PC boots up but no display and no keyboard or mouse light

I have been having the weirdest problem I have ever encountered dealing with my computer.
So I have an old build i5 2400 8GB of ddr3 Ram , two hard drives a 1TB Segate and a 320gb Hitachi all running off of an OCZ CXS 500w psu and plugged in to the Asrock H61m VS motherboard.
My problems started once I sold my GTX 650ti boost Graphics Card which I had for years running in that build.
As soon as I took it off the system and gave it to it's new owner I tried to boot up off of the i5 2400 integrated graphics which worked just fine and I was able to boot normally and even watch some netflix but after 30 minutes or so the screen went blank (NOT BLACK) it was still lit up but there was nothing on the screen. I tried to move the mouse, clicking CTRL ALT DEL... nothing worked so I shut down the pc and boot it again and there I couldn't for the life of me get it to post.
So that's what I got: All the fans are spinning , hard drives are spinning and even the led's on my back chassis fan are glowing but my monitor is not turning on at all.
I can see the blue led in the lower right hand corner blinking constantly but the monitor wouldn't turn on. I tried to force turn it on by holding its tactile button for a few second then holding it again but that didn't work. My monitor is a 22 inch Samsung S20A300e it has a VGA and a DVI ports in the back.
My motherboad supports VGA only but before I sold my graphics card I was using a VGA to DVI adapter to plug in my 650ti boost and VGA to plug in my monitor which worked just fine.
What I have tried for the last couple of days:
-Resetting the ram / trying to use one Ram at the time
-Removing the CMOS battery leaving it for 5 minutes and holding the computer's power button for 30 seconds then putting the battery back in its correct place
-Changing the CMOS jumper's placement from pin 1 and 2 to 2 and 3
-Trying to use a graphics card (Gtx 1650) which I borrowed from my cousin and running it with a HDMI cable with a different samsung monitor which has an HDMI port (NO adapters)
-Trying to boot without any hard drives attached
After trying all of this nothing worked permanently, I have been able to enter the bios on a couple of occasions and I enabled the IGPU multimonitor setting and I even got into windows and was able to use the pc normally browsing the internet all using my VGA cable directly plugged to the motherboard and my sansung S20A300e VGA port.
But after I shut down my computer last night and wanted to boot it up this morning I got the same problem PC is seemingly booting up and all the fans are spînning but I got no display on my monitor, also my mouse and keyboard are not lighting up either.
All help is appreciated.

Cycloid Torus

Posts: 4,845   +1,665
Troubleshooting an old PC can be very difficult.

In your situation there are 'goals' to work to:
[1] POST - by removing all the 'extra stuff' except CPU/heatsink and PSU and then giving it power - it should give you beep codes indicating the error it 'found' - then turning power off and putting in the 'broken' part (it being 'broken' because you had removed it) and (hopefully) moving to the next error - repeat until POST
[2] BIOS - at this point just after POST you should get BIOS screen - if you left pin '2 and 3' connected, you must return it to '1 and 2' and you should reach BIOS - check thoroughly for proper settings, especially your boot order and the recognition of the boot drive - if these are correct, you should achieve BOOT
[3] BOOT should allow you to navigate your storage and to confirm it is operating properly (CHKDSK /f, etc) - if you have POST and BIOS, but not BOOT, I would be very suspicious of your boot record, which may need repair.

Why go through all this if it might be this or that? The most impossible situation is when there are TWO things which need to be corrected. This helps avoid that.

One last thought - if this doesn't work, there is another approach - to remove things piece by piece and test them in a similar known working system. A third approach is to obtain known good components and swap them in your system. Both of these are somewhat flawed as they may never resolve the errors if there are two.

I've had this proven when I had simultaneous errors (one was a bad power switch) which took me almost 3 days to find.

See also: https://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000607.htm


Posts: 18,543   +7,376
@Cloe1994 With no keyboard or mouse lights, the first thing I would check., is if one section of the power supply is dead. See if you can beg, borrow, or buy a small digital multi meter. (If there's a Harbor Freight near you, their $5.00 (or thereabouts) meter will do just fine.

Black is ground, as is the case. You're going to set the meter to +20 DC scale, and simply stick any molex (4 wire) connector from the back, (making sure you get the meter leads in deep enough to hit the metal connectors inside the shell) The red and yellow wires are hot. (Red is 5 volts, yellow should be 12 volts). I can't categorically state that's what's wrong, but you do have to rule the PSU out before going any further.

Sometimes there are extra unused power connectors, and they would be easier to get to.

FWIW, the fans are on the 12 volt tap, so the +5 volt section could be the problem. I've had a PSU fail, got no POST, but the fans were spinning like crazy.

I borrowed this from somewhere:

These are the same for all ATX power supplies: 3.3V wires are orange; +5V wires are red; -5V wires (if they are present) are white; +12V wires are yellow; -12V wires are blue; ground wires are black.

Who knows, maybe I made a lucky guess.
Update: I went through and tried unplugging every single cable in the motherboard and re-plugging them back.
Now I am getting an error beep code which 5 consecutive short beeps I initially thought this was the ram code but after re seating the ram modules and putting them back one at the time I still get the same five beeps. I am lost! please help.


Posts: 18,543   +7,376
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I have actually took the whole pc to a friend's house so we can diagnose using his parts.
Results: My psu is fine he tried his and it yield no difference.
He tried his RX 580 in my system and it worked fine although we couldn't try the on-board VGA port in my motherboard because he had no monitors that have VGA in them only HDMI and DVI :/
Also the beeping sound (5 beeps) continued to happen before the one beep posting sound.
Now I can get my keyboard and mouse to lit up as normal and hear the 5 beeps followed by the post beep and eventually my pc boots up to windows however I cannot see anything on the screen as usual using the VGA cable directly from my motherboard to my monitor.
Seems like the only way to see an image is by using a dedicated graphics card in the PCIE slot.
My guess is that I need to enter the bios and change the allocated memory for the on board graphics from Auto (default) to another figure because according to my motherboard's manual setting it to auto disables VGA.
The second theory is that the VGA port is physically damaged.


Posts: 18,543   +7,376
I would think there's a co-processor, (some nameless IC, or a name which means nothing to us mortals), at the board's video outputs, which could in fact, be bad. As we determined by the 5 beep code signifying, "process error".

With 8 GB of RAM, you certainly have enough to support onboard graphics, without interfering with your normal operations. (that's obviously "ostensibly", assuming it's working).

At this point, I'm completely baffled as to why Asus chose to only offer VGA output with the onboard graphics.. I have a system based on Intel G-31 (muy viejo), and even it has VGA & DVI taps.My board with an i3-3225 has 4 video outs, VGA, DVI, HDMI, and Display port. But then, I only build with Gigabyte boards.

I had an EVGA 750 ti fail on me during a memory upgrade, and thought it was the board.I yanked the video card, plugged into the IGP and "wha-lah", let there be light, and I saw the light and it was good.

The card failed over several failed attempts at fully booting into Windows, finally going black.

It may be time to dust off somebody's credit card and see if you can find a 1050 (or 1050 ti) around at a reasonable price. Either will outperform your older card.

A word of caution, the graphics section in your 2400 could have failed as well. I'm guessing the CPU was running a bit hotter with the graphics in use.

It might be prudent to reseat the HSF, along with a fresh coat of thermal paste.

Here again, that might not be an issue, but it never hurts to err on the safe side