water cooling heatsinks needed

By War_Ensemble ยท 21 replies
Jun 29, 2007
  1. Ok guys i need some help i have an E6600 Intel and a 8800gts 320mb video card w/ an evga 680i motherboard. I wanna go to water cooling. My cpu stock 2.4 running at 3.0 is 54C fan at 100% my gpu fan at 50% 52C none overclocked. My room gets a lil toasty when running this rig. All of this is in a full tower sunbeam transformer. Love the case btw. plenty of room.

    What i need is some help picking out some water cooling heatsinks. ones that wont crack. I heard if it has a clear window in it; where u can see the water flow stay away from it. what do you all think. I know what pump and the 2 resivores i am gonna use. 5/8 ID hose from the pump to a splitter into 2-1/2 ID hoses to fit the heat sinks and then back into 1-5/8 ID then to the heatercore-resivores- pump.
    Im kinda creating my own water system except for the heatsinks.
  2. dustin_ds3000

    dustin_ds3000 TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 887   +19

  3. CMH

    CMH TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 2,039   +9

    They're called waterblocks, not watercooling heatsinks :D

    Koolance makes some nice blocks, but I still think Swiftech makes the best ones.
  4. megabomination

    megabomination TS Booster Posts: 153

    Im a mechanic.Im new to computers.The idea of water cooling an electrical device sounds very ,very silly to me desite the fact that makers of the heatsinks etc.. will say theyll never leak.Car radiaters arent supposed to leak either! I would be more inclined to rig up a cooling fan with a custom made shroud that would not just pull air through the entire case,but pull fresh air over/past the card only.It would be a bit of f-----g around but it would work well so long as the ambient room temp never climes above the temp that the card would have trouble with.What temp will a water system keep the heatsinks at?
  5. megabomination

    megabomination TS Booster Posts: 153

    Go Slayer .
  6. CMH

    CMH TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 2,039   +9

    They have been using water to cool electronics for ages. Watercooling for pcs are relatively new, but its been tinkered around with by enthusiasts for easily 10 years now, most probably more.

    Only someone whom has never used watercooling, and have not read up on the subject would say that it is a dangerous thing.

    Most leaks are caused by human error, and you can as easily damage your computer without water. To minimize leaks, follow all safety procedures, especially the 24 hour leak test, where you run the watercooling setup OUTSIDE your computer for 24 hours. If that doesn't leak, I'd say you'll be fine.

    Other things you can do is to use pure, distilled water, with no additives. That way, even if it leaks, it will not damage your system, since pure water is NOT conductive.

    Even if you did not use pure, distilled water, in most leak cases, all you had to do was dry your computer in the shade, and you end up with a 100% working computer again.

    In both the above cases, if a leak occurs, you won't have a computer to use for a few days (maybe up to a week), but if you're careful when setting it up, you shouldn't have to worry.

    About the acrylic tops, I'd recommend staying away from them. Even installed properly, they will discolour over time, especially since its going to be heated (by your CPU). And if you overtighten them when installing, they crack. Besides that, the best waterblocks aren't acrylic tops anyway.
  7. Cinders

    Cinders TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 872   +12

    The D-Tek Fusion is arguably one of the best CPU waterblocks you can buy.

    I haven't done any research on chipset or video card waterblocks, so I can't help you there.

    Cracked or leaking plastic waterblock tops are usually caused by over-exuberant or inexperienced installers.
  8. Cinders

    Cinders TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 872   +12

    Sorry double post!
  9. twite

    twite TechSpot Paladin Posts: 937

    I have used a danger den waterblock, and an asetec waterchill waterblock, and have been very satisfied with both.
  10. War_Ensemble

    War_Ensemble TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 20

    thankx alot guys for ur help mine will consist of at least 350 GPH if not more flow. I have been looking at danger den that was the only place i have went so far. This water cooling system i am doing will basically cool the whole system by the time i am done. But for now just the cpu and video card.

    Also itll be big enough to pass on from comp build to comp build. I have about 450 bux to spend on it.
  11. twite

    twite TechSpot Paladin Posts: 937


    You could do a lot more with that.

    You could do thermoelectric cooling.

    Get -C temps.
  12. JimShady23

    JimShady23 TS Maniac Posts: 373

    Good Site:

    If you are in the USA, this is a awesome awesome site for anything overclocking. www.frozencpu.com if your looking for it, most likley they will have or can get it. They are a hair higher priced than some of the big online stores but they are a mom and pop company and will be able to help you out first hand if you need advice.

    Also, CMH is right, the risk if properly installed is little to none. As with anything else, a home made duck tape job is going to be more prone to disaster than a quality manufactured unit.

    And also the tidbit about car cooling sysytems that are not sappost to leak, well a radiator on a car is subjected to a ton more abuse than any heat exchanger on a PC will ever see in 100 years. Remeber a car radiator usually springs leaks from bugs, rocks and other hard objects being slammed into it at 55+ mph from going down the highway.
  13. Cinders

    Cinders TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 872   +12

    Pump head pressure is slightly more important than how much coolant the pump can push in an hour. Also consider that you don't want a hot running pump that will warm the coolant.

    What pump or pumps are you planning on?
  14. War_Ensemble

    War_Ensemble TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 20

    The magnum 350 deluxe fish tank pump a resivore and a pump all in one local pet shop has them for under 60 bux. 350 gph and them do a dual bay resivore and get my splitters
  15. CMH

    CMH TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 2,039   +9

    I'm not sure about Asetek, but I'd say that Danger Den (DD) and Swiftech would have among the best waterblocks out there for both CPU and GPU. There probably are better waterblocks out there, but I'd say at most you'd see a 2C improvement in temps. In other words, quite minimal.

    Just make sure you google them for good reviews and comparisons before buying them. Results from different sites shouldn't be compared.

    I personally would go with the Swiftech mainly because DD is not available here, or it's not very easily available. Which is why I've read alot of reviews and their kit is often used as a baseline to compare with other products. Same goes with the DD waterblocks.
  16. War_Ensemble

    War_Ensemble TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 20

    ty all for the replies ill let ya know how it goes. I believe 5/8 ID out hose and 5/8 ID in hose that will be broken down into 2-1/2 inch ID will be enough flow. and maybe 2-4 more 1/2 id will be enough behind 350 gph? Im just worried about the pressure that it wont be too much or not enough?
  17. CMH

    CMH TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 2,039   +9

    I don't think having a smaller diameter hose will help with the pressure. It would just increase your resistance, and therefore reduce your pressure, not increase it. If thats what you're trying to acheive that is.

    If you can use 5/8" hoses, use them. Using smaller hoses can make a huge impact on your pressures. I'd stay away from 3/8" hoses. Is there any particular reason why you'd want smaller hoses?
  18. War_Ensemble

    War_Ensemble TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 20

    No the smallest i wanna go is 1/2 inside diameter hose. case all the water blocks i have found is the biggest 1/2 outside diameter. my pump has a 5/8 outside diameter fitting on it so 1/2 inside diameter hose will be the smallest i am going into. and 5/8 inside diameter hose will be the biggest. Its just that i may split the 5/8 inside diameter hose into at the most 4-1/2 inside diameter hose at the least 2-1/2 insided iameter hose. That way all will have its own cooling from the pump. This isnt a series this is a parallel cooling system i think i got that right
  19. CMH

    CMH TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 2,039   +9

    1/2" hoses are good enough. Which waterblocks are you going for?
  20. War_Ensemble

    War_Ensemble TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 20

    Danger Den full copper. I just need to find a blck to convert 5/8 into 4-1/2 but be able to close off to of the 1/2 in for the time being. just gonna cool the cpu and the gpu. untill i get a lil more cash around.
  21. CMH

    CMH TechSpot Chancellor Posts: 2,039   +9

    There's a few schools of thought on cooling other components.

    Watercooling RAM and NB probably gives very minimal performance headroom, so I wouldn't really bother. This goes for graphics card RAM as well.

    There's no need to say watercooling other things like HDD and soundcards, southbridges... they're a total waste of money.
  22. War_Ensemble

    War_Ensemble TS Rookie Topic Starter Posts: 20

    well if i ever went sli then i would have the setup for it just add tubing and a water block for the video card. Hd's im not worried about nor south bridge or sound card. just CPU, GPU, and a second one sometime maybe, and my NorthBridge. Like i said i have a Big case Full tower. 120mm in the front hard drives sideways the fan is right there. and a 120mm in the back those will be my only 2 fans besides my heatercore fan.I put a Thermaltake Big Typhoon cpu cooler in there for the time being. Dropped the temps from roughly 54C at a between idle and medium load; to idles at 38C. At a load of BF2 42C max now. GPU idles at 52C with a load though it goes to bout 58. Makes it nice in the winter sux in the summer lol. This is gonna be my Pump http://www.fish.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=710534+002&srccode=FSHSHPNG
    I can get it cheaper than that here in Indiana gonna mount it on top of my case in the back above my power supply I have about 2 inches between my power supply and the top of my case.
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