Computer Beeps continuously unless CPU is unplugged

[hynesy]

Hi,

Just building a new system today, its running a i7 930, anyway if I have the processor plugged in all the fans start and lights come on, but the fan are not at full speed and then I get continuous short beeps. If I unplug the processor all the fans run at full speed and I get no beep. I have already swapped out the PSU with a known working PSU and still got the same result. Any suggestions?

 

[Manikle]

I believe that, in order for anyone to be able to help, they need to know a few more things.
At the very least , which Motherboard or which BIOS does your MOBO have?
To quote from the website pcapprentice,"Computer beep codes run in a sequence and need to be identified as such. Whether they
are long or short beeps you have to determine where the sequence ends and the next begins. While the
sequence is continuous there is a slight pause between the series of computer beep codes"
You can buy a POST Diagnostics Card to get a readout, if you can't determine the number of beeps.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158065&Tpk=bios post card
It might also be helpful to know what else is connected to the MOBO--graphics card, RAM, etc.?
With luck, it could be something really simple, like you don't have a GPU plugged in.

 

[seanc]

Motherboards won't perform any POST function at all without a CPU, hence you get no beeps with it not installed - put back it in, it's not the problem.

Is it really quick beeping or a continuous beeping of the same length?
Sounds like bad memory to me.

 

[Manikle]

I hadn't thought that the OP may not realize that there's no POST without a CPU.
Glad you mentioned it, Sean.

 

[captaincranky]

3 short beeps is usually Intel's signal for memory issues.

I suppose it also could be an overheating issue.. Did you recheck that the HSF is seated correctly?

 

[seanc]

On the other hand, an Award BIOS will beep continuously to tell you bad RAM.

 

[captaincranky]

Maybe we should ask him about that

 

[seanc]

Good idea captaincranky.

How does fitting the heatsinks for LGA1336 compare to LGA775, is it the same?

I've not felt the need to upgrade my personal system and LGA775 still works fine for the office grade PCs I build at work - not had my hands on anything.

 

[captaincranky]

How does fitting the heatsinks for LGA1336 compare to LGA775, is it the same?

I've only played with my own LGA1156. The push pins are similar, but the pattern has a very slightly wider stance. That's why the heatsinks are specific to the iCore series. I believe the "Arctic Freezer Pro 2.0" has slots the pins move in instead of holes, so that the part will also fit on an LGA775 socket.

One supposes that the same push pins equal the same possibility of a goof up.

Afterthought, I don't know if it's specific to the Gigabyte board I was using, but on the underside of the CPU socket, there is a metal "saddle" that prevents the board from bending. So, the socket bolts go clear through the board, and bolt to the stiffener.

 

[seanc]

I build with Gigabyte G31M/G41M MATX boards almost exclusively at the moment (I let some ASUS slip through the net for a test - awful), none of those have metal backplates. Yours must have been special, being an i5 board.

As long as you know to line up the holes correctly and seat the pegs before pushing the pins down, things always go fine. Listen for the 4 clicks and give the heatsink a wiggle to check it's tight.
I've heard that the manual says to twist-screw them in, is that correct? I've never read it, if so it's no wonder so many are not attached correctly.

 

[captaincranky]

I build with Gigabyte G31M/G41M MATX boards almost exclusively at the moment (I let some ASUS slip through the net for a test - awful), none of those have metal backplates. Yours must have been special, being an i5 board.

Here's the image gallery on "my" G55 board; http://www.newegg.com/Product/Image...56 Intel H55 HDMI Micro ATX Intel Motherboard

I've heard that the manual says to twist-screw them in, is that correct? I've never read it, if so it's no wonder so many are not attached correctly.

No, turning the pegs 90 degrees to the left still releases the pins. So, have the pins turned all the way to the right, and push straight in, same as always

 

[mailpup]

I could be wrong but my take is when the OP says, "unplug the processor," I think he means unplugging the ATX 12V motherboard connector.

 

[seanc]

Well if that is the case, then it's still the same situation. The CPU doesn't have the power it needs to work, so essentially, it isn't there.

I can 99% guarantee you that the CPU is not the problem.

 

[hynesy]

Hey fellers,

Sorry it has taken me a long time to respond, have been having internet problems. Anyway I worked out the problem, the ram just needed to be re-seated which is weird because I had already tried that. Alas it is working now and that is the important thing. Thanks to seanc, mailpup, captaincranky and Manikle for the replies none the less, had my net been working at the time I would have been very, very relieved to know that it was not the processor and would have found out much quicker that the problem was indeed the ram. I think you would actually interpret the beeps I was hearing as long and continuous beeps not short and continuous as a mate pointed out indicating a ram problem. Once again sorry for the late reply and I appreciate all the replies.
Cheers
Hynesy

 

[Manikle]

Glad you posted your findings to the forum.
It's always nice to know exactly how the problem was resolved.

 

[hynesy]

Always happy too, I just felt bad that I wasted peoples time.