Will a CPU with integrated graphics work with my motherboard?

Yea man. I was considering that. But I would rather have a whole new setup if im getting a case. If I am a total lazy *** I will use my current drives and such and switch em up. But yea as he said, whole new game for me lol. Don't want to over complicate things for myself. I will just go for what I currently am doing. Haven't ordered it yet, but plan to soon. Newegg should suffice.
 
Hello all, I received my processor and all. But I am in a bit of a pickle here. The heat sink it came with doesn't seem to fit onto my motherboard. The original heat sink that was on my motherboard screwed into it. There was no bracket for anything to lock into. Oddly enough the heat sink that came with the processor has a latch and nothing on my motherboard to latch onto. So the only option I can think of is using the original heatsink, but that would void the warranty.

Is there no way around this? Is there something I am missing? Should I just go for broke and get some thermal paste and self apply on the new processor?
If so, would you recommend I clean off the gunk on the heat sink before applying my thermal paste?
 
Why would using the original heatsink void the warranty?

You can use aftermarket HSFs without voiding any warranty. You would only, "void the warranty", if you screwed up the install and the CPU burned up, you bent pins on the CPU, issues along those lines.

The new CPU should have exactly the same package dimensions as the old one.

Some manufacturers have boards built to their specs, and modifying the mounting strategy for the HSF is a prime target. My eMachines sports an Intel board, but the HSF is a proprietary / modified Cooler Master unit.

Everybody bitches about the Intel clip mount HSF, eMachines did something about it.

You should be good to go with your original CPU cooler, PROVIDED THAT the new CPU has the same TDP (wattage) as the CPU it's replacing.

Disclaimer: Sorry, I don't speak AMD. Someone else would be better to deal with the finer points of the power / wattage / heat production issue.

I will say this, if you're going from a dual core to a quad core CPU, the wattage draws are generally a fair amount higher.

I still think you should replace the case.
 
This is what you are missing, and like the Crabby Captain ;) said, it's either because you removed it or it was part of the proprietary motherboard. You said you're not overclocking and your options are likely very limited if not completely neutered with an OEM machine anyway. just about any third party HS/F will work that will dissipate 100W



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Yea all true. I will just place the old heat sink back on. Just gonna clean the old heatsink with isopropyl and put on some thermal.
 
Got everything in. Is there any tests I should run to test if the processor is satisfactory?
I think I got the thermal paste job down fine it was just putting it back in was the hard part.
 
Got everything in. Is there any tests I should run to test if the processor is satisfactory?
Gee gosh, I don't know. Hit the power button maybe?

Use whatever software you have to monitor CPU temperature, and play whatever games were giving you trouble before.

This really a project where you're going to want or need to spend big bucks on benchmarking software.
 
Don't be a wise *** you know what I meant. Derp I know to turn it on. Just wanted to know about diagnostics....
BTW thank you all for the help. Huge help. Happy holidays!
You are all wise and amazing.:mad:
 
Don't be a wise *** you know what I meant. Derp I know to turn it on. Just wanted to know about diagnostics....
BTW thank you all for the help. Huge help. Happy holidays!
You are all wise and amazing.:mad:
No, I actually don't know what you meant. The CPU is either installed correctly, or it isn't. There's no way to "test" for that. You should have whatever software is available to monitor CPU temp running, in case you screwed up the TIM. But here, the CPU will let you know if you screwed that up. It'll shut down if the temp goes too high. If the BIOS is correct for the new CPU, it should run fine.

Right click on "Computer", then click on "properties". The first screen you come to will tell you what Windows thinks the CPU is, and what speed it's running at.

Thus far, you've peppered this thread with nonsense like, "if I use the stock heaksink, it'll void the warranty, et al".

We've been treated to some insight on just how lazy you are, again, et al.

Changing a CPU really is a 15 minute job (*). So let me repeat that, hit the power button, and go play your games. That is a diagnostic test. And before I forget, "Merry Christmas".

(*) Worse case, first time, extra care scenario, would be an hour, tops.
 
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