Spontaneous random reboots

Anlavabeed

Posts: 53   +0
Hi,

After replacing my MB, see previous thread: https://www.techspot.com/community/topics/after-windows-7-update-no-boot-cant-access-bios.204865/ I ran into new problems (please note, the computer with the Asus board was working fine until the Windows update):

I have replaced the Asus P7H55-M/usb3 MB with the Gigabyte Ga-P55-UD6, which was pulled from a working system. Specs are now:
Gigabyte GA-P55-UD6
Core i3 1156 530
6GB DDR Memory (3x Kingston KVR1333D3N9/2GB)
Crucial SSD M500 240GB
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
Geforce EN210
Tagan TG480 (480Watt)

The first problem I ran into was that the pc was not able to boot and load entirely from a Windows DVD or USB stick (made bootable). After many hours of trying to find the cause I pulled out 2 of the 3 memory sticks (left only 1 in slot DDR3_1), and suddenly the pc was able to boot from the usb. To check if a dim slot was faulty I placed a 2nd stick into slot DDR3_4. Same problem. Then I switched both sticks between the slots, problem also wasn't fixed. After that I pulled one stick from slot DDR3_4, and the pc was working again.

The sticks are fine, the slot must be faulty or dualchannel is not working properly. Anyway, I thought I was going to sort out the dualchannel problem later, so I kept one 2GB Ram stick.

Already during the installationprocess, if I remember correctly, and also even before all drivers were installed I got spontaneous reboots. After disabling the automatic restart there is no BSOD.
But in Safe Mode everything seems fine.

So could it be a driver issue? But that is weird, because it even happened before all the drivers were installed. Or is it the PSU? The CPU is not getting warm (30C).

I'm getting sick and tired of all these problems. Hopefully somebody is able to help. Let me know if you guys need more information.

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Edit: Could it be that the power consumption of this board is much bigger than with the previous board? Some of the features:
"Industry's First 24 Phase Power VRM Design
GIGABYTE's cutting edge 24 phase power VRM design utilizes the highest caliber components to provide unadulterated, smooth power delivery for the CPU. Like a high performance sports car engine, GIGABYTE's 24 phase power design enables the best delivery of power to supercharge your system, giving extreme users unparalleled overclocking ability and the lowest temperatures to reach maximum performance levels.
The innovative 24 phase power VRM has been designed and engineered to deliver fast transient response times through quick and seamless power delivery during extensive CPU loading variations. In addition, heat from the VRM is effectively reduced by spreading the load between the 24 power phases, resulting in a cooler and more stable platform."
 
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I have replaced the PSU, but the problem is still there. I'm checking the memory with Memtest. I will post the results here.
 
The memory install issues worry me. Be sure to check the motherboard manual for the proper way to install the 3 memory modules. If you still get problems, I would return the motherboard...
 
It made 4 passes last time I checked with no errors. When I came back to check again, the computer has rebooted and crashed during the Windows start screen! So it must be hardware related. I will try to find out if the SSD drive is causing some hardware conflict. This is not good.
 
I agree with TMagic on your ram. If you don't get it straight it will drive you insane. You have 6 DIMM Slots, 2 are gray dual channels only. Anything else added into the others will do more harm than good. If you want to run 10 gig on a board if you put single side 1gb sticks in your gray channels (Same specs) and dual side 2gb sticks in your blue slots (same specs). DON'T leave the gray slots empty. (Get your booting straight first by using dimm sticks with same specs sticks gray channels & same specs in blue)

Now for booting, WIN 7 and the newer USB 3.0 don't play well. Enable legacy support in the bios so it sees the USB2.0 as 1st device. Install the OS onto the USB as an ISO File. You should be able to do a 100% install. Don't skip any files on the install as it will only haunt you down the road.
 
Thanks guys. I was trying to get at least 7 passes, but apparently it rebooted by itself again.

@Snakepliskyn.
To make things clear: I have only one 2GB stick in the gray dimm slot. So I have checked it with Memtest using one stick. Is this not right?
 
Thanks guys. I was trying to get at least 7 passes, but apparently it rebooted by itself again.

@Snakepliskyn.
To make things clear: I have only one 2GB stick in the gray dimm slot. So I have checked it with Memtest using one stick. Is this not right?

No. For dual channel is exactly what it says dual as in 2. It may boot and read correctly, but performance is never what it should be. You can't use 1 gray, but you need 2 identical in each of the gray for channel to work. If you use 2gb you can only run 1gb dual sided in the blues. Once you get all of your ram in, go to start then run and type in dxdiag to see what your system sees you as installed.

On the reboot is it during install? I am older guy with 15+ yrs hands on and just finishing duel degrees in IT. MB issues and RAM are tough issues. Its why most shops won't do custom builds, to many things can go wrong. I happen to think you may try to install USB from your mouse port to load windows as it defaults to the slower USB2.0. You may need to check your MFG of the MB and get the current BIOS version. Be sure to have it fully charged or plugged in. No do-overs if it shuts down during flash and you didn't tell it to.

Do not upgrade to WIN8.1 regardless. Its a OS that should never have met with a keyboard.
 
I forgot to mention that the memory was from the previous board.

@Snakeplystkinn
So, just to check if I'm understanding you correctly.
I must put TWO dualchannel RAM sticks in the gray slots? I can't just put one in of the dimmslots if I'm only want to use 1 stick max (when performance is not something I'm really aiming for)? If I'm really want to use one stick, I can only put in a blue Dimm slot?

I will check if the 2 sticks were a pair. But there were not working well together in the two gray slots, I was not able to boot from a DVD or USB. There are dual sided sticks.

I already have installed Windows from an USB stick. There is only USB 2.0 on this board.
Legacy USB was enabled.

BTW. My memory is clocked at 683Mhz and voltage is 1.568V. It should run at 1.5V (1.425V-1.575V) and 1333Mhz.

On the reboot is it during install?
I'm not sure anymore, if the reboot issue occurred during the installation it was only once.

I happen to think you may try to install USB from your mouse port to load windows as it defaults to the slower USB2.0
I'm not sure what you mean by that. I can't connect USB to an mouse port.

I'm not willing to flash my Bios with these random reboots. It is too risky right now.

Windows 8.1 is not something I was willing to install. That's a piece of **** :)
 
"BTW. My memory is clocked at 683Mhz and voltage is 1.568V. It should run at 1.5V (1.425V-1.575V) and 1333Mhz"... Make sure the memory is set to the default settings of the motherboard, and 4GB minimum memory is best for Windows 7-8. I run 16GB. You say reboots not blue screens. If you get any blue screens, go to C:\windows\minidump. Minidump files have a .dmp extension. Select all the .dmp files and right-click sending the files to a compressed(zipped)folder. Upload this folder as a file here...
 
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I read back through what you have done. The MB is laid out weird and God only knows. You have 6 slots but moving away from CPU are not in order. Closet to the CPU is 3,2,1 (gray) then 6,5,4 (gray) is farthest away. With a Core i3 you can only use Ram speeds of 1600MHz which you are okay. I checked with a local guru:
(1) You need to be running 2 sticks of single channel DDR3 (same type you have) even when not using Dual Channel. You won't see an increase using Dual Channel with Corei3. You can use slots (3,2) or (6,5) doesn't matter or use all 4, but keep the same type speed/voltage of ram. It seems that the MB likes slots to be used in pairs when using single channel DDR3.
(2). Go into BIOS, on MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.) page on the Advanced Frequency Settings sub-page: check that "Uncore Clock Ratio" is at set at least 21x
(3). On the Advanced Voltage Settings sub-page: QPI/VTT Voltage to 1.200v and DRAM Voltage to 1.54v assuming it was set at 1.5v
(4). Enable Legacy Support while in BIOS.

Hopefully this gets your booting and restarts eliminated. I am not sure that your old board was bad based on the thread. Microsoft is notorious to put out a good OS then they go and screw with it. There are more flavors of Win7 and Win8.1 than I care to count and no ver of Win8.1 is user friendly like Win7.

Disregard the USB Port. Most people use a USB mouse. I was thinking in terms of laptop, but should apply to towers. The USB for keyboard/mouse default to 2.0 but the others do not. Also BIOS updates enables USB 3.0 support and you think your PC has gone to hell when you only need to go in an reset to allow legacy support.

Based on the read and the questions the issue is likely the voltage of the ram and the slots they are in at this time. They are not bad, just need to be moved around.
 
@Tmagic650

These are the default settings the board has set the memory: 683Mhz=1366Mhz. The Volt settings are within the 1.425V-1.575V Kingston is recommending. I read in an article that the board is overclocking slightly by default. I will try to lower the Herz later if possible.

No BSOD unfortunately.

I read in the manual that if I want to use one RAM stick, it should be in one of the two gray slots. There are two channels with each 3 dimm slots. Anyway, the RAM stick is in the right slot.

I have also replaced the SSD with a normal HD. Also with this hardware the computer rebooted, even during installation. It has corrupted the Windows installation the first time. I replaced the Sata cable, this time the installation went ok, but during installation of the chipsetdrivers the pc froze a few times and rebooted also. In the eventviewer the ususal message: kernel ID 41, 63. But also ID 1101 and 6008.

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Edit:
@Snakepliskynn
Saw your post only afterI placed mine. Will use your tips later.
Thanks guys for your help so far.
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Edit2:
RAM info:
99U5471-002.A00LF Kingston KVR1333D3N9/2GB
0000005004232 1.5V
NMJ2U-39LP4F-AV97E (<-only this code is different on other stick) Assy in Taiwain (2)
Both double sided

Manual says the follwing about dual channel
2 sticks Slot 1 and 4 (DS/SS)
4 sticks Slot 1,2 and 3,4 (DS/SS)
6 sticks Slot 1 DS/SS, 2 SS, 3 SS, 4 DS/SS, 5 SS, 6SS
 
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You still have you OS on a USB Stick or on a DVD? I don't think you have corrupted your OS by any means if it booted up. I wouldn't lower the volts especially if it booted. I am concerned about it being in the correct slots. I know we went for years and never worried, but now they have put names on DIMM that a rocket scientist can't interpret correctly. At most, in the old days it just would cap off the amount it could read. But running too high voltage of ram can toast a motherboard. Don't worry I checked it 3 times. Say you had some of the higher volt DDR3 and stuck it with the Corei3 CPU you wouldn't be writing on this thread by now.

41 error "The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down."
63 error "Power event error" (likely the voltage on your RAM)
1101 error "Could not write the error to a system log"
6008 error "Is an unexpected shutdown error"

I'd keep the USB handy in case your system ask to restore on next boot. I would leave USB as default or whatever you loaded OS with as default in case it asks for a .dll file on boot. I seriously doubt it. All of those errors are mainly logged into a file for future usage. The codes are not the errors, they were the result of errors. So they likely are result of your last shutdown.....
 
You still have you OS on a USB Stick or on a DVD?
I'm have done the installations each time from the USB stick, it goes so much faster.

I don't think you have corrupted your OS by any means if it booted up.
This is what Windows said, with the first installation on the HD it couldn't finish the installation because of corrupted files.

It takes some time before I have done what you said. It is already evening here. I will post asap when I know more.

BTW see edits in my previous post in case you missed them.
Thanks
 
I can't say I am an advocate of using USB Sticks to load an OS. I get free software through a program on campus (IT Forensics) and typically download and burn DVD as an ISO. Its slower, but you get that confirmation the DVD is burnt correctly.
Not having done USB, can't say I know if it confirms a success transfer and expansion of all compressed files. Let me know how it goes.I have some errands to run.
 
Legacy USB was already enabled.

In the manual I read that it is possible to use one RAM stick, bu tit must be in 1 of the 2 gray slots. The other slot is also working when I put 1 in it. Same problems.

(1) You need to be running 2 sticks of single channel DDR3 (same type you have) even when not using Dual Channel. You won't see an increase using Dual Channel with Corei3. You can use slots (3,2) or (6,5) doesn't matter or use all 4, but keep the same type speed/voltage of ram. It seems that the MB likes slots to be used in pairs when using single channel DDR3.

Putting two ramsticks into slot 3 and 2 does NOT work! Beeps!

The maximum Uncore Clockratio I can apply is 20x. It is set now to 15x.
I haven't changed it to 20x, nor the QPI/VTT settings because I'm not sure if with 20x things may damage.

I have tried to find a setting to change the 1366 to the normal 1333mhz for the RAM. I couldn't find it. I can lower the Voltage, but only to 1.4V which is too low according to Kingston.

CPU is running at 1230.69Mhz, RAm at 1367.45Mhz CPU Vcore is 1.0125V, QPI/VTT is 1.100V.

But it could also be a memory controller issue on the CPU. And/or a bent pin. The following thread is not about random reboot issues, but it is very similar to mine:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/t...-with-2-memory-sticks-in-dual-channel.132588/
 
I wouldn't worry about the MHZ setting. It will only run as fast as the slowest stick. I would not lower the voltage to 1.4v, leave it as is at 1.5v

You have answered most of your own question with the manual. You have at least 2 sticks with identical versions, voltage, etc... you should be able to put one each in both gray slots as they are dual sided sticks.

Manual says the following about dual channel
2 sticks Slot 1 and 4 (DS/SS) ------ Dual Side or Single Side

Pick out the 2 identical ram sticks. Boot it with 1 stick in the gray slot. If it boots to safe mode, shut it down and mark it good. Then try the other one. If it boots to safe shut it down and try it with both in the gray slots 1,4. Then we can move to next step. Until you get you ram settings right, it will only boot to SAFE mode to protect the motherboard.

Did the manual say anything about enabling Dual Channel in Bios or is it auto detect?
 
Hi,

I have already done what you said. I booted the pc with 1 stick in the gray slot. I have tested both sticks. And both gray slots. They all work seperately, the pc will boot normally to the windows desktop (without safemode) except for the reboot issue. So slot 1 with one stick=ok, Slot 1 empty but with the same stick in slot 4=ok. The other stick with same specs, in slot 1 with this stick only=ok, same applies to slot 4. But running BOTH sticks together in the gray slots won't work.

DUal channel is auto detect.

I will try one more time to change the QPI/VTT settings, with leaving the Uncore setting at the default value of 15X, with both sticks in the dualchannel slots.
Is this ok?

Thanks.
 
Check your CPU closely for a BENT PIN. Also did you use lithium between the heat sink and CPU. Most likely you did. Only think left is trying Slots 1,2, or 1,3 and then 1,2,3. It may not run in dual channel unless you buy the ram as a set. Don't know why, but I have learned since 1995, anything that can blow your mind will do it. I've always stayed away from piece mill parts unless it was a know item that failed.
You can drive yourself insane. I actually trashed a laptop the other day after it started random shutdowns. I metered the BIOS battery, and checked the fans to see if spinning. Checked the ram in a similar model and decided not worth it. I kept it for parts since I own 2 other HP Laptops all of same series. I am not a big fan of HP, but former employer furnished them to me free. I knew I could spend more time troubleshooting than it was worth. Keeping dust blown out if fans is a must. With these knew CPU's I use magnifying glass when looking at the pins.

If all fans are spinning, not bent pins, you might check Tom's Hardware Forum and someone may know or faced same issue.
 
No bent pins. I was able to lower the RAM voltage to 1.504V, but it kept running at 1366mhz.

I'm thinking about putting in another i3 CPU, but I don't have one laying around. If I buy one from the bay it is the last thing I will try.

Thanks for all the help!
 
I still think there is some bad code somewhere. Bad thing about a BIOS is it is almost a point of no return. You know there is bad code out there or they would not have revisions. My last upgrade of WIN8.1 took out my USB ports on my laptop. I have 3 OS installed, but have to have legacy support for WIN7 to boot and when its enabled WIN8 USB ports don't work. Go figure.... I am running 8 gig on my laptop due to college classes. Almost never found a mate to the 4 gig chip I had. Once I am done with classes I am going to format it and run Linux on it. Much more stable.
 
Update:
I have installed another i3 CPU. It seems to improve things a bit, it is more stable. It also booted with two RAM sticks in the gray slots, but it is still not 100%. So maybe the memory is bad aswell. I'm going to test the RAM this weekend. Hopefully it will run at least 7 passes.
 
FIXED! For all of those that experienced the same problem, this is what I have done

There were two problems:
1. The new CPU fixed the random reboots. The memorycontroller on the old CPU was probably bad.
2. I changed the default settings of the memory (the board slightly overclocked the RAM),
-bClk from AUTO (althought setting was 133, the board slightly overclocked the RAM) to 133 manually
-RAM Voltage from AUTO (default was 1.500V, but nevertheless overclocked to 1.568V) but after manually changing that to 1.500V it actually was not overclocked anymore. Now I was able to run both sticks together in the gray slots!

Unfortunately I was so frustrated that I have bought a new MB with CPU and RAM. Oh well.
 
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