New Build won't Start

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Humor me for a while. Get a friend to help, as two heads are better than one. Assume nothing. Check everything slowly, carefully.
Power supply lights up by itselt, tests good at the store., and is a top model
Motherboard is new and a known top qulaity board.
CPU and cooler are new and known top quality.
Got official sounds when first attempted boot... then quit.
We are not giving up on this computer, but we have to look at stoopied stuff. Something simple has gone wrong, or has been damaged, and it is so difficult to look for these things because it makes you feel stoopid to even look for these things. You could be looking directly at a problem, and your mind refuses to see it.
You do have your memory properly installed? Remove extra modules so there is only one installed, and test, then replace with the other and test. We are looking for defective memory. Look very carefully at the socket for dirt, crud, bent or torn connect. Use a strong white LED flashlight if you can find one. Any change when you move this memory around.
Remove the motherboard, do the sniff test for any smell of burnt medal or other burned materiasl.
Examine the motherboard very carefully for any screw or hardware beneath the board that is grounding out the board. Is your board elevated from the case by at least a quarter of an inch on standard extensions? Are all screws protected by non-electrical connectors? Do you see any sign of damage in a bright light. Any possibility of a crack or rainbow colored metals. Any chance that they sent you a board that had previously been out of the box, and then resold to you as assumed good?
Remove the power supply and look for any grounding... screws, wire, etc.
Examine the case switch and the wires that go from the case power switch to the connectors to the motherboard. Can any of them be possibly in the wrong position or reversed. Sometimes the manuals have things exactly opposite.
Do you have a volt ohm meter which you can use to test continuity?
Do you have the little barrel-shaped capacitors on this board? Are any bent over? Us the light to examine for damage.
Look for jumpers that have the clip off.
Remove ALL other devices... hard drives, optical drives, and wrap their cables in plastic foam and rubber bands to be sure they are not connecting someplace.
Examine all power cords, sockets. I once spent three days looking for a problem that was a defective power cord that cost 93 cents.
Somewhere in there is a perfectly good computer with one 20 cent component causing a failure so obvious you cannot see it.
Get back to us when you find it so we can all celebrate.
 
Oh i checked this already. I figured i got them backwards but nothing happened...The connectos are not marked at all except a small indentation in the shape of an arrow point down on on of the pins which i take this to mean its the positive pin.

but the case (Cooler Master Elite 310) didnt come with speaker connectors except for the headphone jack.
 
and then look at raybays signature line :)

well give it the once over three or four times, if its wrong hitting the power button is meaningless
 
Ok well CRAP! i put it all together thinking it wont start so i can have it ready for tomorrow....out of luck i turned it on and it started!!!!!!

on the bad side.....it started with a spark that shot out at me,.....it was still on but i shut it off almost immediatly

....something is telling me its toast for sure now.... :'(
 
ummm well, there is something that happens from time to time with the first start of a new PSU, it has an initial surge, kind of like the points on a car sticking.

Inrush Limiting
�� Reduces component stress
�� Implemented with:
�� NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient Resistors)
�� TRIACs
�� Relays
�� Active PFC circuits
Controlled charging of input capacitors
When a power supply is first plugged in or turned on, there is a large current
surge into the power supply as the input capacitors are charged.
Current inrush causes the “arcing” noise often heard when a computer or
other device is first plugged into the wall socket. Current inrush is stressful
on switches, diodes, capacitors, wall sockets, etc.
Many power supplies incorporate “Inrush Limiting”. The most common
method is the NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) resistor. The NTC
resistor has a high resistance (about 40 ohms) when cold and a low
resistance (< 1 ohm) when hot. The NTC resistor is placed in series with the
input to the power supply. The cold resistance limits the input current as the
input capacitors charge up. The input current heats up the NTC and the
resistance drops during normal operation.
If the power supply is quickly turned off and back on, the NTC resistor will be
hot so its low resistance state will not prevent an inrush current event.
Another method is to use TRIACs or relays in parallel with a resistor. The
resistor limits inrush current. A sensor circuit monitors the input capacitor
voltage. When the input capacitors are charged, either a relay or a TRIAC
across the input resistor is enabled to provide a path for power flow during
normal operation.
Active Power Factor Correction (PFC) circuits also minimize inrush currents
by minimizing the size of the input capacitors directly connected to the power
input terminals.

I have had this happen to me a couple of times, i heard a pop then it worked normally after a restart. i have not had sparks shoot out though.
 
alright after a quick peek at the damage...it appears that i blew a chip near the pwr fan....i think that renders this mobo un usable now....right
 
right between the the two dimm channels....its burned ey? i suspect your ram is then too. yuck
did it blow any caps?
 
no idea LOL...i was hoping you would say newegg. obviously the pin assignment is different on the 6 pin than the 4 pin for the motherboard, but i would think that it would make it just shut down, not blow a support chip out of the PCB. i have seen the initial power up of a new PSU do things like that before,
 
Im trying to find the piece that blew out...maybe i can somehow glue it on here and make it look new lol

Everything lse should be good...like ram and gpu and all
 
well sorry it blew up on you, if you would , let me know how it gets resolved. hopefully they will exchange it for you.
 
Hey Red,

Just so history doesn't repeat itself; do you suspect that the 6-pin connector to the 4 pin motherboard connector is what caused the original problem?
 
OMG New mobo and still doesn't turn on. Forget it! I am bringing it to the shop tomorrow and letting them deal with it. I just hope (and highly doubt) its the cpu...

Ill let you guys know how it turns out.
 
that sucks, well best of luck placebos, yeah, if you would,let us know what the deal is. BTW, did they RMA it for you?
 
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