My laptop won't turn on

By delilah.raine
Sep 23, 2008
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  1. Hey

    My Acer laptop wont turn on. It's not the newest laptop in the world, but if there's a way to fix it i would prefer that.
    When i press the on button, absolutely nothing happens, no lights turn on, and the fan doesn't turn on or anything. But the light on the charger is on, so it must be something with the computer itself.

    Help?
  2. kimsland

    kimsland Ex-TechSpotter Posts: 18,353

    Please try this (it works 50% of the time!)

    Remove the power cord and battery, from the laptop (basically just all power out)
    Hold down the ON button for 30secs (dispersing all internal voltage)
    Plug the power cord in only (I use to say PowerAdaptor, but someone asked, what's that?)
    Turn on

    Did it work?
    If so, shutdown (normally) and re-insert the laptop battery
    Turn back on
    And a way you go (hopefully!)
  3. Tedster

    Tedster Techspot old timer..... Posts: 10,067   +13

  4. lamo

    lamo Newcomer, in training Posts: 570

    kimsland, "Hold down the ON button for 30secs (dispersing all internal voltage)" ROFL :)
    where did you get this bullshit?
  5. kimsland

    kimsland Ex-TechSpotter Posts: 18,353

    lamo that comment really shows your ignorance
    Thankfully, I've had many users confirm this works (nothing else done whatsoever)
  6. tengeta

    tengeta TechSpot Enthusiast Posts: 632

    I'd actually say its logical,if things demand power when there is little remaining and no outside power coming, then it should drain whatever is still there trying to use it.
  7. kimsland

    kimsland Ex-TechSpotter Posts: 18,353

    I'm not sure exactly what you meant
    But, yes I do this everytime, before opening a computer up
    Plus it resolves some Post issues (well lots actually, hundreds!)
  8. lamo

    lamo Newcomer, in training Posts: 570

    kimsland, it works in laptops or in desktops? 3.3v on power button, and SB voltages are NOT connected each other in laptops. i suspect, that those good advice was only coinsidence. and the bullshit was: "dispersing all internal voltage" :)
  9. kimsland

    kimsland Ex-TechSpotter Posts: 18,353

    Lamo

    I've read your posts are do sound technically proficient.
    I believe I may have some similarities to you in your background (hands-on area)

    Originally fully Trade qualified as an Electrician, I then went on to work as a Technical Officer in Electronics (whilst also attending night school, to gain qualification)
    Working on Electronic circuitry wasn't enough, so I began creating my own Printed Circuit Boards (Not simple school stuff, but actual industrial Electronics)

    Due to boredom (mainly) I then got stuck into Processors, what you would now call a computer! I so I went to University and studied computers (everything!)
    Then when DOS was released (based on Unix), I couldn't believe it ! So I l really got stuck into that.

    At last Windows came on my first 286 with 4 meg of Ram, just wasn't enough to handle it. I must have spent years on my 386 until I eventually got my first 486 DX computer (with Turbo switch!)



    Now. I am telling you that dispersing internal resident Voltage, being held by capacitors, and holding up transistors, all the way up to the CPU ... DOES FIX 50% OF NO POST ISSUES

    What percentage?

    *==>50%*<==

    How do I know?

    Because I have seen this in action on PC and LAPTOP and many other electronic devices !!! Especially with Memory installed

    So you can sing out your 3.3V, or even the time that a memory cell discharges instantly on power off. But in thousands (really it's Not hundreds as politely stated) of NO POST issues, it is to do ONLY with residual resident (or whatever other terminology) Voltage held in the circuitry.

    And I have proved this Over and Over again
    Not only that, but even here on TS (in only one year) lots of users have THANKED me, just for doing this one thing. Thankfully it is documented here.

    It is not BullShit, and stating such a thing is showing stupidity (in not accepting it) and ignorance with such a person as yourself, disputing me. I find that extremely poor minded, and I'm now starting to think you really just dont know !

    By the way, I opened this thread and answered it straight away!
    I suppose I'll hear from you in a week or so ?
  10. lamo

    lamo Newcomer, in training Posts: 570

    ok. here's my practice. dismantle any laptop. arm yourself with multimeter. connect AC-adaptor. find 5v or 3.3v SB supply voltages. disconnect AC-adaptor and press power-on key. check out, while 5v and 3.3v will just fade away, but not so quickly(sometimes, it takes minute or so). i mean, that, pressing power-on button WON'T "disperse" internal supply voltages(especially SB-voltages!) for the short period of time(we're discussing internals of laptops, so we're in the Hz-time,not seconds, eh?? :)). for instance: power-on button in acer TM2410(wistron-morar) connects directly to KBC(and 3.3AUX voltage which supplies the KBC controller,of course). so tell me, how the pressing power-on button can decrease the 5v SB to zero, if they even aren't connected???? see the picture for details.

    Attached Files:

  11. lamo

    lamo Newcomer, in training Posts: 570

    the most right advice, actually, is "disconnect CMOS battery". this will erase CMOS data(and DMI too,this is more important). in sony laptops and toshiba(i mean right toshiba,not compals) this action also erases data in RAM of KBC-controller. in these laptops the KBC-controller has it's own flash which presents all the time until reflashed with special software. kimsland, i already created the thread about low-level working of laptops. this theme touches the main theme of that thread, but it seems, that nobody has interests to it. well, if you asked me in that thread about this, there'll be no such polemic words.
  12. kimsland

    kimsland Ex-TechSpotter Posts: 18,353

    I'll need the full schematic
    I was Dell Mobile Tech for 6 years

    I will find the layout and check
  13. lamo

    lamo Newcomer, in training Posts: 570

    ok. later, i'll upload it and give you the link.
     
  14. kimsland

    kimsland Ex-TechSpotter Posts: 18,353

    Thank-you

    I see the circuit is broken too (ie Battery Out)
    But I then started to think well I only want to remove some of the Voltage (ie not the CMOS battery!) But then I thought well this is not "All Power" And then I thought, but this still works! And that was the debate, not if "All Power" was removed but if the 5V (you say 3.3V, so be it.) residual voltage was removed

    So some time has passed.
  15. N1nJa

    N1nJa Newcomer, in training Posts: 28

    Wow, talk about a pointless arguement. Did the original problem get fixed by you two bickering like children?
    Anyhow if your problem isnt fixed, i would suggest taking it to a certified repair person at a local computer store. Get them to check for loose wiring or faulty connections.
    there also is the possibility of not enough energy getting to your computer from the power outlet. My laptop is a monster when it comes to plugging into an outlet. I blow fuses in cars[and in airplanes], although the light on the bar my glow, that doesnt neccissarily mean that enough power is making it to the computer.

    Just a thought, and no, im not a tech n0ob
  16. kimsland

    kimsland Ex-TechSpotter Posts: 18,353

    I agree

    The arguing got continued through PMs (probably a better method, instead of someone's thread).

    By the way, the ending result, was that not all power is dispersed (but I cannot Edit the thread anymore), even though the Disperse idea still does work.
  17. lamo

    lamo Newcomer, in training Posts: 570

    what can i see in this forum, that at least every 2nd person starts thread with panic crying "my laptop won't turn on!" WITHOUT identifying make and model of laptop. and there's 2 definitions of "won't turn on" cases:
    1st case. laptop REACTS on pressing power button, but nothing happens with LCD screen, but you can see that power on light turned on and in some cases fans and HDD's started to spin. we, laptop servicemen, call this case as: laptop won't start. that means, that unit can't finish POST procedure completely. reasons can be various: broken BIOS image, dead southbridge, dead memory modules,videochip etc. in this situation, very useful device is the POST-card(mini-pci, or, for new laptops - LPC card). using this card, you can check POST passing(or not :))
    2nd case. laptop can't turn on. no reaction on pressing power-on button. again, reasons can be very various(lack of SB voltages,dead KBC-controller,dead BIOS ROM,southbridge,PWM-controlles,etc).
    don't forget, that for any laptop model, there are TYPICAL failures. for instance, for IBM T4x series(except t43) the typical failure - is the videochip failure. this happens due to videochip positioning onto motherboard(in the middle), and thus, broken BGA soldering. as this chip is compaunded,so you can only replace it, or replace motherboard itself.
    i think, it would be better to stick this post. every person, who wants to describe his problem with laptop should read this.
  18. matris

    matris Newcomer, in training

    Thank you Kimsland

    Hi all. My Toshiba Satellite P205 was not turning on this morning (no response, just an adapter plugged in light). Talk about panic, since it is where I keep all my business info. and update my websites from.

    Anyhow, I wanted to thank Kimsland for posting her solution, because it worked like a charm!

    Also, you seem to be a very patient person with grumpy, condescending people (I won't mention any names) - what charity!

    Have a great day!
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