In a world where a decent graphics card can cost the same as a new cutting-edge console, you'd be forgiven for thinking that $500 just isn't enough money to buy a PC and play games on it. So, can it be done?
In a world where a decent graphics card can cost the same as a new cutting-edge console, you'd be forgiven for thinking that $500 just isn't enough money to buy a PC and play games on it. So, can it be done?
"We've purposely not considered second hand parts for our $500 build for one simple reason: the cost for a lot of items, even those 4 or 5 years old, is still surprising high."
When did you do this? If bought this within the last five years, both the CPU and GPU would be terrible for gaming. It also depends on which Core2Duo because a Wolfdale E8400 is VERY diffrent from a Conroe E6300 despite them both being Core2Duos. As for the HD 4350, well, of course it's going to suck because that's not a gaming card.I bought computer with a Core 2 Duo CPU but because I didn't have extra $50 I bought an ATI HD4350 which was disaster for gaming. If you are on a budget just be patient a little until you can add $ 100-200 graphics card that will change the performance significantly.
I was not aiming for cheap card (2009). I just ment that cus I did not have extra 50 $ I was forced to buy something terrible so my advice is: always if u cant buy something good it is better to be patient and wait until you get extra $$ to buy good one.When did you do this? If bought this within the last five years, both the CPU and GPU would be terrible for gaming. It also depends on which Core2Duo because a Wolfdale E8400 is VERY diffrent from a Conroe E6300 despite them both being Core2Duos. As for the HD 4350, well, of course it's going to suck because that's not a gaming card.
The old ATi HD nomenclature was actually a meaningful numbering system. After the HD, this is what things meant:
The first digit indicates the generation
The second digit indicates the series, the card's intended purpose:
9 = Dual GPU (HD 5970)
8 = Top-level enthusiast gaming (HD 4870)
7 = Specialty (HD 4770)
6 = Mainstream Gaming (HD 4650)
5 = Budget Gaming (HD 4550)
4 = Multimedia (HD 5450)
3 = Office use and top-end IGP (HD 4350, HD 3300)
2 = Mid-range IGP (HD 3200)
1 = Budget IGP (HD 3100)
The last two digits are actually a single two-digit number that indicates the card's rank in their series. The numbers were always multiples of ten with the first digit being odd:
90 = King of the hill
70 = High End
50 = Mid Range (Also the number used if there was only one card in the series, like HD 5450)
30 = Entry Level
So your HD 4350 was a fourth generation video card that came out in 2008 and was never designed for gaming, even when it was new. It was designed for office use even back then so it's no wonder that it sucked at gaming because it would have even back in 2008. You see, there's a difference between being frugal and cheaping-yourself-to-death. You cheaped yourself to death.
Although I laughed out loud at your last sentence..can't get much cheaper than me.When did you do this? If bought this within the last five years, both the CPU and GPU would be terrible for gaming. It also depends on which Core2Duo because a Wolfdale E8400 is VERY diffrent from a Conroe E6300 despite them both being Core2Duos. As for the HD 4350, well, of course it's going to suck because that's not a gaming card.
The old ATi HD nomenclature was actually a meaningful numbering system. After the HD, this is what things meant:
The first digit indicates the generation
The second digit indicates the series, the card's intended purpose:
9 = Dual GPU (HD 5970)
8 = Top-level enthusiast gaming (HD 4870)
7 = Specialty (HD 4770)
6 = Mainstream Gaming (HD 4650)
5 = Budget Gaming (HD 4550)
4 = Multimedia (HD 5450)
3 = Office use and top-end IGP (HD 4350, HD 3300)
2 = Mid-range IGP (HD 3200)
1 = Budget IGP (HD 3100)
The last two digits are actually a single two-digit number that indicates the card's rank in their series. The numbers were always multiples of ten with the first digit being odd:
90 = King of the hill
70 = High End
50 = Mid Range (Also the number used if there was only one card in the series, like HD 5450)
30 = Entry Level
So your HD 4350 was a fourth generation video card that came out in 2008 and was never designed for gaming, even when it was new. It was designed for office use even back then so it's no wonder that it sucked at gaming because it would have even back in 2008. You see, there's a difference between being frugal and cheaping-yourself-to-death. You cheaped yourself to death.
Unfortunately, the Ryzen 3 3100 doesn't have an integrated GPU and it's also slightly more expensive than the 3200G on the likes of Amazon and Newegg. Absolutely it's a better processor, but if one was really capped to $500 with a monitor, then it wouldn't be an option. Drop the monitor, though, and there could be enough budget left for a second hand Radeon RX 480, for example.I'm sorry, but for option 2 it makes no sense to take the 3200G. The 3100 is faster, newer and cheaper. It has a Zen2 core instead of a Zen+.
Ah, ok. Well, at least now you know how to read those old HD part numbers so you don't get completely screwed next time. You're 100% correct though because something that would cost maybe $100 would've been far better. To be honest, the HD 4350 would be worth maybe $10 today. For $50, you should have been able to get at least a Radeon HD 5870. I hope that it helps because it's really old and (mostly) useless knowledge at this point.I was not aiming for cheap card (2009). I just ment that cus I did not have extra 50 $ I was forced to buy something terrible so my advice is: always if u cant buy something good it is better to be patient and wait until you get extra $$ to buy good one.
You pay the same amount of tax on a $500 prebuilt as you do on $500 of individual components. And if you order on Amazon shipping is often free. And as the article mentioned, you can get really cheap Windows keys in a lot of places, but you don't even have to activate Windows to use it. As far as prebuilts giving you a better value, unless you're buying from a small shop like Cyberpower or Maingear, you're going to get the cheapest motherboard, CPU cooler, and power supply the OEM can source, which means your future upgrade options are basically zero. They do get bulk pricing on parts, but you still end up paying more for the same specs because you have to pay them to put it together and set it up for you. And any prebuilt in the $500 range is going to have integrated graphics too, as well as single channel memory (which will severely hamper integrated GPU performance) and likely only one storage device, either a hard drive or a small SSD. But yeah, if you're going to be gaming $500 isn't going to get you very far. Bump it up to around $700-800 and you get a lot more performance.But when you say gaming PC I think what needs to happen is the resolution that you intend to play at needs to be at the very beginning of the term “gaming PC“.
Building a 1080P gaming PC is a hell of a lot cheaper than building a 1440P gaming PC or a 4K gaming PC.
In fact: now that we have the 3090 claiming “8K gaming” I can also use the term “8K gaming PC“.
if I was one of these manufacturers I would actually slap a small sticker on my computers that told everybody exactly what kind of gaming PC it was. The target would be 60 FPS gaming so I would have a sticker that says “4k@60fps” for example.
$500 also seems a bit low to me considering that just about every part that you put into a computer including the operating system is more than likely going to cost more than $apiece.
I disagree with the assertion that pre-builds are a bad idea because getting all of these parts, having them shipped and paying tax on them is more than likely going to exceed $500 especially when you factor in that the operating system alone is going to cost you close to $100.
A pre-build in a store like HP/Dell or Asus is usually purchased in bulk and then slashed in price during sale periods.
HP typically has $800 gaming PCs that steadily depreciate until a major sale like Black Friday or President’s week.
That means that it’s possible to get a gaming PC with a graphic card like a 1550, 155Ti, 1660 Ti or 1060 once they go on discounts. And that’s simply so the store can clear them out of inventory.
The reality is you ain’t really “PC gaming” on no $500 unless you make major sacrifices.
You can’t even buy many of these games anymore for less than $80 because they hit you over the head for the full edition of the game.
Well I'll dip my hardware in a deep bowl of soya sauce and get on with then.Gaming for $500 is a real stretch. For people with super-tight budgets those in the first place should never consider in purchasing 'risky product keys' for Windows 10 and with most of those coming from China. Yes the price sounds good but 75% of the time there are registration problems and no direct Microsoft support will ever be made available. Simply Bill Gates did not get your business and to be sure I am not a friend of Bill Gates and company. There is no such thing with a 'grey-market-key' for a quick phone call to the Microsoft's support to activate the key and once done you'll be good to go. Microsoft reading the key will know in a heartbeat where you are coming from. Then transferring your Chinese OS validation to another new PC in the future is a sticky point as well! End result: For the less fortunate man on the street taking a hit even for $30-plus is a big deal. Was glad to see that 'Pre-build' ideas were out and that DIY was recommened. Most and especially USA branded pre-builds come with upwards of 35%-40% markup considering that the botique shops reap big discounts on the hardware side alone. Further they are not proffering the most up-to-date & cutting-edge hardware and building-choices. Technology simply moves too fast and their older stock needs depleting first. In that option #1 has merit as most of the newer processors with integrated graphics work just fine for casual gaming. It's even more than good enough for most Adobe programs. Saving Money: Many of us and the less privileged like me more frequently than not shop 'Amazon Warehouse' for used and returned electronics, but do forgo any of the special ready to go out of the box HP/Dell (Black Friday deals) since they are all propiatary hardware based with no system repair or upgrade future.
There actually is a specific phone number you call for Microsoft product activation. The activation wizard will give you the number if your key fails to activate. It's all automated. Most of the time they keys you're buying aren't stolen or already used, and Microsoft doesn't really have a way to track keys except for which ones have been used and which haven't. Anyway, you call the number, get an automated menu, go through a few options and they send you a link. You go there, enter the installation ID and if it's approved they'll send you a code to enter to complete activation. I've done this at work dozens of times, failure rate is minimal.Gaming for $500 is a real stretch. For people with super-tight budgets those in the first place should never consider in purchasing 'risky product keys' for Windows 10 and with most of those coming from China. Yes the price sounds good but 75% of the time there are registration problems and no direct Microsoft support will ever be made available. Simply Bill Gates did not get your business and to be sure I am not a friend of Bill Gates and company. There is no such thing with a 'grey-market-key' for a quick phone call to the Microsoft's support to activate the key and once done you'll be good to go. Microsoft reading the key will know in a heartbeat where you are coming from. Then transferring your Chinese OS validation to another new PC in the future is a sticky point as well! End result: For the less fortunate man on the street taking a hit even for $30-plus is a big deal. Was glad to see that 'Pre-build' ideas were out and that DIY was recommened. Most and especially USA branded pre-builds come with upwards of 35%-40% markup considering that the botique shops reap big discounts on the hardware side alone. Further they are not proffering the most up-to-date & cutting-edge hardware and building-choices. Technology simply moves too fast and their older stock needs depleting first. In that option #1 has merit as most of the newer processors with integrated graphics work just fine for casual gaming. It's even more than good enough for most Adobe programs. Saving Money: Many of us and the less privileged like me more frequently than not shop 'Amazon Warehouse' for used and returned electronics, but do forgo any of the special ready to go out of the box HP/Dell (Black Friday deals) since they are all propiatary hardware based with no system repair or upgrade future.
That's not so bad. If your friend's cast-off stuff wasn't more than seven years old, it would still be useable. I agree that building a console-killer is VERY hard these days but you have to keep one VERY important thing in mind.Although I laughed out loud at your last sentence..can't get much cheaper than me.
My old pal gave me his cast off video cards when he upgraded.
He gave me motherboards(rarely fail),memory(rarer to fail) and psu's too.
The mighty 7970 he gave me fried itself from the outside in thanks to a bad case.
Getting back to the article it is getting harder to build a console killer even before the console is out in the wild.
I don't know where you get your "information" but I've been using Windows 10 Pro that I got using a key from Kinguin back in March of 2017 and I live in Canada. I set it up exactly as Nick described and it was downright easy. I've used it since then on both my R7-1700 and now my R5-3600X without any issues whatsoever. Well, no issues that weren't caused by Windows just being Windows anyway.Gaming for $500 is a real stretch. For people with super-tight budgets those in the first place should never consider in purchasing 'risky product keys' for Windows 10 and with most of those coming from China. Yes the price sounds good but 75% of the time there are registration problems and no direct Microsoft support will ever be made available. Simply Bill Gates did not get your business and to be sure I am not a friend of Bill Gates and company. There is no such thing with a 'grey-market-key' for a quick phone call to the Microsoft's support to activate the key and once done you'll be good to go. Microsoft reading the key will know in a heartbeat where you are coming from. Then transferring your Chinese OS validation to another new PC in the future is a sticky point as well! End result: For the less fortunate man on the street taking a hit even for $30-plus is a big deal. Was glad to see that 'Pre-build' ideas were out and that DIY was recommened. Most and especially USA branded pre-builds come with upwards of 35%-40% markup considering that the botique shops reap big discounts on the hardware side alone. Further they are not proffering the most up-to-date & cutting-edge hardware and building-choices. Technology simply moves too fast and their older stock needs depleting first. In that option #1 has merit as most of the newer processors with integrated graphics work just fine for casual gaming. It's even more than good enough for most Adobe programs. Saving Money: Many of us and the less privileged like me more frequently than not shop 'Amazon Warehouse' for used and returned electronics, but do forgo any of the special ready to go out of the box HP/Dell (Black Friday deals) since they are all propiatary hardware based with no system repair or upgrade future.