New build PC not working

By earthflyer
Jan 17, 2010
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  1. need help with a booting problem.

    I have just built a new pc for myself and when i press the power switch all i get is a twitch in the fans for 1 second and that is it.

    My power light is on and looks ok but my HDD light goes out and so does the light on the blue fan sitting in front case all i get is a flicker then dead.

    The light on the mother is also on but none of the fans are working.

    I have checked over the wires for the power switch and don't see a problem, have done the same as in manual. also have checked the power cable from the PSU into the motherboard and I have a choice of 4 pin or 8 pin but have tried both with no success.

    The parts I have built into my atx case is:

    intel i7 950
    PT6 x58 motherboard
    PSU Corsair 650
    DDR3 3x2gb Corsair Ram
    Nvidia GTS 250 Graphics card 1gb
    1tb HardDrive
    22xDvd rw

    any suggestions would be great.

    thanks
    earthflyer
  2. mailpup

    mailpup TS Special Forces Posts: 8,382   +205

    You might have shorted the motherboard to the case. Did you use standoffs? Sometimes they aren't needed because the case has them built in.

    You can try removing the motherboard from the case and placing the mobo next to it on a soft, non-conducting surface and install only the basics, graphics card, leave the CPU/heatsink/fan and one RAM module attached and hook up the power supply connections. For purposes of this test you may leave disconnected the hard drive, optical drives and sound card (if applicable). See if it will post now.
  3. Tmagic650

    Tmagic650 TS Ambassador Posts: 20,673   +152

    That 4 or 8 pin motherboard connector could actually be a 6 pin 12 volt CPU power supply connection
  4. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,781   +638

    If the Corsair PSU is a HX (modular) then it has one 8 (4+4) EPS 12v connector and four PCIe 6+2 pin -the PCIe connectors are clearly labelled as such on the plug. If the PSU is a TX (fixed cable) the only difference is that it has two fewer PCIe conectors-but the two that are present are also clearly labelled. I don't think a PCIe connector will fit in the EPS 12V socket on most later motherboards.

    If all the components have been purchased together then it's a process of elimination. Unfortunately you will probably need access to another LGA1366 board or CPU.
    Before getting to that stage I would try to eliminate as many variables as possible by:
    Plug the power cord from the PSU into the wall socket -have both the wall socket switch and the PSU switch SWITCHED OFF. The chassis is now grounded and touching any unpainted surface regularly will dissipate static electricity buildup. Avoid working on a carpeted area and wearing nylon or synthetic clothing as much as possible as this can cause static buildup.

    Remove the mobo from the case and set it up on the anti-static bag it came with-place both on top of the motherboard box or another firm surface- when the board is powered up this way you can eliminate shorting as the culprit.

    Remove the cooler and CPU -thoroughly check the CPU socket for bent or broken pins. If you look at the socket from multiple angles any discrepency should be apparent. If you have keen eyesight you can also look at the contact pads on the underside of the CPU-each will generally show a slight mark from it's contact with the corresponding pin in the socket.
    If these checks show no visible problem then re-install the CPU and cooler after first cleaning the old thermal grease off both the cooler base and the CPU heatspreader (and any that may have gotten around the mobo socket area) with Arcticlean/Isopropyl alcohol and lint-free cloth.

    Plug in the motherboard 24 pin and 8 pin EPS. If you removed the RAM then insert ONE STICK ONLY into the motherboard -into the 1st orange slot.
    Add your graphics card and connect the PSU's PCIe connector
    Check to make sure that the motherboard battery is inserted fully.
    You now have all the components you need for a POST.
    Connect the monitor to the graphics card, connect keyboard and mouse now of if the system posts.
    Turn on power at wall and PSU, press the onboard power button on the mobo (near to the 24 pin mobo power connector)
    If you have life then good. If not then power down and swap out the RAM stick for one of the two remaining ones and repeat the power-on, if no go then repeat with the third stick.

    If at this point you still have a no post then you need to test individually.
    The PSU is the least likely candidate but the easiest to test-use a cheap voltmeter from an electronics/home hardware store or have it checked by a pro.

    If the PSU tests good then the likely culprit is the motherboard. DOA's for motherboards greatly exceed those for CPU's. To be 100% sure you would need to test the CPU in a known working X58 board- but having already tested the PSU and RAM (the graphics card could be fritzed but would most likely show something on the monitor, even if it's just flickering. You can test this by inserting it into any system that supports a PCIe graphics card)

    At this stage I would RMA the board-just on suspicion. New Intel CPU's seldom arrive DOA, motherboards on the other hand can have a 10% DOA rate depending on brand, shipping method and wholesaler/etailer.
  5. Tedster

    Tedster Techspot old timer..... Posts: 10,074   +13

    read the NO POST guides in the guides forum
  6. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,781   +638

    Never fear, Tedsters here.
    You all seem to have it under control. Adios.
  7. Xecutor

    Xecutor Newcomer, in training Posts: 141

    lol Dividebyzero :) Nice one.
    Dividebyzero provides useful points for you to consider. Usually by doing what he says, you can rid yourself of the short, and also, the mounting support screws (that should have come with the casing) are very cheap (like 5$ cheap). You could try finding after-market screws and using them instead.

    Also, there is one tiny thing a lot of people forget; I'm not implying you did, but just in case, you need to use an anti-static wrist strap (8-9$) before touching anything. Just a caution, mind you.

    By the way, how much did that i7 setup cost you?




    PS: that GTS 250 could have been switched for a GTX260 core216 for just about 100$ more; that's an exponential difference in performance. Just as an FYI.
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