Our Dart has no fire at the coil. No power at distributor connection cranking off or on. There is power at the positive coil terminal. There is power at the ballast. The ballast, ignition module, coil have all been replaced. The electronic distributor has been removed and replaced with a Pertronix distributor wired directly to the coil. All wiring has been testing for continuity, there is no apparent problem, the car will not start it has no fire. It will not start in crank or on position. The car started and ran, started at least 10 times and ran for about an hour (for 20 minutes while breaking in the cam at 2,000 RPM.) The car was turned off and the temporary Holley carb. was replaced with the original thermo quad which is pumping fuel. The car never started again. Help anyone! All help is appreciated.
1973 Dodge Dart Sport 340 cranks but will not start
- Thread starter missmach1
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zipperman
Posts: 1,168 +7
D
DelJo63
The keyed ignition switch has TWO terminals with power to the distributor;
one for cranking, the other for run.
Check the switch for power at both terminals
one for cranking, the other for run.
Check the switch for power at both terminals
Some info re a '75 here:
http://forums.moparmusclemagazine.com/70/6759959/mopar-engines/no-spark/index.html
http://forums.moparmusclemagazine.com/70/6759959/mopar-engines/no-spark/index.html
megabomination
Posts: 151 +0
A new coil can **** itself just like that!
peacefulchaos
Posts: 34 +0
My car would crank but not start and it ended up being low compression in one of my cylinders. I won't go through the details because the thread looks dead.
Car refuses to start once more HELP please. Thank you so much
1973 Dodge Dart Sport 340 cranks but will not start
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Our Dart has no fire at the coil. No power at distributor connection cranking off or on. There is power at the positive coil terminal. There is power at the ballast. The ballast, ignition module, coil have all been replaced. The electronic distributor has been removed and replaced with a Pertronix distributor wired directly to the coil. All wiring has been testing for continuity, there is no apparent problem, the car will not start it has no fire. It will not start in crank or on position. The car started and ran, started at least 10 times and ran for about an hour (for 20 minutes while breaking in the cam at 2,000 RPM.) The car was turned off and the temporary Holley carb. was replaced with the original thermo quad which is pumping fuel. The car never started again. Help anyone! All help is appreciated.
1973 Dodge Dart Sport 340 cranks but will not start
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Our Dart has no fire at the coil. No power at distributor connection cranking off or on. There is power at the positive coil terminal. There is power at the ballast. The ballast, ignition module, coil have all been replaced. The electronic distributor has been removed and replaced with a Pertronix distributor wired directly to the coil. All wiring has been testing for continuity, there is no apparent problem, the car will not start it has no fire. It will not start in crank or on position. The car started and ran, started at least 10 times and ran for about an hour (for 20 minutes while breaking in the cam at 2,000 RPM.) The car was turned off and the temporary Holley carb. was replaced with the original thermo quad which is pumping fuel. The car never started again. Help anyone! All help is appreciated.
familyman14
Posts: 184 +0
Go here and ask. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/
no start dart
Hi, Thought I would take a stab at it....I would recommend verifing the pick up is good on the Electronic distributor and put it back in. It sounds like you have an open circuit in the ignition wiring. I know that old mopars have problems with the connector at the firewall. Check it while checking all wires for continuity. Typically there are 5 wires in the ignition box. #1 goes to ballast (jumper side)on the 5 ohms- #3 goes to the ballast on the other side of the 5 ohm ballast, #2 goes to the coil negative side, #'s 4 and 5 go to the distributor pick up. The positive side wire From the coil goes to the .5 ohm( be careful .5 not 5)ballast(jumperside) and also it goes to the ignition switch- position 2, and the other side of the .5 side ballast goes ignition switch- position 1. Oh yeah, check body to battery and engine to battery grounds. If there are no grounds, you don't get it running. Let me know how it goes.
Hi, Thought I would take a stab at it....I would recommend verifing the pick up is good on the Electronic distributor and put it back in. It sounds like you have an open circuit in the ignition wiring. I know that old mopars have problems with the connector at the firewall. Check it while checking all wires for continuity. Typically there are 5 wires in the ignition box. #1 goes to ballast (jumper side)on the 5 ohms- #3 goes to the ballast on the other side of the 5 ohm ballast, #2 goes to the coil negative side, #'s 4 and 5 go to the distributor pick up. The positive side wire From the coil goes to the .5 ohm( be careful .5 not 5)ballast(jumperside) and also it goes to the ignition switch- position 2, and the other side of the .5 side ballast goes ignition switch- position 1. Oh yeah, check body to battery and engine to battery grounds. If there are no grounds, you don't get it running. Let me know how it goes.
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