No signal in monitor, no mouse

[MarkvdWel]

Hello all,

Im having trouble with my pc. Few days back it took ages to start windows. I reset the pc a few times but no windows screen for login. I was able to get inside the bios screen though.

But it got worse. My monitor doest get a signal anymore. Tried hdmi and tried dvi-cables.

I put in a new mobo but same story.

I have a 970 pro3 R2.0 motherboard. 16 gb ram, geforce gtx 1070 gpu. It starts, fans are spinning, lights are on but mouse in different usb drives give no signal, other usb-hardware does light up. Keyboard for example lights up.

I also tried to start pc up with less ramsticks, but still no mouse and no signal to monitor. Its driving me crazy!

Hope you can help me...

Greetz,

Mark

 

[Cycloid Torus]

Something zonked.

No vid, but you can get into BIOS and see that ? - so it sounds like some kind of weird power thing, but is unlikely. A superficial approach is not going to work.

DO you get POST? or beep codes or other codes indicating errors?

Slow start for Windows could mean storage problem or another fouled update.

Being unable to boot seems to be a storage issue. Does BIOS see all the storage media?

Can you boot off of other media? like a flash drive with Ubuntu? Windows installation CD?

More details please - "all fans" should be GPU, CPU, PSU and case - did you check all 4?, etc - lights? like the bathroom light? "mouse in different usb drives give no signal" do you mean 'is not recognized'? [ps: try another 'known good' mouse - yours might be fried]

You are there with the machine - need to understand what you see and hear.

 

[MarkvdWel]

Thanks for your reply!

I cant get into the bios. PC starts up, but screen remains black. I tried to boot from a windows DVD, but still the same problem.

All the fans turn, tries another mouse, laserguided, when I put in the USB, tried several, it only blinks a microsecond than nothing. Tried numerous videocards, even one without powercable. Also tried to boot without my HDD's not connected to mbo. (1 ssd, two hdd's). My mobo has no lights. My GPU does and is lit. The little beeping device on the mobo is connected, but no beepcodes. I can see the HDD light flicker when I try to the pc on. But after that just the zooming noise of the fans.

Thing is on my old mobo the windows screen was asking me to be patient. But it didnt get past that. I resetted and got in bios, but now that doesnt work anymore too.

 

[Cycloid Torus]

OK, so you do have some indication of power (the PSU is not totally dead). What happens when you remove all storage, all USB connected devices and the video card .... leaving just RAM, CPU and CPU fan? - you should get 'video error' ...if nothing, then remove RAM and you should get RAM error. Otherwise, I would wonder if there is some very basic problem with power or motherboard.
We are trying to get "POST" - see article for further explanation https://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000607.htm

 

[MarkvdWel]

I think its either a problem with the powersupply or the CPU. But how do I check? With just ram, cpu and cpu fan still nothing happens. Ive measured the power with a tool and I see no voltageproblems. Ive also tried to startup with one ram-bar, two, three and then four. But still no signal. Its a pretty old CPU, though. Motherboard is new. I thought it was a broken board so bought a similar new one. Its AM3 socket. But Ive got no spare CPU to test it. Any idea how to test if a CPU is working or not?

Thanks for all the help, m8. Appreciate it!

 

[Cycloid Torus]

OK. This is very much older stuff (7 years?) and it could be almost anything.If it were mine, I would locate manual for motherboard and rebuild outside of case starting with just barebones and adding things until the bad component 'fails' when included.

In this case, I would start with a bare motherboard and confirm that both CPU and RAM are listed in the QVL (qualified vendor list). Putting CPU on, I would start by confirming that power is properly connected and that CPU fan functions and that I get an error code for bad RAM (since it isn't installed).

Examples of this kind of testing appear in several places on YouTube. Short the power pins briefly to start - unplug to stop. Be careful of static. Place board on non-conductie surface, etc.

If 'dead', it is motherboard or CPU - if QVL lists CPU for the BIOS I am running, I think it must then be motherboard is dead. If so, look carefully at motherboard under strong light for broken or brown as it could still be CPU. Only way to know which is to get the other to work with something.

I have bought cheap used ('guaranteed') on eBay to test stuff ($6 CPU, etc). Limit to QVL.

 

[MarkvdWel]

Ok

OK. This is very much older stuff (7 years?) and it could be almost anything.If it were mine, I would locate manual for motherboard and rebuild outside of case starting with just barebones and adding things until the bad component 'fails' when included.

In this case, I would start with a bare motherboard and confirm that both CPU and RAM are listed in the QVL (qualified vendor list). Putting CPU on, I would start by confirming that power is properly connected and that CPU fan functions and that I get an error code for bad RAM (since it isn't installed).

Examples of this kind of testing appear in several places on YouTube. Short the power pins briefly to start - unplug to stop. Be careful of static. Place board on non-conductie surface, etc.

If 'dead', it is motherboard or CPU - if QVL lists CPU for the BIOS I am running, I think it must then be motherboard is dead. If so, look carefully at motherboard under strong light for broken or brown as it could still be CPU. Only way to know which is to get the other to work with something.

I have bought cheap used ('guaranteed') on eBay to test stuff ($6 CPU, etc). Limit to QVL.

Ok Ill

 

[MarkvdWel]

Ok, I’ll try. Going on vacation tomorrow. Will get back once I know what the problem is. Thanks!

 

[MarkvdWel]

Hi Cycloid!

It was the processor who died. Since it was an old AMD-cpu I bought a newer I7 with a new mobo. I send the motherboard I bought back and got my money back. PC now working again, thanks!

Got one final question: is it safe to cut 4 pin connectors that take valuable space in my case? And then ‘close’ the wire with electrical tape so it wont short circuit? They are fanconnectors that are unused since its connected to the motherboard differently...

 

[Cycloid Torus]

"Measure twice, cut once."

Any kind of air gap should give ample enough insulation. This is low voltage - not like lightning at 11k v which can ionize the air. I am surprised that you need to cut and would not recommend without really good reason. If you have any kind of clearance - even a couple of mm - you should not need to cut ... or tape.

If you do cut, I would expect that you void warranty, so there is a 'cost' to doing so.

 

[MarkvdWel]

Lol, its just that I cant stand loose connectors in my rig.

 

[Cycloid Torus]

Loose connectors are good. Think of what you might attach someday...a water cooler pump, another fan, wild LEDs, the world's tiniest air conditioner, a Peltier junction, etc.