Two Routers, one connection

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blazerix

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Hi guys,


i was wondering if I would be able to use two routers in one connection. The problem is that I have a dir 628, when I run it using the 5ghz band some of my adapters won't pick it up and when I use it with the 2.4 ghz band the signal is extremely low.

I have another router DIR-625, I was wondering if I could use that with the 628 to create a 5ghz and 2.4ghz network. Is this possible? Another thing, my modem also has a built in wireless G router in it but I have turned it off.

Thanks,
 
first off that is way too many signals being broadcast. that may be why your signal is low. just too much one the same band and you didnt say anything about what channels you are using. I understand not using the modem's wireless because a lot or modems have limited wireless capabilities so you can disable the wireless on the modem and setup ONE of the other wireless routers as a device on the main router.
 
is there I way I can hook my main router(dir 628) up to the modem on the main floor and then my second router on the top floor with no modem? If not what are my options?
 
yes but it can be very complicated and not all routers can act as an access point or repeater. if i were you id ditch all those extra routers and crank up the signal on the one im using
 
Code: 
isp -- modem--router#1 .... wifi connection ... router#2
router#2 needs to be configured for BRIDGE MODE.

router#1 channel #1, ssid (whatever)#1
router#2 channel #11 ssid (samewhatever)#2

both routers COULD use the same WPA passphrase


If wired 'twix #1 & #2, then leave the r#2 WAN empty and cable to any LAN slot
(this requires r#2 to disable DHCP, and let r# handout the addresses :)
 
Weak Signal or interference?

before messing with extra routers and signals, i would obtain a wireless sniffer like "network stumbler" and see if my neighbors are broadcasting their wireless on the same channel that i am using.

If that is the case, pick a channel in your router that is separated by at least one step from all of your neighbors'. i.e. if they are on channel 6, you would pick channel 4 or 8.

cheers,
 
Use this program to measure and test your wireless network. It's 100% freeware http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider

I would choose your fastest wireless router as the main DHCP. Then the others can be uses as your AP. Remember the main wireless router is also AP too. So setup the main wireless router. Take a wireless laptop and install the inssider on it. Let it start. You'll see right away who got what in your area and what's going on in your dwelling. Next start the other wireless router as your AP disabling the DHCP, NAT and SPI you don't need that in AP. If you need a 3rd AP but you can test that also.
 
Inssider looks like good alternative to netstumbler, but i still would not use multiple AP's unless your house measures in acres instead of square feet. It just is not necessary.

It is far more important to get a clear channel. Most of your range issues will then be resolved.

Other sources of interference beside your neighbors AP's could be 2.4 ghz wireless phones.

test several channels and pick the best.

good luck
 
phillipnolan said:
Inssider looks like good alternative to netstumbler, but i still would not use multiple AP's unless your house measures in acres instead of square feet. It just is not necessary.

It is far more important to get a clear channel. Most of your range issues will then be resolved.

Other sources of interference beside your neighbors AP's could be 2.4 ghz wireless phones.

test several channels and pick the best.

good luck
Click to expand...

I would agree with you but older homes made from 1600 to 1940 just have to much cast iron pipes, lead or etc in the walls to cause all sort of issues with the wireless. Homes from 1950 to present should be able to use one Wireless Router DHCP/AP. This can also vary.
 
The older home i lived in, built in the late 1800's, had plaster over wood lath. Very porous to radio signals. The only exceptions i would make is if the home had a late plaster finish that used "chicken wire" or expanded metal lath. These homes were generally built from the '40s until the mid or late '60s when gyp' board became common.

If you have one of these, you may as well forget about wireless unless you have an AP in each room. They are actually not very common because most have been remodeled using newer building materials.

The other issue you might have is a forced air furnace that uses large metal ducts. But again, only if the ducts are directly between you and the AP.

Otherwise a single AP or Wireless Router will handily cover a radius of 100' or more.

I have some functioning in dental offices that have lead linings in some of the walls. Obviously reception is unavailable directly in line behind the lead, but otherwise it is very good.

ymmv

:)
 
phillipnolan said:
The older home i lived in, built in the late 1800's, had plaster over wood lath. Very porous to radio signals. The only exceptions i would make is if the home had a late plaster finish that used "chicken wire" or expanded metal lath. These homes were generally built from the '40s until the mid or late '60s when gyp' board became common.

If you have one of these, you may as well forget about wireless unless you have an AP in each room. They are actually not very common because most have been remodeled using newer building materials.

The other issue you might have is a forced air furnace that uses large metal ducts. But again, only if the ducts are directly between you and the AP.

Otherwise a single AP or Wireless Router will handily cover a radius of 100' or more.

I have some functioning in dental offices that have lead linings in some of the walls. Obviously reception is unavailable directly in line behind the lead, but otherwise it is very good.

ymmv

:)
Click to expand...

Mine is made in the roaring 20's! I even have a hidden door between rooms! LOL Still I am lucky all the walls and ceilings have been redone to drywall. I have sun room where I use for my HO/SOHO the wireless from the main DHCP/AP can't reach that room since the sun room is attached to the side of the house where one of 2 chimney's used for the fireplace is located. This is where the second floor AP is able to cover this part of the house.

I house everything for the network in a basement closet in a family room all drywalled. Still above that is the main structure. AP can't give enough signal from there to reach the sun room where below the this are house two 275 gallon heating oil tanks those are made out of cast iron. Next that room is the underground garage then another room is connected to that is the steam boiler room. I had that replace but still the boiler is steam, but the pipes around the ceiling is made out of cast iron.
 
The thing is one of my router will run at 5ghz so the channel will be like 60 something and the other will be 2.4 ghz channel 6. Will this work out?
 
The two routers

will not interfere with one another. Neither will they work in bridging mode. They operate on entirely different frequencies.

It is still important to be certain your neighbors are not using the same Channel on the 2.4 router.

To use the 5ghz router you will need a wire to the location you intend to put it. You will also find the range to be considerably shorter on the 5 ghz router. Use that in an area where it is close to the computers that will be using it.

If you have any of the issues tipstir and i have been discussing, you will also need to work around them.
 
blazerix. I just went back and reread your original post. These routers are fully compatible. Just turn off the 5ghz radio and use the 2.4 side only. I am not familiar with bridging on these, just get a manual to help you set it up.
 
jobeard said:
of course :)
Click to expand...
hmm; I was considering the two being wired together and letting each support their own connected systems.

a wifi connection a->b with different frequences would not work with our without bridging ...
they just HEAR each other.

Bridging is in the TCP setup, but first one has to be able to connect ;)

Sorry for the misdirect there :eek:
 
jobeard said:
hmm; I was considering the two being wired together and letting each support their own connected systems.

a wifi connection a->b with different frequences would not work with our without bridging ...
they just HEAR each other.

Bridging is in the TCP setup, but first one has to be able to connect ;)

Sorry for the misdirect there :eek:
Click to expand...


agreed, I hope this is clear to blazerix -- i am making the assumption that one of the routers will have a wired connection to the ISP. I am also assuming that these routers will operate in bridging mode with another router.

Looking at their specs, there is nothing to show that they support bridging with another router.

from personal experience -- one of the units must support "client mode" to work as a bridge. Routers usually do not. Wireless Access Points usually do.
 
phillipnolan said:
tipstir

to increase my range i installed one of these in my laptop -- 400mw radio makes quite a difference. http://www.wlanparts.com/product/SR71-E/UBIQUITI-SRX-300mW-80211bg-PC-Express-Card.html
Click to expand...

Interesting idea. But I am okay both wireless routers are 1,200 range coverage. I use another one running DD-wRT for 802.11G only. That one covers the entire house. The 802.11N does too just can't reach the basement. mW would need to be unlocked. But I am good. Thanks for sharing the link.
 
bigger better faster more. . .

on my home unit i am running tomato on a wrt54g. it has broadcast power control as well. even though direct line of site is through a safe and the plumbing chase for the building I can connect from my detached garage about 150ft from the unit.

more power is a good thing when you have a clear channel.
 
I place the main DHCP-AP north side of the house and the secondary AP on the east side near a window. This method works very well. Single strength for both wireless routers is about the same. They are not using tomato or dd-wrt on Belkin N Plus. Prior wireless router with dlink DIR-655 firmware killed me using that router ever again. Belkin N Plus been pretty stable in 802.11N only since installing the first one back in 2008 then a second one 2009 to handle the rest of the house. I only use the Buffalo HP-G54 with DD-WRT for 802.11G. That doesn't show-up in IPV6 under network discovery in Windows 7 environment, but bridging it seems to be okay. My main concern is to have everything from wired print servers (2x dlink) and wireless all-in-one operational and have wired clients able to access all 3 printers..

I've ran some test on everything I own here outside and into the woods. Like you with your 150 radius very good coverage outside. I do like to enjoy the outdoors so using a wireless laptop or netbook an etc works with a great signal.
 
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