Can only load Win10 with a UEFI reset in bios

[Gary Seymour]

A fresh home tower rebuild with new MB, memory, case, and processor.
ASRock AB350 pro4 motherboard
16 Gb DDR 3000 memory
AMD Ryzen 7 2700 processor
250 G SSD
750 G and 1 T hard drives

I can only get into Win 10 pro if I 'reset UEFI defaults' in bios every time that I reboot. It took me an entire day to figure that out. Do I need to spend a day on hold with ASRock tech support to solve this issue, or is there anything that you guys could suggest that I might try?

 

[Gary Seymour]

I am still required to reset UEFI defaults every time that I do a hard 'shut down' of my desktop, but a simple 'restart' doesn't require me to go into the bios settings. Puzzles me greatly.

I also might mention that the motivation to upgrade my computer was an attempt to cure mouse and keyboard lockups that have have been driving me insane for months. I did a reinstall of Windows 10, updated all drivers, switched off all non-MS startup programs, moved boot software to a new SSD drive, and finally upgraded the motherboard, processor, and memory. However, the mouse/keyboard freezes are still plaguing me, in addition to my new boot problems. Aaaaarrrrggg!

 

[Cycloid Torus]

Mouse and keyboard lockups? does the problem go away when you use another keyboard/mouse?
PSU? what? how old? did you confirm enough wattage based on new build?
I hate modular cables - took me two weeks to realize I had a soft connection at the PSU case.
New motherboard - did you confirm CMOS jumper in correctly? check CMOS battery?
Basically, settings cannot remember where boot is unless it can save that scrap of information - a condition which can be caused by: bad battery, battery not inserted properly, bad PSU causing a power starvation, CMOS jumper set to clear, or a bad motherboard (I.e., infantile chip failure, etc)....though I guess it is possible that a short in a mouse could mess up power, etc

 

[Gary Seymour]

Tried several different mice/keyboards. It is the same power supply, EVGA 500w, but my video card (GTX 750TI) only draws 50w and the Ryzen 7 2700 only 65w. When I can afford a new video card, I'll upgrade the power supply. I haven't checked the battery since it is a new build, but will do that first thing tomorrow. CMOS jumper is in non-clear position.

Thank you for your time, I really appreciate it.

 

[Cycloid Torus]

Please confirm, you have had mouse/keyboard issues on both old and new systems and this is using several different mice and keyboards? - what is constant in this? - the PSU? anything else - 750Ti? Did you do a clean install of Win10 when you put in new mobo?

 

[Gary Seymour]

Computer left on over night, bios reports:
CPU: 35 °C
M/B: 24 °C
CPU Vcore: 1.312 V
+12 V: 12.302 V
+5 V: 4.944 V
+3.3 V: 3.392 V
My measurements with two different multimeters:
+12 V: 12.29 V
+5 V: 4.937 V
+3.3 V: 3.384 V

Coin Cell removed: 3.060 V

I've sort of resigned myself to the boot problem- might get another new motherboard next year, but for now it is not a big issue in that I use my desktop 12 hours a day, and usually just leave it running 24/7. I normally go a week or two between hard boots anyway. Pressing F9, then F10 in bios gets me fully booted every time. I'm just too lazy to go through the return/exchange process for a replacement MB right now because the mouse/kb freeze problem is way more irritating.

My recent computer upgrade was motivated out of frustration with the mouse lockup problem. That 4 note sound when you plug or unplug a mouse or keyboard starts happening randomly after awhile and a lockup usually follows shortly after I start hearing that sound. Moving the mouse to another USB port, like to the front panel, or to another rear panel port, will bring back the mouse, but eventually even moving to another USB port does not cure the lockup, and requires a re-boot. It happens with the keyboard as well, just less frequently due to my surfing habits. Seems to me to act just like a buffer over-run, but of course I am only guessing about that.

It is hard to see how a video card could relate to this issue, so I will now assume that it must be software related. Although a fresh re-install of Windows 10 on my old system, including an upgrade from HD drive to SSD, did not cure the problem, I am facing what seems like the only possibility remaining- that some software 'somewhere' is the culprit, whether it is inadvertently or intentionally causing a mouse/kb buffer over-flow.

I thank you ever so much for your help, Cycloid. I will just put up with this issue for a little while. I am old and tired, but I will eventually reinstall Win10 again, but this time onto a newly formatted drive, eliminating the possibility of the malfunctioning software hitching a free ride. Take care,

mogur

 

[Cycloid Torus]

Voltages look good. However, issue could be dynamic - with power fluctuating beyond specification. https://www.techspot.com/downloads/1237-hwinfo32.html

Also, for USBs do look at:
https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html

 

[Gary Seymour]

Wow, nice programs. The voltages reported are the same as listed in Bios, but with maximums/minimums, and way many more test points provided. I'll monitor for any unusual fluctuations. The details provided by the rest of the program, and the USB program as well, are really impressive. Thank you for sharing the links to those excellent programs.

 

[Gary Seymour]

Okay, I exaggerated a bit. When I said I tried 'several' other mice/keyboards, I only tried two other mice. One didn't work at all, and another old mouse did lock up as well, convincing me that wasn't the problem. Yesterday, I stumbled across an old Acer wireless mouse, tested its battery and tried it out. It didn't work at all in both front and rear USB 2 ports, worked intermittently in a rear USB 3 port, but seems to work fine in the front USB 3 port. My cursor hasn't frozen since, nor have I heard that dreaded random 3 tone 'unplug' sound. I don't like having my only front USB 3 port occupied, so I'll be shopping for a new mouse/keyboard.

Although the purpose of my original post was about the UEFI boot problem, I'll just live with that for now, since I hardly ever restart this computer. I will continue to seek out a possible motherboard update for that problem, but for now, thank you for spurring me on, and providing the links to those utilities (they continue to show very little power fluctuations). Many, many kudos.

 

[Cycloid Torus]

I googled on UEFI issues.. and found myself answering this before ( https://www.techspot.com/community/...-settings-every-time-I-turn-on-the-pc.228540/ ).
I now remember the issue I had with a 3v cr2032...off the mobo it registered 3.07v.. I think the battery is drawn on when you do a complete power cycle or unplug it. So the voltage apparently drops in use..and the battery is drawn on to keep the memory of your settings in place. Drop below what it needs to refresh and it forgets.Truly fresh battery should be >3.20v. If mobo is not connected to ATX trickle for a long period, a 'new' motherboard can have a drained battery.

 

[Gary Seymour]

Ordering fresh batteries and mouse/kb today. Will report back in a few days since I have to wait on delivery (island life). This crappy Acer mouse is still glitch-free, so I am ecstatic.

 

[Cycloid Torus]

Ordering fresh batteries and mouse/kb today. Will report back in a few days since I have to wait on delivery (island life). This crappy Acer mouse is still glitch-free, so I am ecstatic.

My favorite is Cuttyhunk (Massachusetts, end of Elizabeth Island group). Mail used to come over in an open boat.

 

[Gary Seymour]

I'd prefer a Bikini Atoll, but I'm on Whidbey Island, Puget Sound. Love it here, just takes a bit longer to get stuff (big box stores are 50 miles away at the other end of the island, or a half-hour ferry ride from this end). I too, love Buzzards Bay, Woods Hole, and the Elizabeth Island group.

 

[Gary Seymour]

Received one new cheap wired mouse and 4 fresh Panasonic CR2032s a few hours ago. Tomorrow should bring a nice wireless keyboard/mouse. For now I'm sticking with the tiny little Acer wireless mouse because the new wired mouse for some reason gives me a double cursor when I play Fallout. Anyway, unfortunately the fresh Panasonic battery (3.22 Volts) did not help the UEFI boot problem (rebooted at least six times), and can only get into Windows if I reset UEFI defaults on each reboot.

I thank you kindly for babysitting me, Cycloid, I am happy with my current situation. Hope to stick with this board, and maybe offer a little help if anyone has problems with a Sinclair Z80. (I'm really old, grin) Many, many.

 

[Cycloid Torus]

Last entry on this post says it is a 'fix' - 2017 no later contradiction.
https://steamcommunity.com/app/377160/discussions/0/496881136898365407/?ctp=2

 

[Gary Seymour]

That definitely fixed my double cursor problem. I had to use the new wired mouse to replicate the issue. The fix is to simply unplug the mouse, control/shift into Steam, plug the mouse back in, then control/shift out of steam. Voila. Unfortunately, that issue requires the same routine each time I re-start Fallout, but I'm not complaining. Thank you once more.

I'm receiving a nicer (primarily meaning full sized) wireless mouse/keyboard later today, and am hoping that this issue doesn't even show up since it doesn't happen at all with my current wireless mouse.

 

[Gary Seymour]

All is well with my world. The new wireless KB/mouse works perfectly. I don't have to unplug the mouse, enter Steam, then re-plug a corded mouse to avoid the double cursor in Fallout.

But the biggest boon is no more frozen cursor requiring a reboot (and therefore the UEFI reset problem). Since I usually reboot so infrequently, having to go into BIOS and hit F9/enter/F10/enter really isn't a big deal. Thank you again, Cycloid Torus, for all your help and patience.