Are these parts compatible? + suggestions?

This is my first so any nooby help would be appreciated.

- Corsair TX750W 750-Watt Power Supply -
- Corsair XMS3 Tri Channel 6GB PC12800 DDR3 Memory 1600MHz -
- EVGA X58 SLI LE Motherboard -
- EVGA AR GeForce GTX 460 Video Card - 1024MB -
- Windows 7 64bit Pro
- Western Digital WD5000AAKS Caviar Blue Hard Drive -
- COOLER MASTER Storm Scout -
- Asus DRW-24B1ST 24X Internal DVD Burner -
- Intel Core i7 930 Processor BX80601930 -

I think i listed everything. Thank you greatly, in advance.
Also if you know a good CPU cooler.
I guess i can't post the links sorry. =(
 
In spite of the fact that it's just asking to be confused, I would wait for a few more opinions on the motherboard.

Win 7 64 bit pro is about the best choice for an OS you could make at the moment.

The WD Caviar blue, I'd rather see you grab the same drive in a Caviar Black. (Once you've had a Caviar Black, you'll never go back). What does that even mean.......
 
I think i am going to stick with the i7 and i Like the gtx 460
What are somethings to look for in a MB besides the obvious?

For gaming, I'd rather go with:

Intel Core i5-760 Lynnfield 2.8GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80605I5760
MSI P55A-GD55 LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM
Why are all of those less then what i have? are they just what you own? Please explane.
 
I think i am going to stick with the i7 and i Like the gtx 460
What are somethings to look for in a MB besides the obvious?

Hi E55

1) Build quality: Asus and Gigabyte lead the way right now with the most stringent manufacturing quality control and components (ferrite choke caps, amount of copper used in their tracers ect...) Biostar is making great strides in the quality of the components they use these days and putting out some surprisingly good boards if budget becomes an issue
2) Features: Overclocking and ease of, number of USB(and usb 3.0) etc
3) Bios: how much control does it give you
4) layout: How is everything spaced? make sure your heatsink you choose will fit and not run into your selected ram modules
5) number of PCIE slots: important if you want to upgrade to crossfire or SLI later on. if you need say 3 PCIE slots, make sure that they are not laid out in a manner that prohibits the use of one of them with dual slot cooling solutions.
6) TDP support: don't get caught with a 125W CPU and a board supports only 95W CPU's for example.
7) Good Northbridge cooling: often overlooked. A hot NB can cause instability.
8) sufficient SATA interface for the number of HDD's/optical drives you want
9) Chipset: NB/SB
10) Memory support:make sure it supports the Speed, amount, and make of ram you wish to have.
11) Crossfire/SLI: make sure it supports the VGA(s) you plan to use. some only support one or the other
12) Price: The difference between an P55 and a X58 for example, will only be realized if you are building an "enthusiast machine". (CF/SLI, overclocking, etc) if you are not, 32 vs 40 PCIE lanes is not going to make a discernible or tangible performance difference.
13) check the software features that come with the board, some of them are very useful for OC'ing, system monitoring, updating the Bios etc.
14) number of fan headers on the board; not a big deal for some, but something I take into consideration.
just some of the things I look at.
Hope it helps :)
 
To add on to the previous post.
1.)Build quality
-1a.Make sure you have a case that allows plenty of real estate around the motherboard. A lot of people buy full atx motherboards with relatively small cases and get upset because they're limited to a video cards length.

15.)On board sound: if its available or not. Most modern motherboards come with on board sound, or at least a sound card. Some times an add on card will warrant less pci space.
 
Why are all of those less then what i have? are they just what you own? Please explane.
What do you mean? They cost less money because they are lower end products? Is it bad to cost less money?
SLI GTX is definitely better for gaming, though, it could be only moderate depending on your resolution.
 
for the most part if it gives you control of the clocks and voltages. The more control options you have the better should you want to overclock/underclock. I also like a bios Overclock feature and a place to store different profiles. The jury is still out, and some like it,some do not, but I like a 'load line calibration' feature as well.
 
for the most part if it gives you control of the clocks and voltages. The more control options you have the better should you want to overclock/underclock. I also like a bios Overclock feature and a place to store different profiles. The jury is still out, and some like it,some do not, but I like a 'load line calibration' feature as well.
Thanks, I was wondering moe how to tell from i website specs etc.?
Thanks again, your helping a nooby out!
 
Thanks, I was wondering moe how to tell from i website specs etc.?
Thanks again, your helping a nooby out!

The best way is to Google your MB and look up a review of it. The better sites will cover the bios and do a good job of telling you how much control the BIOS gives you. The manufacturers website will also usually tell you a bit about the bios as well. You can also download the manual in PDF form and it will walk you through the BIOS screen by screen.
 
If you are considering a multi-GPU setup, go for a Bloomfield (i7 9xx) series CPU; Lynnfield (i5 and i7 8xx) is better suited to a single-GPU setup, due to the reduced PCI-E bandwidth and on-chip PCI-E controller.
 
But P55 is just turns out to be so much cheaper though. i5-750+P55+4GB ram would save about enough money to make up for an i7+X58+6gb(though thats not necessary).
 
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