TechSpot

Building new system Update

By rake1
Jan 8, 2010
  1. Guys with your help here is what I think I will go with I just need some final input to make sure this is all compatible. I changed from the i5 to i7-860. I also am looking at the
    Western Digital Caviar 1TB rather than the Western Digital Caviar 500GB only $10.00 more can you look at this for me and offer any suggestions before I place my order.


    Thermaltake M9 VI1000BWS Black SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case Item #: N82E16811133058

    Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EADS 1TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
    Item #: N82E16822136317

    Western Digital Caviar Black WD5001AALS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
    Item #: N82E16822136320

    MSI R5750-PM2D1G Radeon HD 5750 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card

    OCZ StealthXStream OCZ700SXS 700W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply
    Item #: N82E16817341019

    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL

    GIGABYTE GA-P55-UD3R LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard
    Item #: N82E16813128401

    Intel Core i7-860 Lynnfield 2.8GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80605I7860
    Item #: N82E16819115214

    Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM
    Item #: N82E16832116754
     
  2. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,967   +737

    Looks fine.
    You're adding an optical drive?

    The core of the system is compatible- as I ascertained before recommending the mobo/RAM components- and you should have a great system once you put it all together.

    Harddrive choice is probably a coin flip:
    The Caviar Black has faster read and write times (probably not noticeable in real world use)
    and a 5 year warranty. The Caviar Green will be quieter, run a little less hot, has a larger capacity (in this instance) but has the warranty reduced to 3 years.
     
  3. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    I have an older dvd rw will this be fine or should I look at something else? What do you suggest? Is the 1tb really a big deal compared to the 500GB hard drive?
     
  4. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    I just noticed this also
    Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80601920 - Retail
    Item #: N82E16819115202
    i7 920 N82E16819115202 instead of the i7 860 N82E16819115214 for $10.00 more should I also change this out?
     
  5. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,967   +737

    Older DVD drive will be fine- might pay to find the latest firmware revision (if there is one) available and update it when you have the drive installed or ideally in update it while it's in your present system.
    Harddrive choice comes down to whether you're likely to use the extra capacity. If not then the extra 2 years warranty and the higher specced drive would be of better use.

    The i7 920 uses the LGA1366 socket so you would need to get a compatible X58 motherboard. The cheapest good quality boards
    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11830BD1602&vpn=GA-EX58-UD3R&manufacture=GIGABYTE (gigabyte EX58-UD3R $191 after rebate)
    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=10530BD4302&vpn=P6T SE&manufacture=ASUS
    (Asus P6T SE $214 after rebate)
    http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813186171
    (Foxconn Flaming Blade $170)

    You will then need triple channel memory in preference to dual channel
    http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231230 (G.Skill 6Gb 1333C7 $158)
    http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225 (Gskill 6Gb 1600C9 $158)

    OCZ Platinum kits seem to be on a roll-over rebate system. 6Gb of 1333/1600 RAM for around 145-150 from directcanada and newegg Canada.

    For the price differential is wouldn't be worthwhile getting a 3x1Gb kit.

    If you start exploring AMD after this I'll have to defer to another forum member.
     
  6. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    So it works out to about $150.00 to make the changes,my question is should I make them, and would I notice any difference if I did?
     
  7. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    Well I bought it, my 800.00 computrt cost me 1300.00 with shipping and taxes, isn't that always the way.I would like to thank all of you for your help picking out this setup. Special thanks to
    dividebyzero for sticking with me on this.
    My next question is how the hell do I put it all together when I get it?
     
  8. Ritwik7

    Ritwik7 TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 2,288   +7

    Follow the instructions on the motherboard manual. That should be good enough. If you get stuck, we're always here. :)
     
  9. Row1

    Row1 TS Maniac Posts: 401   +10

    put all pieces in dryer, and 'tumble dry low'

    put all pieces in dryer, and 'tumble dry low' for maybe 20 minutes.
    then add the operating sytem and tumble dry low for another 10 minutes.
     
  10. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    can I use a heat gun instead, my wife won't let me put electronics in the dryer again, she says they build up to much static.
     
  11. Row1

    Row1 TS Maniac Posts: 401   +10

    ground self. then look for too-small problems.

    read up somewhere on how to ground yourself to the case. a wire from you to case frame will do it. this will discharge static electricity you will pick up in this winter cool weather - otherwise, your static elec might shock a tiny component and detroy the entire component.

    then, pilot-fit things. sometimes, a motherboard will not go into case if you have installed power supply first. sometimes, you won't be able to install a hard drive or other bay-drive if the cpu cooling fan is already in place.

    generally you want to start with putting power supply in case, then motherboard in case.

    other than that: it would be cool to hear people's opinions.

    my typical:

    put ram in late in the process, cuz it always seems likely to get pushed and bumped otherwise, at least breaking a clasp on a ram slot.

    test-fit the cpu fan, to check clearance, but put this on around the end, since it will block your way for everything else.

    also hint - i learned this the hard way, and returned a motherboard out of ignorance - the computer will not start up unless there is enough power load on the power supply. so you need to have a few things put together before throwing the switch just to see if things are turning on at all.

    my story is i once installed mb into case, and hooked up power supply; then i trued to turn on to see if the mb was "good." nothing happpened. i thought mb was 'bad.' but it was because i needed more load on the power - processor, hard drive, vid card, floppy drive, cd drive, ram, fans.
     
     
  12. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    Good info thanks
     
  13. Row1

    Row1 TS Maniac Posts: 401   +10

    regarding heatgun:

    no, heatgun won't work. it is the tumbling that assembles the part.

    i did forget to tell you to add at least two cling-free sheets to control the static.
     
  14. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    HeHe, I will put all your advise right where It should be for safe keeping.
     
  15. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,967   +737

    Power supply in the case first, once fitted then plug it's cable into the wall socket -keep the wall switch OFF. The case is now grounded-touching any unpainted metal surface occasionally will dissipate any possible static charge. Don't wear nylon/polyester clothing if possible (Fashion victim!) and avoid a room that's carpeted. Cats and Dogs also carry static charges-so don't enlist any help from them in building the system.

    Screw in the appropriate motherboard standoffs (the small brass studs that you'll find with the accessories in the case - a normal ATX motherboard requires 9 -very important that they are in the right places.
    Install the motherboard backplate (I/O cover) -push the cover into place from inside the case.

    Place the motherboard on top of the anti-static bag it came in and rest the board on top of the box it came in and/or table/workbench.

    Follow the motherboard manual for unlatching the CPU socket cover and removing the protective plastic cover. Check the CPU socket for bent of broken pins-they're very small and should be perfectly in line- a bent/broken pins will usually be apparent-view the socket from all angles. If all good then grab the install manuals for the CPU and the motherboard.
    Check to see that the copper (or aluminium) heatsinks are attached to the board correctly- some boards use screws, but some like Gigabyte use white plastic push-pins-make sure they are all there- if they aren't then RMA the board- removing heatsinks and replacing thermal tape/thermal grease probably not advised without some prior experience.
    You can install the CPU then the cooler, plug the fan into the CPU fan header on the motherboard, add your RAM modules as per the manual
    At this point you can either decide to test (below) or install (go to step 2)
    Set up and power up the system while the motherboard is out of the case- I usually do this so that if anything is amiss I'll have a better view of whats happening (or not happening) and if the motherboard doesn't POST for some reason you can rule out an electrical short and don't have to haul everything back out of the case if it has to be returned.If you want do do this then plug in the power to the board (24 pin and the seperate 8 pin EPS 12v), insert the graphics card into the primary PCIe x16 slot and attach your monitors cable to card.
    Attach the case power (front panel) connector -if you bought the UD3R it has no onboard power switch, if you bought another board it may have one onboard.
    Once you are all connected up then you switch the power on at the wall- the PSU will automatically detect your voltage (active PFC) -push the case power button and you should have life!
    If this is the case then you can unplug the power connections after powering off the system, then turn off the power at the wall
    Step 2....
    organise the power cables to best keep them tidy/concealed/out of the way.
    place the motherboard into the case. Follow the instructions and here are a couple of tutorials
    Text.....
    http://www.pcmech.com/byopc/
    and video....
    http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,2845,2324281,00.asp
    The setup is basically as I outlined above but of course you'll be adding an optical drive and harddrive.

    Post back with any questions, And if you need help setting up the BIOS it may pay to start another thread.
     
  16. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    Thanks great post, once I get this and see all the parts I will revisit your post for the step by step.Going to start coping files and programs on Monday for the new install. I am not sure how long it will take to get here, but I expect at least a week. Some parts are coming as far away as CA. USA. Thats a long way from Nova Scotia.
     
  17. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    Ok guys I received all components except Power supply and case I have been doing some reading and putting some parts in the mother board. Can't do much more until I get the other parts. But have some questions as I never put one of these together from scratch.I see on the motherboard F-usb1 and F-usb2 I am assuming that is for the front USB ports. I have no cables for these so I have buy them separate correct? I also have 3 cables that fit into the SatA2 slots what do these attach to? Or are they for other hardware I don't have?The ribbon cable will plug into my old DVDRW. What about cables for my hard drive will they come with the power supply? will anything come with the case for connections? Sorry for all the question but I want to have everything I need when the other parts arrive.
     
  18. mailpup

    mailpup TS Special Forces Posts: 8,506   +237

    The cables for the front USB connectors on the case will come with the case.

    The SATA data cables you have will go to any SATA devices you install such as hard drives and optical drives.

    The power supply will come with its own power cables to connect to the motherboard, hard drive, optical drives graphics card (if needed), etc. You should also get a small piezo electric motherboard speaker with the case. Don't confuse data cables with power cables. The motherboard will come with most of the data cables you need but if you get retail versions of drives, they will usually come with their own cables. If you get OEM drives, you normally have to use the cables supplied with the motherboard or if you are short, you can buy them separately.
     
  19. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    Thanks for the info I will touch base again when I get the other components
     
  20. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    Well I got everthing today and started trying to hook up the wiring to the proper place and man I am lost. I can't believe all the wiring in this power supply. I have the mother board and power supply in but I just don't know about all the wiring. Is there somewhere I can go and see how to connect all the wiring? I realize some is not needed but I don't want to connect something wrong and blow this thing up. Any help woul;d be great.
     
  21. captaincranky

    captaincranky TechSpot Addict Posts: 11,047   +970

    If All else Fails.......RTFB.

    I don't mean to be abrupt but, (well actually I do), most of this is covered is the motherboard instruction manual, should you consider giving pause to read it.
     
  22. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    Thanks for the reply I have been reading all afternoon and am going to try to start up right now with my fingers crossed.
     
  23. captaincranky

    captaincranky TechSpot Addict Posts: 11,047   +970

    Fingers crossed is good, but only so long as you have your anti-static wriist strap on.
    That truth is with PSU connections, you must use a hammer to put them in the wrong socket.
    But seriously, double check everything, and best of luck.
     
  24. rake1

    rake1 TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 53

    Well I tried it and it starts up and quits in 1 sec. So I have something wrong any ideas? I put the Sata 1 cable on my hard drive and the other end on Sata 1 on mother board is this correct? The only other thing is my msi 5750 can fit in two slots I am not sure which it should be in. It also has two power cables coming of it which I can't see anywhere to hook it up. One other thing I am pluged in to the mother board with the 24 pin adaptor, there is also another
    power connection at the top left of the mother board I am not using should I be. I followed the directions as well as I could but it leaves some to the imagination.
     
  25. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,967   +737

    The setup for the board should be included in your motherboards quick setup guide and the manual (as the captain pointed out)
    The card setup also.
    The motherboard requires both the 24 pin and the 8 pin EPS 12v connector to be connected to the board or it will not run. Depending on what PSU you ended up with it will have either a 8 pin or a 4+4 pin arrangement or possibly both -use the 8pin if that's the case.. It could also have 8 pin (or 6+2 pin) PCIe connectors -these should be labelled and shown in the PSU instruction booklet- these are for grahics cards (along with any regular 6 pin PCIe connectors).
    Your harddrive is connected to the motherboard by the SATA data cable. The harddrive also requires power to run via a SATA power connector on one of the PSU's cables as does your CD/DVD drive if it SATA.
    The graphics card sits in the PCIex16 slot closest to the CPU socket (i.e. the top one)
    NOTE: You will not be using all the connectors that the power supply has. You can zip-tie the ones you aren't using and stow them away- If the PSU is modular then don't plug thiose cables in, if it has fixed cable then zip-tie them out of the way.
    Did you read/watch the tutorials posted earlier in the thread?
    It would pay to list the components you ended up with if you need to post again.
     
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