No POST after upgrading PSU

HyukeN

Posts: 7   +0
I installed some new hardware: PSU and a harddrive, so I had removed my video card while doing this. I put everything back together and the computer booted and worked fine for about 1 - 2 hours before I turned it off for the night.

In the morning my computer powered on, but the monitor was all black and the power light on the monitor was just blinking. The BIOS POST was long-short-short (video card issue). I looked in the case and one of the wires was blocking one of the two fans on the GPU. I tied this wire out of the way and the same symptoms occurred.

Next I tried to turn it on and the red overclock light and all blue LEDs on the motherboard turn on along with all the fans and the motors in the hard drives. There is no POST however and the monitor light only blinks. There is no sound of windows starting up. I cannot power down with the power button or reset using the reset button.

After reseating everything and trying alternate cords, monitors, keyboard, mouse, CMOS battery, video card, and memory I have determined it must be the motherboard (most likely), case, or CPU(least likely). I even testbenched it by taking everything out of the case and putting it on boxes. So it doesn't appear that there are any shorts from the motherboard to the case.

I have also figured out a way to get the computer on after many hours of trial and error. I followed these exact steps:

1. power down with PSU switch
2. hold power button for 30 seconds
3. remove battery
4. hold power button for 30 seconds
5. remove power cord
6. hold power button for 30 seconds
7a. put battery back in
7b. put power cord back in
8. flip PSU switch back on
9. turn computer on
10. Wait upto 5 minutes and then computer will boot 90% of the time, but not give POST beep

This worked for a couple weeks, but everytime I unplugged the computer (or maybe when switching off the PSU switch) or it was shut down improperly the same symptoms would come back. However, lately I have these symptoms every time I shut down the computer properly plus now my system clock is running slow. I tried an older CMOS battery but I get the same results.

I'm thinking either the current and old CMOS battery are both bad, or there is a problem with the motherboard (compatibility issue maybe?). Is there anything else I can try before I spend money to RMA this board? Should I try a BIOS update or does the system clock point to hardware failure? Note that I initially only had problems when starting up the computer and recently the system clock runs slow and the system tray is a little bit screwed up (it doesn't show all my normal icons running in the background, but it has white space for where they should be and I cannot click on the 2 or 3 that are showing up properly).

One last thing to note is that I had a similar problem with my last build which used the same case, speakers, keyboard, mouse, and monitor until I bought a new motherboard, then never had the problem again. RMA'ing that motherboard multiple times never solved it.

Motherboard: MSI 870A-G54
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850
Power Supply: upgraded to Antec Truepower 650W from Enermax Noisetaker 420W
CPU: AMD Phenom II X2 555
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws PC3-10666 2X2GB
CASE: Coolermaster CAC-T05 Centurion 5 Aluminum
 
A slow clock is usually a sure sign that the CMOS battery needs to be replaced, so do that first (with a new one). Removing the battery will have set it back to defaults so go into the Bios and check it is recognising all the hardware and you have it set correctly for the type of hard drive, IDE or SATA. And check the voltages for RAM and CPU are set correctly.

The hard drive details are missing from your specs as is the version of Windows you are using.

You said you had a similar problem with another motherboard which you RMA'd multiple times, where are you getting your parts from? Are you using second hand items?

Is the recently fitted CPU and hard drive second hand or new?

Your video card may have been fried when the fan was jammed, when you swapped it with another card was that a known good working card, have you got another PC you can test the card in. Also try running the PC with the onboard graphics for now and remove the card.

Is the OS installed on the new hard drive and did you get all the chipset drivers for the motherboard installed?
 
A slow clock is usually a sure sign that the CMOS battery needs to be replaced, so do that first (with a new one). Removing the battery will have set it back to defaults so go into the Bios and check it is recognising all the hardware and you have it set correctly for the type of hard drive, IDE or SATA. And check the voltages for RAM and CPU are set correctly.

I have replaced the CMOS battery twice (from two different packs of batteries) and have the same results.

The hard drive details are missing from your specs as is the version of Windows you are using.

OS: Windows 7 SP1 64-bit
HDD: The HD with the OS is a Maxtor 200Gb SATA 1 (I think)
HDD2: Maxtor 250GB SATA 1 (I think)

You said you had a similar problem with another motherboard which you RMA'd multiple times, where are you getting your parts from? Are you using second hand items?

I am getting my parts from NCIX (Canada). They are new and I was RMA'ing a Gigabyte board in my last build until I finally gave up and purchased an MSI board to replace it and it fixed my woes. Everything in the build is new except for: case, peripherals, hard drive, optical drives.

Is the recently fitted CPU and hard drive second hand or new?

The PSU (I think that is what you meant) is new and the HD I added was a non-OS HD. It is used, but the problem persists even when I take the second HD out.

Your video card may have been fried when the fan was jammed, when you swapped it with another card was that a known good working card, have you got another PC you can test the card in. Also try running the PC with the onboard graphics for now and remove the card.

There are no onboard graphics. I believe this is more of a booting problem and all the internal LEDs stay lit and the red OC LED stays lit when I have this problem. I get these same symptoms if I remove the Video Card or use an alternate Video Card (known working).

Is the OS installed on the new hard drive and did you get all the chipset drivers for the motherboard installed?

The OS is still installed on the first HD. The hardware changes were: switched PSUs and added a 2nd HD. I don't recall doing anything with chipset drivers. But when I can get the computer on and into the OS I have no troubles interfacing with either HD.
 
Hi, and welcome back.

Taking into account all the things you have tried I have listed below three tests for the memory, hard drive and CPU. The first two use a boot disc so that should work ok but the CPU test will require getting the PC to boot to the desktop if you can still get it there. If you can't get on-line to download the software do it on another PC and transfer the program on a flash drive or re-recordable CD.

Identify the make of your hard drive and then use one of the links below to get the manufacturer's diagnostics for ISO (CD) not the one for Windows.

When the download is complete right click the file and select Extract Here and burn the image to a CD.

In Windows 7 right click the extracted file, select Open With, then select Windows Disc Image Burning Tool then follow the prompts. For all other versions of windows (if you do not have an ISO burner) download this free software. isoimageburner

Boot the PC into the Bios setup and set the CD/DVD drive to 1st in the boot sequence. Insert the disk in the drive then reboot and the disc will load into dos.

Excelstore
Hitachi/IBM
Samsung
Seagate, Maxtor & Quantum
Western Digital

Toshiba/Fujitsu
If you have a Toshiba/Fujitsu hard drive I would suggest the use of the diagnostics from the Seagate link as this will work on all makes of drive and on any OS.

Preliminary checks
You should first check the model of RAM stick that you have on the manufacturers site for the recommended voltage setting and then make sure it is set correctly in the PC's Bios. An incorrect voltage setting may be the reason for your problems so test the PC's performance again if the voltage was incorrect.

Errors can also be caused by dirty contacts, mismatched sticks or using them in the wrong slots. Check all sticks are the same make and specification, check the motherboard manual for the correct slots to use. Remove all the sticks and clean the contacts with a soft pencil eraser and blow out the slots with a can of compressed air.

Testing
Download Memtest86+ from here.
You need to scroll down the page until you see the three blue screenshots. Just below is the list of downloads for Memtest86+ V4.20. Click on Download - Pre-Compiled Bootable ISO (.zip) and save to your desktop.

When the download is complete right click the file and select Extract Here and burn the image to a CD.

In windows 7 right click the extracted file, select Open With, then select Windows Disc Image Burning Tool then follow the prompts. For all other versions of windows (if you do not have an ISO burner) download this free software. isoimageburner

Boot the PC into the Bios setup and set the CD/DVD drive to 1st in the boot sequence. Insert the disk in the drive then reboot and the disc will load into dos. Leave the test to run through at least 8 cycles or until it is showing some errors. If errors show in the test, remove all but one of your RAM sticks and repeat the test on each stick until you find the one that is faulty. This is a long slow test and should ideally be run overnight.

The memtest will not be 100% accurate but should easily detect any major faults.

IMPORTANT
Always disconnect your PC from the mains supply when removing Ram sticks and earth your hands to discharge any static electricity to avoid damage to sensitive components. If performing this test on a laptop PC you should also remove the battery before removing or replacing the RAM sticks.


Prime95

Prime95 Setup:
- extract the contents of the zip file to a location of your choice
- double click on the executable file
- select "Just stress testing"
- select the "Blend" test. If you've already run MemTest overnight please run the "Small FFTs" test instead. (run all 3 if you find a problem and note how long it takes to error out with each)
- "Number of torture test threads to run" should equal the number of CPU's times 2 (if you're using hyperthreading).
The easiest way to figure this out is to go to Task Manager...Performance tab - and see the number of boxes under CPU Usage History
Then run the test for 6 to 24 hours - or until you get errors (whichever comes first).
This won't necessarily crash the system - but check the output in the test window for errors.
The Test selection box and the stress.txt file describes what components that the program stresses.
Windows 7 forum instructions
Prime95 instructions
 
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