anymore. Probably because it was too weak. Mine wore out and broke after about a year. I used a lot of the parts to build yet another low-power computer for my mother in law, who did not have a lot of room to add a regular tower in her work study, so I did a regular mini-itx case. Kind of sad - the acrylic was cool.

I was able to figure this out based on my years of building computers - now, I build one about every 3 years just to keep up to date, but I built my first in 1997 or so. So, good luck and keep building!

https://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pics-of-mini-itx-tiny-clear-plexi-glas-build.198033/
 
++++++++++++++
Just for fun, here is the post of the low-power, all-acrylic regular PC style computer I made a while ago.
This acrylic case is not for sale anywhere anymore. Probably because it was too weak. Mine wore out and broke after about a year. I used a lot of the parts to build yet another low-power computer for my mother in law, who did not have a lot of room to add a regular tower in her work study, so I did a regular mini-itx case. Kind of sad - the acrylic was cool.

I was able to figure this out based on my years of building computers - now, I build one about every 3 years just to keep up to date, but I built my first in 1997 or so. So, good luck and keep building!

https://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pics-of-mini-itx-tiny-clear-plexi-glas-build.198033/

Thanks for all the help!

P.S.- the build u posted is cool
 
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