(I just got back from a USAskills competition in Greenville and got 2nd place in technical Math) What do you mean block the trem?halo71 said:Nick, another thing you could do is block that trem. That would keep it from going out of tune so easily. You want the trem to be setting level with the body really.
um... Thank you. :haha:captaincranky said:Nick; I takes a good man to admit what you did about tone and switch thingy.
Shameless too!
captaincranky said:>>> Truss<<< rods (not) "trust" rods, and they run through the neck to set the bend in the neck which I described in my earlier post. The adjustment for the truss rods is under the little plate on the headstock.
It isn't any hard and fixed rule that using the same guage strings will warp a neck. They used to say to tune the guitar down when your not using it, but that just cycles stress and relief which isn't any good either.
Just put the guitar in a quality case while you're not using it. By quality, I mean one of the insulated plastic cases that prevent sudden changes of temperature and humidity.
I would argue against really thin string sets, since guitar playing is a physical activity. It's a good idea to play an accoustic instrument from time to time.It builds muscles and stamina in those muscles. Electrics with hair thin strings don't do this. Sort of like swinging two bats before going to the plate.
I would also further argue that if you can go on about how good you are at math, it really shouldn't be that dificult to learn to measure 3/32 of an inch or whatever.
captaincranky said:Some players use the lower tunings anyway, due to the fact most baritones can't hit the top "G" in the G open chord.
captaincranky said:Then there's the 12 string, which should actually be tuned 2 to 4 half steps lower than the E to E of standard guitar tuning. Somewhere from D to D and C to C. Then you use a capo the bring it up to standard pitch when playing. Most acoustic twelves won't survive very long tuned to "concert pitch". Not to mention they're almost impossible to finger. Try a bar chord on a pitched up 12, get to know what pain is.
halo71 said:Nick, blocking the tremelo means that you set it where it cant pull up or dive. For example, the Floyd Rose trem's on any of my 4 vintage Kramer guitars floats on the trem post and back springs. If I blocked them, they are still set up the same way just the trem will not move. Some do this when they have tuning issues. But if you know what you are doing with a Floyd Rose trem this is not needed. Blocking the trem can be done with a tremsetter or even shims or smal blocks of wood set between the tremelo baseplate and the body of the guitar in the trem route.
For fret buzz....what you describe could be several things as pretty much already said. The tremelo may need raised, the frets may need a dressing (DO NOT ATTEMPT YOURSELF!), fret job (replacing frets). Truss rod may need adjusting as well. You may also need to remove the neck and place a thin shim in the rear of the neck pocket. On a guitar as old as yours, a fret dressing may be in order. Look closely at them, is there any pitting or valley's on the frets?
In my years of playing guitar, adjustment of the rod or raising the trem a little corrects this issue. Truss rod adjustment is done at the headstock end under the truss rod cover, or at the heal of the neck. I would imagine yours is at the head stock though.
EDIT: Remeber, the old Tokai's today are pretty collectible and some are worth a good bit. If I were you, I would take that guitar to a reputable guitar tech and have it set up properly. You'd be amazed at how much better a guitar sounds and plays when its intonated right and everything is set properly.
halo71 said:huh??? Are you quoting this from somewhere or what?