I have tried 4 different cpus and 2 differnet motherboards and the boards just wont post. I now have a brand new motherboard and cpu and new memory and it still wont post. The board takes a 24plus 4 pin power supply. The power supply is the only thing they have left in common. I do get power to the board as the cpu fans fun no problem. I was told it could be a short in the power supply. Is it possible I need a new power supply. This one is less than 6 months old.
New motherboard, memory and CPU won't post
- Thread starter viejamom
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dividebyzero
Posts: 4,840 +1,271
Posting some system specs would probably help with troubleshooting. You're not giving us much to go on.
If you have tried all these combinations then check that you don't have a misplaced motherboard standoff connectiong with the board.
As a standard troubleshooting procedure I would assemble the the system outside the chassis using the bare requirements for a POST; Motherboard, CPU, cooler, 1 stick of RAM, video card, monitor, keyboard and power connections (24 pin mainboard and the 4 (or 8 pin) EPS 12v). If the board has an onboard power switch then you don't need to connect the chassis power connections to the board. Assemble the board on the anti-static bag the board shipped with, on top of the motherboard box and/or table.
If you leave the PSU plugged in at the wall but TURNED OFF while assembling and disassembling then touching any unpainted surface on the chassis occasionally will dissipate anu accumulated static charge
Get the PSU tested. Age is not the only determining factor to consider in a failing power supply. Build quality, physical damage and bad luck can all play their part.
If you have tried all these combinations then check that you don't have a misplaced motherboard standoff connectiong with the board.
As a standard troubleshooting procedure I would assemble the the system outside the chassis using the bare requirements for a POST; Motherboard, CPU, cooler, 1 stick of RAM, video card, monitor, keyboard and power connections (24 pin mainboard and the 4 (or 8 pin) EPS 12v). If the board has an onboard power switch then you don't need to connect the chassis power connections to the board. Assemble the board on the anti-static bag the board shipped with, on top of the motherboard box and/or table.
If you leave the PSU plugged in at the wall but TURNED OFF while assembling and disassembling then touching any unpainted surface on the chassis occasionally will dissipate anu accumulated static charge
Get the PSU tested. Age is not the only determining factor to consider in a failing power supply. Build quality, physical damage and bad luck can all play their part.
EXCellR8
Posts: 1,797 +1
Yes, you need to clarify which parts you are using. Without the components being identified it's almost impossible for us to help. Some motherboards require BIOS flash in order to work with certain CPUs so post the following:
CPU Model(s):
Motherboard Model(s):
Power Supply make, model and wattage:
CPU Model(s):
Motherboard Model(s):
Power Supply make, model and wattage:
I have a new BISOSTAR BOARD A770E3 With an AMD Phenom Quad Core Cpu. Bought as a package deal at Frys Electronics/ Power Supply is a Coolmaster 500 Watt Model RS500-PCARA3. I always test the board first outside of the case with only memory and video hooked up. I then jumper the connection for power on. I get power to the cpu fan and the fan on the power supply and that is it.
Ritwik7
Posts: 1,657 +9
How many modules of RAM are you using? Have you tried with only a single stick? Always make sure that your first RAM module is place in the first memory slot as determined by the manufacturer. I had similar problems with an MSI board as their first memory slot is not the slot next to the CPU, but the second one.
Memory can be very awkward at times, I've found on several occasions that simply removing, then reinstalling memory on a previously hanging post would alleviate the problem, also, if the motherboard is working, it would be beeping to let you know which component isn't working .
If you have access to another working motherboard, install each component, one by one, this would weed out the errant component.
It would also be a good idea to invest in a power supply tester, I picked one up from ebay for around £4 - what a life saver!
If you have access to another working motherboard, install each component, one by one, this would weed out the errant component.
It would also be a good idea to invest in a power supply tester, I picked one up from ebay for around £4 - what a life saver!
Don't use a jumper for power on switch
Don't use a jumper for power on switch. That could very well be your whole problem here. It should be a momentary switch not a continuous jumper connection. You could put the jumper on then remove it quickly or you could connect a chassis power switch for power ups on the bench top like that.
Don't use a jumper for power on switch. That could very well be your whole problem here. It should be a momentary switch not a continuous jumper connection. You could put the jumper on then remove it quickly or you could connect a chassis power switch for power ups on the bench top like that.
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