Athlon XP 2600+, 170'F, Window's wont boot

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acidosmosis

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I just upgraded from my Athlon XP 2100 with 512MB of PC2100, to an Athlon XP 2600 (model 8) with 512MB of Corsair PC2700.

After installing the processor and RAM I set the front side bus for 166mhz (since the processor and RAM is 333mhz).

I was able to boot up find, but right after POST when Windows was supposed to start loading I got a black screen and my monitor turned off (like my PC was off).

So, then I set the processor and RAM for 133mhz FSB again so I could figure out what was going on and make sure I could boot into Windows XP (which I could, otherwise I wouldn't be typing this right now).

The processor detects as a 2600+ when I set the FSB for 166 (333), I just can't load Windows and when I check CMOS I see that it is running at 170'F.
 
Almost all mobos now a days, will do what you said, make the screen just go completly black, however your PC will remain on, when your CPU is overheating. This is the mobos protection, making sure your CPU doesnt fry. If its 170'F at 133FSB your cooler most probbly isnt seated properly.

When I changed coolers, and forgot to plug the fan into my mobo, the comp stayed on for 10minz or so, then the screen went black, but the computer LED was still lit up indicating it was on. So I recon you get the problem you do, at 333FSB, becasue your CPU is overheating (then being saved from the mobos cpu protection). So i'd check that your cooler is seated properly, spinning (the fan), and you didnt forget anything like thermal paste when you swapped cpus.
 
I believe the problem is fixed.

When the settings were set for Auto, or User at 166mhz FSB I had these problems so I started conducting some experiements.

I changed the settings in CMOS to aggressive so that I could change the FSB in increments of 1mhz.

This is what I got:

FSB
150MHz 122'F Windows Loads Fine
155MHz 114'F Windows Loads Fine
160MHz 114'F Windows Loads Fine
163MHz 114'F Windows Loads Fine
165MHz 114'F Windows Loads Fine
166MHz 114'F Windows Loads Fine

So, after I changed the settings to Agressive I was finally able to boot into Windows with a decent temperature. This is VERY weird but for some reason the temperature was very high with Auto or User settings (which only allow you to change from 100/133/etc). Aggressive lets you change the FSB in increments of 1mhz.

After that I had reboot problems but after talking with Tarkus who has the same motherboard and processor as I do, I got that fixed it seems because I haven't had a reboot in a while now.
The RAM timings were incorrect in CMOS.

Old Timings:
7-3-3-2.5

New Timings:
6-3-3-2

The processor I am using is a Athlon XP 2600+ (model 8) and the RAM is Corsair XMS 2700C2PT.


Hopefully this will help someone in the future. If I have any more problems I'll post it here.
 
Well it looks as though I am still having problems. When running Battlefield 1942 it crashed during a single player game loading and when I tried to load a Internet server list.

Plus, several applications shut down when trying to load them.
 
Well the 2600+ should be a barton core with the tasty .13 micron which can be overclocked quite nicely, It's a really nice cost : performance upgrade, since you can easily get the low grade barton's up to 3200+ range
 
Originally posted by Svoboda
Well the 2600+ should be a barton core with the tasty .13 micron which can be overclocked quite nicely, It's a really nice cost : performance upgrade, since you can easily get the low grade barton's up to 3200+ range

The 2600+ Bartons use the new AMD PCBs where it's very hard to unlock multipliers. The 2500+ is still the best if you intend to OC, but it's not very easy to find.
 
Originally posted by Didou
The 2600+ Bartons use the new AMD PCBs where it's very hard to unlock multipliers. The 2500+ is still the best if you intend to OC, but it's not very easy to find.

almost positive you cant get a Barton 2600+

Acid, why dont you try to get an RMA on your mobo? I know thats sorta of last resort but what could the problem be? Sounds like a bad mobo to begin with.
 
Do my eyes decieve me ??? ;)

Showimage.asp
 
barton 2600+? not that i no off - 2600+ are throughbread - get a 2500+ and up the FSB to 200 and the core volts to 1.725 - a 3200+ for £75!!! no probs

Steg
 
wow, saw the pic couldnt believe it, so i went to newegg scearched it in and sure enough :) I feel bad for my friend, he got a 2600 not too long ago, and its not a barton (his cost $98 too). O'well ;)
 
Originally posted by ---agissi---
almost positive you cant get a Barton 2600+

Acid, why dont you try to get an RMA on your mobo? I know thats sorta of last resort but what could the problem be? Sounds like a bad mobo to begin with.

Well I contacted Asus tech support. I told them most of what I have tried (which is a LOT) and they immediately said RMA the board so I tried more than they can possibly ever think of trying. Tech support rep's don't know much anyway.

I just decided to use this board for my office with my 2100+ processor. I dont have any problems at 266mhz FSB.

Also ordered a A7N8X (non -X) yesterday which will replace this one in my main PC.
 
2600+Barton ?

That had to be a big time Typeo on someones part.
Wierd.
XP2500 tops the 2600 but I beleive the 2600 still cost more.
I have three systems,two with the Bartons ,
2500,2600 (both stock speeds),3000 is wire tricked to a 3200 10.5x410. Best Bang for the buck is the 2500.
I have seen the 2500 Barton O/C'd beyond the 3200 range by others but my daughters use them and I keep the O/C away for solid stability.
Good luck with your new board.
 
Update:

After installing a new motherboard (the A7N8X) I applied some thermal paste to the processor core and now my stability problems seem to have disappeared. Although I still have some weird problem where my temperatures are being reported wrong.
At one time BIOS was reporting my temperatures as around 80-90'F. Sometimes MBM reports the temp as 114'F. Considering I am running a Athlon XP 2600+ it is nearly impossible that I am getting temperatures of 90'F in my opinion. Also for some reason the Asus temp. diode disappeared from MBM earlier.

So far so good though it looks like I have a nice system going for me now as long as nothing else goes wrong.

I did have a problem earlier where my computer kept shutting down but it turns out it was the power strip I was using.
 
You sure? That just seemed like very low temperatures to me. Unheard of even. My instinct tells me both mine and his temperature readings are off :p.
 
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