PSU +12.0V rail reporting 9.0V. Good or bad?

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whenallelsefa1l

Posts: 60   +0
Hello everyone.

My 750w Ultra Power Supply's +12.0V rail is reporting to be running at a minimum of 8.98V and a height of 9.09V. Somebody once told me it should never run under 11.4V or i should get a new one. Is this correct?

I am using the CPUID Hardware Monitor.
Other specs are as follows:
-Winbond W83627DHG
. -Voltages:
. . -CPU VCORE : 0.95V minimum 1.22V Maximum
. . -VIN1: 0.82V minimum 0.91V Maximum
. . -+3.3V: 3.34V minimum 3.36V Maximum
. . -+5V: 5.02V minimum 5.04V Maximum
. . -+12V: 8.98V minimum 9.09V Maximum
. . -VIN6: 1.16V minimum 1.18V Maximum
. -Temperatures:
. . -SYSTIN: 21*C minimum 33*C Maximum
. . -CPUTIN: 22*C minimum 34*C Maximum
. . -AUXTIN: 41*C minimum 42*C Maximum
. -Fans
. . -CPUFANIN0: 1448RPM min. 1562RPM Max.
-Intel Core i7 860:
. -Temperatures:
. . -Core#0: 29*C minimum 38*C maximum
. . -Core#1: 23*C minimum 36*C maximum
. . -Core#2: 28*C minimum 40*C maximum
. . -Core#3: 24*C minimum 36*C maximum
. -Powers:
. . -Processor 7.76W minimum 95.00W maximum
-Nvidia GeForce GTS 450:
. -Temperatures:
. . -GPU Core: 24*C minimum 32*C maximum


This was all under Left 4 Dead 2 at maximum specs with no crashing or lagging. most times the FPS were in between 90 and 120.

That being said, i do get crashes when i play Call of Duty: Black Ops, and Borderlands. The crash is either a simple black screen or the game just gets stuck and never moves again. This is quickly fixed by a Ctrl+Alt+Del and then ending the process, so my computer never fully locks up or anything. I simply assumed it was Driver errors for my Nvidia Geforce 450 GTS. They only have two sets out for this card, the 260.89 and the 260.99, both released one week from one another.

Is it possible this is related to my +12V rail in my PSU? i can run games like Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2, Call of Duty 4, Medal of Honor 2010, Just Cause 2, Battlefield Bad Company 2, Left 4 Dead 2, and Metro 2033 without crashing, most at almost full specs. Or could it be faulty Nvidia drivers?

I will run Call of Duty: Black Ops until it crashes with the CPUID Hardware Monitor up and i will post results. but until then, any ideas?

Thanks! ^^
 
update: played CoD Black Ops, got a freeze, and here's what i've come up with. the +12V still remains around 9.09V when highest, so its probably related to that. but here is that same chart after playing for a good 2 hours and crashing.

-Winbond W83627DHG
. -Voltages:
. . -CPU VCORE :............ 0.95V minimum 1.22V Maximum
. . -VIN1:.......................... 0.82V minimum 0.92V Maximum
. . -+3.3V:........................ 3.34V minimum 3.36V Maximum
. . -+5V:........................... 5.02V minimum 5.04V Maximum
. . -+12V:......................... 8.98V minimum 9.14V Maximum
. . -VIN6:.......................... 1.16V minimum 1.19V Maximum
. -Temperatures:
. . -SYSTIN: .....................21*C minimum 46*C Maximum
. . -CPUTIN: .....................22*C minimum 47*C Maximum
. . -AUXTIN:..................... 41*C minimum 42*C Maximum
. -Fans
. . -CPUFANIN0:.............. 1448RPM min. 1555RPM Max.
-Intel Core i7 860:
. -Temperatures:
. . -Core#0: 29*C minimum 52*C maximum
. . -Core#1: 23*C minimum 48*C maximum
. . -Core#2: 28*C minimum 50*C maximum
. . -Core#3: 24*C minimum 50*C maximum
. -Powers:
. . -Processor: 7.76W minimum 95.00W maximum
-Nvidia GeForce GTS 450:
. -Temperatures:
. . -GPU Core: 24*C minimum 69*C maximum

from what i understand GPU's can be pushed close to 95*C and not have any issues.

So is it my +12V rail or is it my drivers??
 
CPUID may not be reading the voltage correctly.
Have you checked the voltage readings in the motherboards BIOS ? This is the most accurate reading you're going to get.
Secondly, having an EVGA board you should have the E-LEET utility. Does that report low voltage also?

If your voltage is indeed ~ 9v on the 12v rail then it's RMA time. 12v parameters are +/- 5% (11.4 -12.6v) anything below (unless a power hungry SLI/CFX setup) or above is outside the ATX specification and will likely cause some damage and much frustration.
 
Yeah it actually does read 9.09 in E-LEET as well.

As for an RMA, thats more frustrating than my problem at the moment. it's always 3 or 4 weeks for me to recieve anything.

I think i'll just order a new PSU, but the only problem is i need one with a 4-pin for my motherboard. I purchased a corsair 850 watt in the past to try and replace this one but i only ended up with a few 6 pins and an 8 pin, no 4 pin plug.

Any recommendations on this? i'm looking for 750-850 watts since i eventually plan on doing SLI with two 450's.
 
Most PSU's these days have an 8 pin EPS 12v plug- and most of these are in fact 4+4 (i.e. they can be seperated into two pieces).
As for what's available...
XFX 750w for $116 inc shipping after rebate
PCP&C Silencer II 750w for $122 inc shipping.
Sparkle 750w for $120 inc shipping after rebate
Corsair TX750 for $110 inc shipping
NZXT HALE90-750w for $146 inc shipping. (I have no first hand knowledge of the model but at least one senior forum member here recommends it).
 
hmm. good choices, thank you. I found this one last night while doing some searching, what do you think? it's cheaper than it is on newegg but there aren't a ton of reviews so im hoping you may have some insight on the brand

Kingwin LAZER 750w - $106.11 after shipping.

It seems decent and has the 4pin without having to separate an 8. i had the separable 8pin on the Corsair that i bought, i think its the same you listed for me, and even after separating it it wouldn't fit the socket on my motherboard for some odd reason, so i just returned it to Microcenter.

As for my current PSU, i'm quite surprised nothing has blown up in my computer yet. I've been running it like this for months if i am correct. Although this may explain why my EVGA GeForce 9800 GTX died about 2 to 3 months ago. One day i turned it on and all i got was artifacts. Luckily i get paid friday, i may just send out for 2 day delivery since its only 7 dollars more for it. That is to say unless the Kingwin is not a preferable brand? haha
 
I have no direct experience with the model (Kingwin aren't really distributed in New Zealand), however one of our senior members (Rage_3K_Moiz) holds them in reasonable regard
https://www.techspot.com/vb/topic156551.html
I'm sure you'll get an honest assessment if you choose to PM R3M. From what I can glean, the unit looks to be pretty good and the price looks very competitive.
 
The Kingwin Lazer Gold series is made by SuperFlower, based on their LLC-resonant design. High quality caps and great performance, combined with high efficiency and some very good prices, make it a steal, especially since it's got a modular design as well.

The Kingwin Lazer series is, however, pretty mediocre. Avoid if possible. I'd recommend this instead. If that's a little over-budget, you'd be fine with this one too.
 
The build quality, efficiency and overall performance is inferior to most other units in the same price range.
 
well let me ask you this. Will it get the job done decent enough to run most games on high with my PC build and last me 3 to 4 years minimum? cause if so, it doesn't matter to me lol
 
It probably would, I reckon. It has far more power than your current rig would ever need, even heavily overclocked.
 
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