Nice article Trey, and cool to see a known photographer writing an article at my long time favorite tech site.
Step 4 : Storage
"WD My Cloud PR2100 NAS
WD My Book Pro
WD My Passport Wireless Pro"
For you I'd guess there are still residual effect sfrom being a "Mac" user. WD MyBook products have a Mac styling and similar look to AirPort. I've had WD MyBook products in the past and they are quite simple to set up and go. but as soon as there is a problem or you want to have more precise control over things the basic WD interfaces (they may have improved but never seen much recommendation for their stuff in recent years) don't do you any favors. I guess you wanted a time machine/airport type solution.
I would say that Synology, QNAP, Drobo or even Netgear NAS would have been a better choice. I'm sure many tech enthusiasts would agree.
Step 6 : Get your color right
"By default, your new PC will have a different color profile than your Mac. At the very least you’ll have to open your color preferences and adjust the saturation until it is the same as your Mac. I recommend you pull up your 10 favorite photos and put them side by side, adjusting the saturation and color on your new PC until they are the same. Even though this system is calibrated at the factory by MSI (and has built in color profiles) this is a mistake I made and for about a week, my photos were a bit off and more de-saturated than I like. I only noticed when I looked on my wife’s mac and my photos looked less colorful than I preferred."
For someone with an established photography career this seems quite lackadaisical. Even if you aren't calibrating for screen to home printed consistency, you shouldn't be adjusting the display just for your preference. I've seen this suggested in the past "get your favorite photos up and adjust your screen until they are how you remember then in real life" or "adjust them until you like them". Adjustments to them to get them "how you like them" should be done in the editing software, not the calibration of your monitor. You should be calibrating with a tool such as i1Display Pro, Colormunki or Spyder devices, and on a regular basis. Your photos might look just how you want them on your device, but then they are going to look considerably different on other calibrated screens and devices from what you see on your screen and possibly in print.
To quote myself under my other posting name used at dpreview.com :
Bonus Step 8 – Use your Nvidia graphics card with Adobe products
The major benefit in calibrating is that your photo will look the same on other calibrated monitors. Deciding you don't like the calibration and adjusting your monitor/calibration would result in the image appearing differently to other users viewing it on calibrated monitors and when you print it. Would it not be of more use to adjust the image's saturation to be as you wish it to be so that others using calibrated equipment will not see an over saturated, too red picture?
Saying calibration is an approximation to me seems counter intuitive. To me adjusting the calibration to what you consider displayed a single "familiar scene photo" to look correct would be the approximation. The calibration process is performed to give you a consistent base for working from that will result in expected results across other calibrated equipment (printers, other displays, other users calibrated displays/devices) rather than providing a "looks like the real life scene to me" preference, that is for you to achieve when editing. By adjusting the calibration to one familiar scene that was at a certain time of day, with one particular white balance, and possible reflected colours from objects within the scene, etc. etc. etc. you really aren't going to be getting a useful calibration in my mind.
"This wasn’t obvious and was nowhere in the documentation. But the MSI computer has a “GFX” button under the power button to the left of the keyboard. When you click that, it asks you to reboot to use the fast Nvidia card at all times. This can have performance benefits in some applications such as Lightroom which by default use the less powerful Intel GPU rather than auto switch to the Nvidia which happens when gaming. Now I just keep that Nvidia GPU on all the time (no need to reboot). On the downside, it eats up more battery, but I am connected to power most of the time."
Both Nvidia and AMD have had graphics switching solutions for some time. In fact it was problems with AMDs solution that had me opt for Nvidia (at a premium) over them in my last gaming/productivity laptop. They have profiling systems to set which GPU should be used for which applications, and I think even Lightroom (not so sure about PS) has settings to control which is used. But having it jump between integrated Intel HD/Iris Pro and discrete GPU can give the impression of your computer not being able to handle the processing as it can result in sluggish jerky responses at times. Very good point to make.