Compac CQ5210 doesn't turn on w/button

DJnRF

Posts: 16   +2
For a while now my PC would not turn on when shut off. For a while I could get it to
come on by pressing the power button several time. It finally would just not even
work that way.

I blew all dust out, switched back and forth between 110 and 220 volts and it still
did not work. I then used a hair dryer blowing into the back of the pwr supply.
After running it on hot for a minute or so the PC did turn on. It stayed on until I
shut it off after about forty minutes.

I again tried to turn it on with no luck, and it still would not with use of the dryer.
I noticed that the green light below the PS shuts off momentarily when the
power button is pressed. I also swapped out the battery with no luck.

Any ideas to try?
 
I have had two bad power switches - 30 years - 30 or so machines. Sounds like you might need a replacement. If you have a multimeter, perhaps you could test the continuity on pressing power button. This is a momentary switch - and you may be able to short the start pins - download manual from motherboard maker to see how and where.

However, I would never switch a PSU to a different voltage as starting the PSU in this setting would fry my system.
Also, I would never run a 'hot' hair dryer into my PSU as there could be static discharge resulting in loss of PSU or some other components.

Another cause for your trouble may be a failing PSU - especially the 'power good' signal which is required for a start. Testing PSU in another system might show this to be the cause.
 
I am having serious problems in getting info on M-board. Am using an old laptop that is the slowest I have ever seen.
Normally I would have all info on my PC, but my wife put all the BU’s somewhere I can’t find. She just
Passed away last Tuesday, and I am still not settled from that.

Without a board layout or schematic I am not sure where to find the board switch terminals, and am
Having a major difficulty using this old laptop on WiFi just to get on here. I haven’t even been able to
Get into Compaq support, or even support for the PS to get wiring info for it to trace it out mechanically.

As for use of a hair dryer as I did, you are mistaken. In technical electronics (commercial) we use what
We call “heat guns” on electrical circuits to check for shorted, or open circuits. They do exactly what
The hair dryer does. Just some are designed with small outlet tubes to isolate individual components. Also, I just flipped the voltage switch back and forth to insure proper contact.
At times they get oxidized and moving it as I did cleans them. There was no voltage.

My experience? I am a Federally licensed 1st Class communications electronics tech. Worked in my
Own business in commercial equipment for over forty years. Just as a freeze mist can do, hot air can
Also isolate bad components.

Any help and guidance is appreciated.
 
Dear Friend, I am sorry to hear of your wife's passing. Please accept my condolences.

As to Compaq - I think this may be your motherboard... https://support.hp.com/rs-en/document/c01925534 - and the Layout shows the front panel connector attaching in the lower right. Does not offer a description of the pinouts - but they might be printed on the board. Shorting the two power pins should give you a clean start if the problem is the power switch..

I hope this is a power switch fix. A PSU is expensive to replace on a 9 year old machine..

ps I've used a heat gun and freeze spray, but always thought hair dryers were too risky (still do). The caution on the 110/220 is from too many instances with novice builders switching the voltage with power on......

 
Well, my board is not quite the one you show, but enough so that with my magnifier headset I was able to find
the terminals. The whole plug and wire colors are different than the one you show. When shorting the pins there
is no difference than using the switch. It comes on and goes off just as quick. I am inclined to think it isn't a
switch issue.
 
Working with hypothesis that it is a power good signal issue, the next step would be to test the rig with a replacement 'known good' PSU. The difficulty is that the connectors may be proprietary to Compaq.
 
Working all day trying to get death Certificate. Have to have that before I can get her for burial.
Connectors look standard, but I am able to make changes ok. Just don't have a 300 W PS
to try.
 
Moderately higher wattage is OK, but >550 or 600 might not be. When you find/borrow one, do compare the wires as there was a Compaq some years back that had them in different pin locations even though the connectors were the same..
 
The current PS is 250 W. I think it best to go to a 300. The only difference in my plug from your video is that mine is one plug for both of yours shown.
Since I don't know anyone around her from whom I can borrow one, I am going to have
to buy one. I might try to clear enough time to open this one and run some tests on
components.
 
Moderately higher wattage is OK, but >550 or 600 might not be. When you find/borrow one, do compare the wires as there was a Compaq some years back that had them in different pin locations even though the connectors were the same..

I did get a 400W maximum, average 300W PS. As soon as it was installed the PC would turn on as it should. Now I
just have to hook it all up again, and reinstall all my files and programs. That is an all day task.
Thanks for your help.
Dave.
 
Moderately higher wattage is OK, but >550 or 600 might not be. When you find/borrow one, do compare the wires as there was a Compaq some years back that had them in different pin locations even though the connectors were the same..

Well, a problem still exists. Actually somewhat different. When I hooked everything up the PC came on and I went
through the process of the setup of the new system files. Remember, I had stated that I had done a complete
re-installation of the original Compaq discs. The PC had never started to go through the setup process before it
stopped starting.

It went through the files setup, and the restart for the first time use. Then it again shut down. I started it several times
even tried shorting the two pins to get it to start. Sometimes it does, and other times it does not. At no time now
does it stay on does it stay one longer than a few seconds. At times it won't even respond that way, or with the
switch.

I changed the battery with another one from another old PC. It tests OK, but I will get another to try later tonight.
I pulled all the connections, and reinserted them. I had checked the wires on the new PS as compared to the
old and they are the same. (The new one is claimed to be a direct replacement for my model. It seems to be.)

I wish I had a full schematic for this board. My model is the one you figured, but even though the model is
shown on the board to be the M2N68-AL, I see differences on the image. If there are visible differences
there could be others. Know any place I can get a schematic? If I knew the schematic with parts layout, and
diagrams with the component specs I could use my equipment and analyzer to go through it.

BTW, how do I get the old switch out for testing, and replacement? That thing is really packed in.

Dave
 
Typically the front bezel can be removed from inside case (a few screws, some clips, etc) and gives you access to the power button mounting. YouTube may have a video.

Schematic - probably n/a.

Pinout - examine under strong light and magnification - typically appears silk-screened on board (PWR, RST, etc).

You said "It went through the files setup, and the restart for the first time use. " Sounds like it ran without any problem for a good length of time. Does it run without issues if you keep it in BIOS setup? Can you boot from a CD or Flash drive and when you do, does it just keep running? If problem is software on HDD or HDD itself, then it would just keep running. If you can boot it using memtest86 (bootable) and have it test RAM without crash or halt this would confirm that the issue is software/HDD since you be running it hard from the OS on CD and not using the HDD.
 
Typically the front bezel can be removed from inside case (a few screws, some clips, etc) and gives you access to the power button mounting. YouTube may have a video.

Schematic - probably n/a.

Pinout - examine under strong light and magnification - typically appears silk-screened on board (PWR, RST, etc).

You said "It went through the files setup, and the restart for the first time use. " Sounds like it ran without any problem for a good length of time. Does it run without issues if you keep it in BIOS setup? Can you boot from a CD or Flash drive and when you do, does it just keep running? If problem is software on HDD or HDD itself, then it would just keep running. If you can boot it using memtest86 (bootable) and have it test RAM without crash or halt this would confirm that the issue is software/HDD since you be running it hard from the OS on CD and not using the HDD.

Well, first off, the only way I can see to get the power switch out is to remove the DVD=RW drive. The front
bezel comes off easy, but there is no way to remove the right side cover to make things easier. It is riveted as is the
whole frame. By removal of the DVD drive there is plenty of room to remove the entire cable bundle.

And, yes, I know how to read a board printing. The problem is that the print coding is not according to any
layout diagram I have seen. Not only that, but the printing is not making sense. In looking at wires I do know
what should be a corresponding ID of those wires is not anywhere near describing what they are, or any
ID about them. ie: One that is supposed to be a power line should be PWR, V1, BAT, 115, or even a +.
Not even close! It all could have been in Chinese.

Yes, when I first started it the program seemed to be working fine. It just got to the point where it was starting Windows for the first time, then it shut down.

After much work and the removal of one memory chip I have gotten the PC to power up but
without the monitor coming on.. PC stays on. The monitor works fine on this Laptop.

I have test discs to check everything, but, it would have to start up with all. I might be able to ID some semi-conductors to pull and test, but without a schematic I can't do much with my 'expensive'analyzer.

I an still showing a security error on this site, but somehow got to make this reply.

Any other thoughts?
Dave.

Unknown how I got to add this edit. Can't do anything else in here.
Couldn't post message reply. It follows here.

I managed to post in forum (don't know how it worked) but can't post a reply to your message.
I would like to rebuild but the ability on my SS prohibits. I may have to pull out an old XP PC
to get off this lousy laptop. To use this I must use the Columbus method to type.
(Seek it, Find it, Land on it.) Being a 1st Class licensed tech I hate the 'parts changing'
method to find a problem. I am used to the professional method with a proper schematic,
and my test equipment. Dave
 
Last edited:
Dave- I am getting a bit lost in a welter of issues:

my Compaq PC would not turn on - replaced PSU and removed faulty RAM, computer boots BUT does it power on by shorting pins?, does it power on by the power button?
AND does it "POST" https://www.computerhope.com/jargon/p/post.htm?
AND can you see/get into BIOS setup?

internal graphics won't work with monitor - easy to hard ideas: loose cable, not set to "on" in BIOS, internal graphics on motherboard are broken (try a video card)

ID of those wires - sometimes it is a little box some inches away

power button - now you have more access, can you test it now?

starting Windows for the first time, then it shut down - a new install of Windows may restart 3-5 times as it works out how things are - and it gets worse if you have internet access as the first starts are also involved in handling many updates - your original discs are fairly old and there is also the possibility of a corrupt copy - you may be able to get a fresh ISO from Microsoft by download depending on what your version is - I think there is support for Windows 7 and later and maybe more

security error on this site using a laptop - typically this is scareware, indicating that you may have some kind of malware infesting the laptop - post a question on the Site Feedback forum ( https://www.techspot.com/community/forums/site-feedback-and-suggestions.18/ )

problems "solved"
new PSU
removed faulty RAM

see the video I sent by 'conversation' on your profile page
 
"EDIT" is in the lower left corner of the post which you wrote.
"Post Reply" is the last message box and has a blue "Post Reply" button below it.

" I am used to the professional method with a proper schematic, and my test equipment." which would be great if you had a schematic - but I doubt one has been available in the last 5 years (and then only at the manufacturer's refurb center) - so we are stuck with 'changing parts'. We try to be smart about it. ComputerHope is an excellent site for specific symptom driven troubleshooting trees.
 
Dave- I am getting a bit lost in a welter of issues:

my Compaq PC would not turn on - replaced PSU and removed faulty RAM, computer boots BUT does it power on by shorting pins?, does it power on by the power button?
AND does it "POST" https://www.computerhope.com/jargon/p/post.htm?
AND can you see/get into BIOS setup?

internal graphics won't work with monitor - easy to hard ideas: loose cable, not set to "on" in BIOS, internal graphics on motherboard are broken (try a video card)

ID of those wires - sometimes it is a little box some inches away

power button - now you have more access, can you test it now?

starting Windows for the first time, then it shut down - a new install of Windows may restart 3-5 times as it works out how things are - and it gets worse if you have internet access as the first starts are also involved in handling many updates - your original discs are fairly old and there is also the possibility of a corrupt copy - you may be able to get a fresh ISO from Microsoft by download depending on what your version is - I think there is support for Windows 7 and later and maybe more

security error on this site using a laptop - typically this is scareware, indicating that you may have some kind of malware infesting the laptop - post a question on the Site Feedback forum ( https://www.techspot.com/community/forums/site-feedback-and-suggestions.18/ )

problems "solved"
new PSU
removed faulty RAM

see the video I sent by 'conversation' on your profile page

Ok, let's just get to the updated situation. The entire start of the problems is not the case now.
As things stand at present:
The PC starts with the power button, and continues to run until manually shut off with the button.
There is no POST that I can tell as the monitor remains in the Standby mode as it is not
getting a signal from the PC.
I am not able to get into BIOS that I can tell.
With no monitor signal the PC can be working, or not, but no way to tell for testing.

I am presently online with an old Dell 260 series desktop using Win XP.
It is very slow and very outdated, but working well. (Last used in Feb 2014)
Even the monitor is working with it.

On the laptop I ran Spybot S&D, AVG, and Microsoft Malicious Software Tool.
Cleaned what was needed to clean. No type of spyware/trojan/ or other added
software was found. All Had been updated today.
Just a lot of trouble getting into mail, and anything in Techspot.

I know I need to get a newer system but at my income it would take a full
year to do. I can't be offline more than a couple of days as I do much work
on here. I would need to get work that pays enough to not lose certain
benefits. How can that be done at my age these days? When older, and
retired for a good while no one wants to hire us for more than part time,
minimum wages. If I had the money I would again get back into the
electronics and communications business. I also could get back into the
firearms business as I am a gunsmith, and have considerable knowledge
in that as well. Even formerly involved in books published in that.

Anyway, this should bring you up to date on the problem, and some
background on me.
Thanks, Dave.
 
"There is no POST that I can tell as the monitor remains in the Standby mode as it is not
getting a signal from the PC. "

While the following article may not be for your exact model (which I do not know), it may offer some help...you can search further for anything model specific of course.

https://support.hp.com/bg-en/produc...eries/3999467/model/4048601/document/bph04760

If you really get stuck, ask around - many good used systems are donated locally and there is a very healthy resale market on eBay (where I got my current system for less than $150).
 
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