Various codes BSODs on Win7

So about 3 months ago I got issue of different BSODs popping out while playing high-end video games. Codes weren't helpful, as there were about 10 different types of them. I tried to resolve this in many different ways, including:
- RAM check, detected no corruptions,
- Hard drive check, no errors,
- GPU, Motherboard, sound card and keyboard drivers update
- All Windows updates
- Full anti-vir scan

None of these gave any results. So finally, I dismantled my PC case, and dusted off everything, all (5) case fans included. It did the job, and only BSOD case I got was after ~11h of GPU stress work. But that was in winter.

As outside temperatures risen from ~0C to ~20C, it attacked me again. I am getting random BSODs about 1h into almost any game. It would be obvious overheating issue, however it gets weirder than that. It happens in: Tribes Ascend, Mass Effect 3 multiplayer, Minecraft MP, and Leauge of Legends. LoL works on DX 7.0. That is not high end game. And at the same time, it does not crash in Mass Effect 3 SP, on max settings. It only happens on multiplayer games, even if GPU stress is a factor (lowering details seems to prolong non-crash span).

I could just change GPU cooling, but I am unsure is that the case here. Even if anti-overheating actions do help (open PC case), the multiplayer factor is somewhat weird, and new GPU cooling is not free. I'm adding a few recent crash dumps. My PC general specs are:
- Gigabyte GA-790XT-USB3 - AMD 790X
- Geforce GTX 460 Zotac AMP! edition
- AMD Phenom x2 555 BE 3.2 GHz (no OC)
- 4 GB DDR-3 GEIL 4096/1600 C8 Dual, Black Dragon (2x 2GB)
- Chieftec CFT-650-14CS
- Creative X-Fi Xtreme Gamer (sound card)
- Cooler Master 1000 PC Case (making overheating problem even more wth-like)
- Windows 7 Home Premium 64b


Help will be appreciated.

Edit:
New crash type - after running Mass Effect 3 SP for approx. 3h, attempt of alt+tab caused BSOD (STOP 0x0000000A), no issues before that.
 

Attachments

  • Crashes.zip
    179.6 KB · Views: 3
When there are that many different codes experience has shown us that memory corruption is usually the issue.

Question: What did you use/do to test your memory? The reason I ask is because your dump files specifically cite memory corruption as the culprit.

If you did not use Memtest please do the following...

1. Go to www.memtest.org and download the latest ISO version which is 4.20. It is free and perfectly safe.

2. Burn ISO to a CD.

3. Place CD in your drive and reboot with CD in drive. (You might have to place your drive as first bootable in your BIOS) The test will take over.


There is a Tutorial: How to use Memtest in our Guides and Tutorials forum; follow the instructions. There is a newer version than what is listed; use the newer. If you need to see what the Memtest screen looks like go to reply #21. The third screen is the Memtest screen.

Step1 - Let it run for a LONG time. The rule is a minimum of 7 Passes (not hours; this test is not measured by hours); the more Passes after 7 so much the better. The only exception is if you start getting errors before 7 Passes then you can skip to Step 2.

There are 8 individual tests per Pass. Many people will start this test before going to bed and check it the next day.

If you have errors you have corrupted memory and it needs to be replaced.

Step 2 – Because of errors you need to run this test per stick of RAM. Take out one and run the test. Then take that one out and put the other in and run the test. If you start getting errors before 7 Passes you know that stick is corrupted and you don’t need to run the test any further on that stick.


* Get back to us with the results.


*** If Memtest shows no errors then find the voltage specs of your RAM and compare it to the voltage setting in your BIOS. Do they match?
 
So I previously used inbuilt Windows tool, forgot to mention.

After running Memtest for over 17h I got 4 errors in total, 2 in pass 14, 2 in pass 17 (it was working on pass 18 when I stopped it), and it was basically the same error in two passes. So 2 times faulty 2059,4 MB, and 2 times 2123,9 MB. Noticeable, the second errors got 00020000 at "Bad" position, and 00060000 at "Good", opposed to 00010000 and 00050000 for the first error. I do not know if it is indicative of something though.

So for step 2, I need to put one at the time, but will it make errors before 7th pass if it is corrupted one, or same "as much as possible" applies? And can that memory value I wrote down indicate which one is possibly the case?

About voltage, I did not check it in BIOS, but I noticed something being wrong in Speedfan, screen in attachment.
 

Attachments

  • Dat power.png
    Dat power.png
    133.2 KB · Views: 1
Any error using memtest indicates bad RAM. If you run it per stick you may or may not get errors before the 7th Pass.

Most memory manufactures have a limited lifetime warranty; the warranty is voided if you overclock the memory.

Also, if this memory came in a set then even if one stick is bad and the other good you'll still need to RMA together.

* Keep us updated.
 
Yes, they were sold, packed, and mounted together. I guess then it does not matter which one is faulty, if they must work in pair.
If so, I'll look up the warranty, as I did not OC anything, only small change of 2 processor settings for about month, quickly undone (realized now, sorry for not providing earlier).
 
No need to apologize. :) Again, please keep us updated and hope everything is resolved for you soon.
 
So the warranty is undergoing, I'm waiting for response from the shop. Apparently, it was to expire within 3 months, so I guess that's some good luck in some bad luck.

However. I'm somewhat concerned about the case of that issue. Doesn't it have something to do with overheating/voltage? What I mean here, is will the replacement not follow the path of it's predecessor? And how shall I understand the strange reading from Speedfan?
 
When they replace the RAM have them check the voltage settings in the BIOS and see if the motherboard sets the voltage according to manufacture's specs. This is easy to do.

Also, ask them the make of the RAM.

Secondly, ask them to test your power supply (get the make of this as well) and see if it is supplying what it purports to supply.

* Both of the above takes very little time to do; make sure they don't try to disregard the memtest results.
 
Well, it has been a while, but I finally managed to get the warranty procedure undergoing. However, it only applies to RAM itself, not the whole PC. So my question is, how do I check RAM voltage in BIOS myself? (I borrowed temporary 2GB stick to test that on.)
 
Back