I recently received a 5 year(roughly) old computer for my birthday, it worked completely fine for a month or so, but then when I started the computer the hard drive wouldn’t spin, usb devices wouldn’t work, and the monitor couldn’t connect to the computer. What is the problem, and how would I fix it?
Hard drive not spinning
- Thread starter User365
- Start date
Ok thanks, that’s what we thought, we just wanted to make sure!
captaincranky
Posts: 19,684 +8,825
FWIW, (and if you're near a Harbor Freight store) They sell a very inexpensive digital multi meter. It's running around $7.00 ATM. Ir's the ideal tool to check PSU voltages, as well as auto charging voltages, and many other chore requiring measuring AC / DC voltages, and resistance.
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Kshipper
Posts: 943 +227
...and while the multimeter is useful, I have had power supplies that could give me the right voltage on any rail I checked, but under load, it would fail. I don't have a PSU tester that can put a load on, so I have no choice but to rely on a gut feeling when I am servicing PCs to swap out it out for a known-good one. =)
captaincranky
Posts: 19,684 +8,825
Well, you're assuming our TS has a "known good" PSU laying around the house in the first place. Although I quite agree, having a spare on hand is a very good idea.
You can't check a fully unloaded PSU while it's still in the machine anyway.
In the case of, a "it won't boot", one (or possibly more) rail is likely dead. Sticking a spare molex with the machine running for 5 & 12 v readings is certainly easier than R & R on a PSU.(As long as one doesn't forget to have an anti-static wristband on call).
IIRC, I began my post with a "FWIW", and a simple suggestion that a $7.00 multimeter was a handy thing to have around, not as a be all, end all, for all situations.
Every time I'm asked for a hot shot, I stick the car's battery for a reading of the charging voltage, to rule out whether the battery or the alternator is at fault. That eliminates a trip to the shop for the car owner, and a second request for my assistance. Win, win.
You can't check a fully unloaded PSU while it's still in the machine anyway.
In the case of, a "it won't boot", one (or possibly more) rail is likely dead. Sticking a spare molex with the machine running for 5 & 12 v readings is certainly easier than R & R on a PSU.(As long as one doesn't forget to have an anti-static wristband on call).
IIRC, I began my post with a "FWIW", and a simple suggestion that a $7.00 multimeter was a handy thing to have around, not as a be all, end all, for all situations.
Every time I'm asked for a hot shot, I stick the car's battery for a reading of the charging voltage, to rule out whether the battery or the alternator is at fault. That eliminates a trip to the shop for the car owner, and a second request for my assistance. Win, win.
Kshipper
Posts: 943 +227
Oh thats fine Cap-Crank...I just tossed my two cents in since I do IT for a living..not really dissing your advice. =)
