Yes.
But to put it into context...
When the motherboard's clock generator pulses, the extreme values (spikes) of the pulses creates EMI (Electromagnetic Interference). The Spead Spectrum function reduces the EMI generated by modulating the pulses so that the spikes of the pulses are reduced to flatter curves. It does so by varying the frequency so that it doesn't use any particular frequency for more than a moment. This reduces interference problems with other electronics in the area

Now, PCI-E Spread Spectrum and PCI-E Frequency are two different settings within the BIOS. PCI-E Frequency is a nominal 100MHz and denotes the bus speed (link) between motherboard chipset and the PCI-E device (usually graphics card). Having the frequency above 100 on a stock default clocked system can cause stability problems.
PCI-E Frequency is set to "Auto" by default in the BIOS- so if you can't find it,then no big deal, the board should maintain the frequency at 100.

The only reason I mentioned it was because system instability can be caused by a number of different components, and in some cases, a few of those components are all unstable which makes troubleshooting a b*tch. I usually aim to set enough "safe" or "optimum" parameters in the BIOS as possible, so if the system is unstable then I can rule out a number of possible causes pretty much immediately. So, while some settings may be directly related to the RAM (in this instance), some are not-but if having set correct BIOS settings where applicable and problems show up then the troubleshooting tree is much more manageable.

Well it seems just setting my Dram freq to 1066 Mhz solves the issue, but over time like say 1 week it problem starts requiring again, and i found that if i set my bios to default settings, reboot then set it back to 1066mhz it fixes it then will start doing it again after another week or so D:

If the board isn't holding the default setting then the boards battery may need replacing.
A couple of dollars spent on a replacement may cure the problem.

Well it seems the bios still says 1066mhz, but it seems when i boot and it shows a black page real quick it shows like 1064mhz? strange.

Also how long does a motherboard battery last?

Usually? years, often the lifetime of the board. But isn't uncommon for them to fail, and a failing battery mean that the board will not be able to maintain it's settings-although the board under many circumstances will reboot with a default configuration, depending upon model/BIOS/manufacturer.

hmm, would you know any reason why when it boots it shows a slightly different Mhz amount then what i set? Like its at 1066mhz atm but it shows in the quick post system spec black screen page for about 1 second a different mhz. And ill look into buying a new battery.

Technically your RAM would run at 1064 if your CPU runs at a core frequency of 266MHz (1:1 divider), but since the core frequency is actually 266.6666666666...it is rounded to 266.5, so 266.5 x 4 (quad pumped) = 1066. The actual value can fluctuate depending on the board. The easiest way to see this happening would be to run an instance of CPU-Z and watch the Core frequency/FSB change.

Wow thanks! you really know your stuff

well i dont really thing its the battery because it still shows the 1066 Mhz setting in the bios. Know any other reasons why i am having this problem?

So, you've replaced the battery and the system is still unstable ?
The RAM should retain it's settings (1066) if you have set a divider or manually set the RAM

I have not replaced the battery but the 1066mhz setting i put up still holds its value, so i dont think its the battery, if it was would it not just set the bios to default?

I assume you had the system turned off? because if the system is on, it would retain whatever settings you have set in BIOS.

What do you mean? Im saying that i set the settings in bios so the computer does not freeze in Utorrent and it works fine, and after a week it starts crashing etc and i check the the same values i set previously in the Bios are still there so the battery cannot be faulty because if it was the bios would be cleared, correct? OH and now i get your reply.

The system is off, but still plugged in to the wall.

oh sorry I misunderstood.

If you think the battery is solid, then that leaves three options:
1. During the time between resetting BIOS defaults, a BIOS setting is changing- (probably one of the "Auto" voltage values)- and the resetting of BIOS defaults is bringing the value back to a stable configuration. You should be able to monitor voltages through a third party software app such as Speedfan if you can't monitor through Asus software or PC Health in the BIOS. Note the values at BIOS reset and check them periodically for changes/fluctuation.
2. The MCH (northbridge/P35 chipset) doesn't have enough voltage to maintain stable power delivery to the RAM- which would explain why 1 RAM module is stable in the system but 2 are problematic (this is also linked to the first option above).
and lastly, and possibly most unlikely...
3. Your power supply is not providing a fully stable current or power handling on the board isn't what it should be

All this presupposes that your NIC is working fine, and you aren't dropping connectivity over your internet connection.

*sigh*

im still having the problem, ive tired finding mem voltage reader but i heard that software is not accurate as using a physical voltage tester, is there any reason why this only happens in utorrent?

i think i found the issue, it may be creative sound drivers

We can check that out by causing your system to 'crash', here is the method if you want to try it.

Steps:

Before proceeding on the following steps please ensure that you can boot your system in safe mode.

1) Windows Key + R (or go to Start, then click on Run..)
2) Type in 'verifier' and hit enter
3) Make sure 'Create Standard Setting' is selected and hit next
4) Click on 'Select all drivers installed on this computer' and hit Finish
5) Reboot

There is a possibility that your computer will crash on reboot. If this occurs hit F8 when rebooting just before the windows logo screen and select the safe mode boot option. Follow the same steps above but on step 4 choose 'Select driver names from a list'; hit next; check the box next to any driver where the provider is not Microsoft; hit Finish; reboot.

This will slow the performance of you computer a little while enabled but will hopefully catch the driver causing corruption. Next time you crash the blue screen will hopefully say something like "DRIVER_VERIFIER_DETECTED_VIOLATION". When this occurs please post your new minidump.


Please note that Driver Verifier will continue to run on every boot up until you run (by going to Start, then to Run):

verifier /reset