New PC, are the parts compatible?

orkun1675

Posts: 8   +0
Hi everyone,

I'm gettin a new pc and I'm worried about compatibility problems. My configration is like this:

Motherboard:
Asus: P8z77-V Pro Intel Z77 Soket 1155 DDR3 2560MHz Sata 3
CPU:
Intel: Core i7 2700K Soket 1155 3.5GHz 8MB Cache 32nm
CPU Cooler:
Thermaltake: CONTAC30 LGA775/1155/1156/1366/2011 & AM2/AM2+/AMA3/...
Graphic Card:
Asus: GTX560 DirectCU II TOP GDDR5 1GB 256Bit Nvdia GeForce
Ram:
Corsair: 8GB (2x4GB) Vengeance Low Profile DDr3 1600MHz CL9
HDD:
OCZ: 120GB Vertex 3 Series Sata 3.0 SSD (Read 550MB/Write 500M
Case:
Cooler Master: HAF 912 PLUS GX 80PLUS 750W MidT ATX Black Case

(Links might not be perfectly correct, cause I didn't select the parts from newegg.)

I am wondering if these parts will work well together. Are they compatible? Will they be able to work at 100% efficieny?

Hm, and this PC is for gaming. So I can take suggestions also :)

I would really appriciate your help. Thank you!

PS: My the way, I heard that there was a cite checking the compatibility for you. You choose your cpu, ram, graphics... and it tells you if they will work at full effiency. Does anyone have an idea about that, because I can't remember the cite?
 
No idea on the site, but we can help you with compatibility anyway. :)

You've listed the GPU as a GTX 560, but the link is a GTX 560 TI -- which is different. The TI is very good, whereas the non-TI might be found wanting in some games. The build looks nice, but I think we need to know what games you would like to play, and at what resolutions. Reason for this is you might find your graphics card choice to be a little underpowered, dependent on your expectations.

Do you plan to overclock your system, or run it at standard clocks?
 
No idea on the site, but we can help you with compatibility anyway. :)

You've listed the GPU as a GTX 560, but the link is a GTX 560 TI -- which is different. The TI is very good, whereas the non-TI might be found wanting in some games. The build looks nice, but I think we need to know what games you would like to play, and at what resolutions. Reason for this is you might find your graphics card choice to be a little underpowered, dependent on your expectations.

Do you plan to overclock your system, or run it at standard clocks?

Thank you for the reply.

Is there a huge difference between gtx560 and gtx560 ti? I can upgrade the system to TI because it costs 46$. But do i need that to play, for example Battlefield 3? (By the way I want to use this pc for 3 years minumum so if the gpu isn't enough I should upgrade it.) I guess I will play at [LEFT][FONT=Trebuchet MS]1920x1200 or [/FONT][/LEFT][LEFT][FONT=Trebuchet MS]2560x1600 [/FONT][/LEFT] . Do i need to overclok? Won't this be enough to game?

I don't want a kick-*** pc but a good pc for daily use and sometimes gaming, that would be enough for 3 years.
 
You should get playble frame rates in BF3 for the most part with the GTX 560Ti. I think you should switch out the processor for a i5-2500K. The i7-2700k to me is a bit overkill just for a casual PC that does some gaming. The i5-2500k will get you pretty much the same performance for games anyway.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072
The i5 seems to save you about $110 which could go towards getting a better GPU to solidify your PC for the future.

You didn't seem to attach a link for a PSU. Make sure you get one that is of quality build. Its one of the more important parts of your build.

. Do i need to overclok? Won't this be enough to game?
You should be fine running at stock clocks. But since you did grab the aftermarket cooler, you should take a crack at it. A little more performance never hurt anyone :p
 
You should get playble frame rates in BF3 for the most part with the GTX 560Ti.

I will buy a GTX560 TI if you guys say so.

I though of getting a i5 instead but I'm worried about the future. More complex programs might requiere a better cpu then i5 in the futur. Also I'm planing to render videos (not pro but as an hobby). So I think it's worth it(?)

You didn't seem to attach a link for a PSU. Make sure you get one that is of quality build. Its one of the more important parts of your build.

The PSU comes with the case. It is 750W which is quiet a quality build i suppose. No worries about that :)
 
Jump down to a i7-2600K then, as the small premium to upgrade to the i7-2700K is not worth it if you are prepared to overclock (even mildly OC'd will be faster).

Also, just because the PSU comes with the case (even if its a reputable one) it doesn't mean it is quality -- it could of course be just that, but for peace of mind I'd like to see what case/psu combo your grabbing, if that's okay please.

Before I get into GPU framerates, it is generally accepted that in order to play games like BF3, you require a minimum average of 60 frames per second (FPS). It is subjective, and some people are comfortable with less FPS than others but you should aim for at least a 60FPS average. As an addition, BF3 is considered a good benchmark from gaming. If you can play this at good settings, it stands to reason you'll be fine with pretty much every other game.

At full HD in Battlefield 3, for high detail @1920x you need one of the following (as a minimum): HD6970, HD7970, HD6990, GTX 570, GTX 580, GTX 590. The only GPUs that break the 100FPS average barrier are either dual GPU cards (HD6990/GTX590) or running 2x GPU's in their respective CF/SLI modes.

At 2560x its even worse, as that is a whole lot of pixels for a challenging game engine like the one used for BF3. You can forget any single GPU solution, none are powerful enough at high detail. So that leaves you with a dual-GPU product like the HD6990/GTX590 or running multiple GPU's (HD6970/GTX570/GTX580).

If you do truly want to game at these resolutions with high detail then you need to spend serious money on a GPU. I would recommend at least a single GTX580/GTX680 or HD7970 as a baseline for decent gaming performance.

If you want to skimp a bit, try grabbing hold of two HD6970's, or a pair of GTX 570's, which if used, and you're lucky, should give you similar performance at less money.

A few references I used:

BF3 1920x1200 GPU performance in FPS for high quality.
BF3 2560x1600 GPU performance in FPS for high quality.
 
Also, just because the PSU comes with the case (even if its a reputable one) it doesn't mean it is quality -- it could of course be just that, but for peace of mind I'd like to see what case/psu combo your grabbing, if that's okay please.

Sorry to just jump in here, but I wanted to "second" what Leeky has said here, about accepting power supply's that come with cases. When contracted to built client computers, of course I hit Fry's Electronics and buy it there, but before client money or my own pay's for the case/power supply combo deal, I always make it a habit to really take a good look at the power supply, I first look for "name brand", if the power supply is some sort of third party knock off or from a generic company, I always then make my way to the power supply section of the store and pick a new one from a company I've heard of.

Next I take a real hard look at "power ratings", 450 watt, 500 watt, 750 watt ect. ect. ect. I always try to knock it out of the park with one swift stroke, why have my clients or myself worry if their power supply is up to snuff to handle things, I opt to just "go big" right out of the gate and buy "name brand" and a minimum of a 850 watt, preferably 1000 watts. This way there's no messing around, second guessing, or worry's about if your power supply is up to par!

But Leeky's point is quite valid, most power supply / case combo deals aren't all their cracked up to be!

"Side on the side of caution"!
 
Sorry to just jump in here, but I wanted to "second" what Leeky has said here, about accepting power supply's that come with cases. When contracted to built client computers, of course I hit Fry's Electronics and buy it there, but before client money or my own pay's for the case/power supply combo deal, I always make it a habit to really take a good look at the power supply, I first look for "name brand", if the power supply is some sort of third party knock off or from a generic company, I always then make my way to the power supply section of the store and pick a new one from a company I've heard of.

Next I take a real hard look at "power ratings", 450 watt, 500 watt, 750 watt ect. ect. ect. I always try to knock it out of the park with one swift stroke, why have my clients or myself worry if their power supply is up to snuff to handle things, I opt to just "go big" right out of the gate and buy "name brand" and a minimum of a 850 watt, preferably 1000 watts. This way there's no messing around, second guessing, or worry's about if your power supply is up to par!

But Leeky's point is quite valid, most power supply / case combo deals aren't all their cracked up to be!

"Side on the side of caution"!

Thanks for the caution. And your exactly right. The power supply is a problem.

When they told me that the case came with the PSU, I asked about the company and its specs. Well they showed me the same SPU in it's orginal pack put not in the case. I can't remember the name right now but it was quiete a good one. No worries about that. The seller I went to, took the SPU's out their packages and put them in the cases for some kind of discount. That's all its to it.

But I understand your concern and thank you. I will be more careful with the PSU. The system depends on it :)
 
It does indeed, Orkun1675.

I've had the unfortunate luck of a really good PSU failing on me, wiping out my entire hardware, including a seriously expensive 256GB Crucial SSD. So I'm definitely scrutinising every available option before parting with my hard-earned on any PSU these days.
 
Back