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Watercooling kit hardware help (CPU)

By H3llion · 42 replies
Jul 25, 2013
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  1. Watercooling (kit) Hardware Help (CPU)

    Hey guys (evening, morning, afternoon [​IMG]),

    So I have ordered up 4770k, asus hero, vengeance pro 2x8GB (2400) and Corsair ax860 and are in need of a WC components for the CPU cooling (thermal paste suggestions and whether CLU is worth it tips id appreciate as well).

    • So far for the Waterblock I am sticking with XSPC Raystorm which il get red leds for at some later stage.
    • For RAD I need a 360 slim for Cosmos 2 (top)
    • In terms of a reservoir, I am going with a cylinder type, something along the lines of this.
    • When it comes to tubing, black and no restrictions on flex or thickness, as long as it all fits within the other components of course.

    Rest of the parts such as the pumps and fittings I have no idea about. If you guys could recommend me some rads, pumps, fittings and anything else I might need id greatly appreciate that. Iv never WCooled before and with 4770k getting rather hot for 4.5Ghz id love to get into WCling ASAP.

    My price range is under £300 (the cheaper the better, but best possible temps for a good price +1) [​IMG]

    Thanks in advance,​
  2. LinkedKube

    LinkedKube TechSpot Project Baby Posts: 3,481   +44

    Send a pm to red1776. His setup is more extensive than my own. I'll probably only be chiming on every so often as while I have built my own WC'ing system I haven't built many
  3. Blkfx1

    Blkfx1 TS Evangelist Posts: 860   +203

    I'd recommend saving up some more money if you're serious about water cooling. For a nice LC set up, it's going to cost some money.

    You could also try out one of swift techs kits such as the H20-220 as it provides a decent foundation in which you can expand on.
  4. LinkedKube

    LinkedKube TechSpot Project Baby Posts: 3,481   +44

    This is true. I think the cheapest part of my setup was the res at about 40 usd. I wound up spending around $500 usd and that didnt even my second water block for my 580 sli.
  5. red1776

    red1776 Omnipotent Ruler of the Universe Posts: 5,223   +163

    You are most likely depending on your MB layout going to have room for a very slim rad and push pull it. Or a 45-50mm Rad you can pull. the thicker Rad with a pull setup is the better option by far. Push/pull on a Rad that slim is not going to net any additional results. A 45-50mm Rad up top with fans of Static pressure of 3.0+ will dissipate much more heat.
    I have a Cosmos 2 WC setup and working on a second , so if you need a measurement let me know.
    Good luck with the build.
  6. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,891   +1,262

    Here's a setup that provides future expandability and uses quality components. You haven't specified how aggressively you plan to OC, or if you plan to look at a happy medium between a good OC and quietness, so bearing that in mind...

    Pump: Choices are basically the DDC or D5 - both Laing derived. Personally, I'd go with the D5 if space isn't a concern- and it shouldn't be in a Cosmos II, so
    Alphacool VPP655 (Laing D5) with High Flow acetal top (£ 80)
    Radiator: If you're erring towards absolute quietness
    Swiftech MCP320QPK (£42) or for a good overall package: Alphacool NexXxos XT45 (£60)
    Reservoir: There's nothing wrong with the Bitspower res you've already linked to, but I'd look at getting it from SpecialTech since it's a bit cheaper at £30
    Tubing: Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Black 3/8"ID - 5/8"OD £1.50 per metre. I'd recommend 3 metres which gives you plenty spare for future expansion, re-doing the loop, f__ ups etc.
    Fittings: Choice here is between barbs and hose clamps or compression. You'll need eight fittings in total ( 2 for CPU, 2 for reservoir, 2 for pump, 2 for radiator). I'd recommend barbs and clamps for at least the radiator since they are generally easier to fit in a confined space ( say, 2 x Bitspower barbs @ £2.75 each and 2 x Spring hose clamps at £1 each)
    The other choice is compression fittings. Assuming you don't opt for an all barb/clamp setup, the choice is either standard 3/8"ID -5/8"OD compression ( Bitspower matt black BP-MBCPF-CC3 @ 7.39 each = £44.34 total) and a suitable Kill Coil ( £4.50) OR what I think is a better option, 99.999% pure silver plated fittings ( Bitspower BP-SLCPF-CC3 @ £9 each from OcUK or purchase direct from Bitspower)
    Coolant: Go to your local chemist and buy some distilled water. The loop will take around 750-1000ml, so a 5 litre container would be your best bet.
    Radiator fans: For a reasonable static pressure + quietness + quality bearing I'd look at Xigmatek's XLF-F125x range at ~£7 each. If your budget can stretch, then the Scythe Gentle Typhoon series make very good radiator fans (albeit a little loud at high rpm).
    With a £300 budget, I'd say you should have enough leeway to buy a quality fan controller- a worthwhile investment if you decide to go push-pull with the fans since fan cable routing will end up being a much simpler exercise.

    EDIT: An here's your XSPC 3mm Dual LED (red) for the RayStorm hold down plexi bracket (£3.60 each. You have the option to use 2 cables (4 LED's) with the hold down).
    H3llion and cliffordcooley like this.
  7. red1776

    red1776 Omnipotent Ruler of the Universe Posts: 5,223   +163

    A couple recommendations for you.
    Alphacool NexXxos XT45 line
    1) all copper construction ( except steel frame and brass inserts)
    2) access (inlet/outlets on all sides of the tanks) for great flexibility
    3) Ideal fin density for a quiet build 9.5 FPI

    I purchased the black Alphacool radiators and am custom painting them. These are in mid process with a wet sand and clear coat still needed



    Alphacool Vpp-655 (D5)
    1) powerful pump with adjustable speed
    2) Good for future upgrades
    3) Extremely quiet

    Primochill Advanced LTR
    1) Stays Clear
    2) very flexible and workable

    1( extremely high quality construction
    2) high quality finish

    CM Excalibur
    (I tried many fans...I mean a lot of fans) while these are relatively expensive to take advantage of using a 45mm-50mm rad in the roof of the Cosmos 2, These are tremendous performers to exploit tha additional fin surface dissipating area with 3.53mm H2O and very quiet. I can't say enough about them. the bearing is a Barometric Ball bearing and the blade assembly pops off for intermittent cleaning.
    http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2965&product_name=Excalibur (R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)

    As far as Thermal compound. I started using IC Diamond some months ago and it has produced the best temperatures by a relatively wide margin

    Here again I am partial to Bitspower. The quality , fit and finish is always top flight.
    200x200px-ZC-135c3b4a_ex-res-157. 200x200px-ZC-135c3b4a_ex-res-157.

    I Just started a build log for the Cosmos 2 Watercooled build I have just started if you want to look in from time to time.
    Holodeck XI / AMD Quadfire/ Extreme Watercooling BuildLog
  8. H3llion

    H3llion TechSpot Paladin Topic Starter Posts: 1,314   +258

    Oh sweet, wasn't expecting that many replies. System is arriving today (or should! :D) so il be making a list of items for the WCling.

    The pump is what I was stuck on most, but il go with DDC or D5 what Dividedbyzero suggested.

    Which 360 rad are you using for the Cosmos 2? I am not sure whether a thick rad would fit with push pull. I am getting the Asus Hero, il try to measure up the clearance and post back the measurements here.

    I heard you can't even get push/pull even with slim on the Cosmos 2.

    What are the light bars you have on top of your cosmos 2? I am thinking of adding some like that on top but in red + front and bottom. Although, still not sure about the lightning :/

    Once again thanks :)
  9. red1776

    red1776 Omnipotent Ruler of the Universe Posts: 5,223   +163

    I have an Alphacool NexXxos XT45mm x 360mm in pull with the CM Excalibur fans. They are 3.53mm H2O and it performs extremely well. I am also running D5 pumps as well
    GhostRyder likes this.
  10. H3llion

    H3llion TechSpot Paladin Topic Starter Posts: 1,314   +258

    Sweet, well I am going to hit up the shopping cart. Like a nab, iv forgot to order RAM and Thermal Paste. Luckily I took out some sticks from work, hopefully they are going to work temporarily.

    In terms of the fans, won't it matter if its static pressure fans or not? Wouldn't static pressure fans generate better results?
  11. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,891   +1,262

    The higher the static pressure, the higher the actual airflow of the fans. So, as red noted 3+mm H2O is probably what you should aim for. Just remember that high static pressure often comes at the cost of higher noise due to fan rotation speed. 6.5+mm H2O isn't uncommon for server orientated San Ace and Delta fans.
    If you can source them, the Koolance MBK/HBK series are purpose made for radiator cooling. Dual ball bearing, and 4.1mm H20 (Koolance FAN-12025MBK) or 5.4mm H20 (Koolance FAN-12025HBK). You may have trouble sourcing them in the UK, but Performance PC in the US ships internationally, and Hellfire Toyz (on eBay) also have them for sale.
    Other high static pressure fans suitable for radiators that use a quality bearing are the NZXT FN-120LB Enthusiast, Thermaltake's Blue Eye (Revision 2), Nanoxia FX series, and Silverstone FM121. The Xigmatek fans I mentioned in my previous post are nominally around ~2.4mm H20, but they push pretty much the same at 1200 r.p.m. and are barely audible.
  12. H3llion

    H3llion TechSpot Paladin Topic Starter Posts: 1,314   +258

    Ah sweet, thinking about it, there is so much to learn ^^

    Well, time to get ordering! :D

    Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360 Rad (not sure what UK retailer id get it from)

    Alphacool VPP655 Laing D5

    Bitspower Z Reservoir

    Is the large going to effect the cooling performance much?

    CM Excalibur x3 for the the top rad. Do these make decent case fans as well?
    In terms of fans, any suggestions for 4x 140mm for the cosmos 2 side panel, 200mm for the front panel and another 140mm for the exhaust? Il be spray painting all the fan blades red.

    Tubing Primochill Black

    Red Coils

    Bitspower fittings

    All good or em I missing anything more? :D
  13. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,891   +1,262

    Good luck. If you're in need of a refresher course or checklist, give my Watercooling guide a browse. So long as you make sure you have everything before you start the install you should be fine
  14. H3llion

    H3llion TechSpot Paladin Topic Starter Posts: 1,314   +258

    Thanks, il probably start working on all this next Friday (fri, sat, sun days of work, well at least partly heh). Il check the guide out, bit of a evening read will do :D

    Once again thanks for the help :)
  15. GhostRyder

    GhostRyder This guy again... Posts: 2,198   +593

    Well first nice selection, you can get the Alpha cool nexxxos rad from www.frozecpu.com and they deliver to almost everywhere (I checked they deliver to UK).

    As far as the reservoir goes, the more the merrier especially when you add GPU's or other componenets to the loop (I did not see you listing doing that, so im assuming your not adding GPU's in the loop at least not yet). Having a larger reservoir would be better in the long run because more liquid moving means more chances for expansion and better running temps (not by much, itsw mostly the expandability that matters in that area).

    I have the Raystorm AMD version water block (Same block, different adapter) and its an excellent block!.

    As far as the tubing and coils, might I recommend clear tubing instead and adding some dye bombers to make the liquid colored. Its fun to watch and is fun to show to people (most of my friends who bought colored tubing of any kind regret it later because they are stuck with the color), but that's just an opinion on colors and more about looks than anything. Black tubing with red coils will look sick, but with clear, you have the option to change colors later.

    As far as missing something the liquid, I didn't see it on the list, heres my recommendation as I love this stuff!
    PrimoChill Pure ( I have the red Dye bomber variant)

    Also, I don't see any Fittings on your list? Do you want to go compression or just the Barbs? As a personal opinion, I prefer the Compression fittings myself because they look better and worked better for me.



    Just some quick examples, make sure to get ones that will fit with your tubing!

    That's my bit of advice, hope it helps.
  16. red1776

    red1776 Omnipotent Ruler of the Universe Posts: 5,223   +163

    The CM Excalibur would make good case fans, and if you want everything to match, then by all means. They are a bit expensive though so you can use more cost efficient higher CFM fans to get air moving in/out of your case.
    One of my favorite case fans are The Cougars. they are high CFM, good looking, quiet, and have a great bearing system.
    Good luck and a bit of advice...as you are putting this project together, refer back to DBZ's .https://www.techspot.com/community/topics/the-watercooling-guide-from-a-to-z.180876/
    Oh yes (Do not forget) to give your new rad a thorough flush prior to istall. Or you will end up with a line of junk material the shape of your jet plate opening sitting atop your CPU block microfins causing flow problems.
    Good luck with the build :)
  17. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,891   +1,262

    You quoted a budget in pounds sterling- I'd assumed you were in the UK. Surprised that you're sourcing so many of the parts from the U.S. ( esp. FrozenCPU who don't offer the best shipping rates - check the shipping estimator at the bottom of the links you posted as an example) when they are readily available in the UK
    For example, the anti-kink coil...tubing....rotary adapter (I'm at a complete loss here. Why bother with them? You'll still need to get compression fittings since these are just extenders- they have no compression fitting). Adapters are usually used when an original loop is expanded, of the user decides on a different routing approach and their existing fittings don't line up well with what's planned. If you're wanting angled compression fittings then these are a better bet since you'll get the angle and the rotary and the compression fitting all in one. They are out of stock at OcUK at the moment, but Scan do have them in stock.
    As for fans, I'd check out some comparative reviews. Martin's Liquid lab has made an art form from watercooling airflow. A older comparison of 50 fans >>here<<, and a more recent comparison including the Cougar Vortex that red1776 mentioned, and the Gentle Typhoon that I noted in my earlier post.
  18. H3llion

    H3llion TechSpot Paladin Topic Starter Posts: 1,314   +258

    The actual item list was gathered throughout the thread, I will look for UK specific dealers for the components I have chosen.

    In terms of the adapter, I forgot to link the actual fittings instead (which ever the ones you have mentioned). In total, how many will I need? Around 4-6?

    Il start building the UK list for the items today and purchase them as soon as possible.

    In terms of paste applying:

    Delidd 4770K, clean up the paste from under the IHS (il use ArticClean Thermal Material Remover) then apply CLU (or IC Diamond?) then put it back together. Place the CPU in the socket, on the waterblock add thermal paste (MX4?).

    I have not done any delidding, applying CLU type material before which I guess Youtube videos will hold my hand through it.

    Is CLU/IC Diamond worth it? I heard that it can scratch the heat spreader or something along those lines.
  19. red1776

    red1776 Omnipotent Ruler of the Universe Posts: 5,223   +163

    I will keep my thoughts to myself regarding what that whole IC Diamond deal is, However I Have been using IC Diamond for a while now and have found it to be far and away the best Thermal Compound available. As far as this "scratching" BS...(oopps, there I go) I have put down a very high number of applications on my review rig and personal machines and observed no such thing.
    Including this. This is one of my review CPU's. It has had at least five applications of IC Diamond

    At any rate, it is good stuff and I highly recommend it..
    H3llion likes this.
  20. H3llion

    H3llion TechSpot Paladin Topic Starter Posts: 1,314   +258

    Sweet, thanks man.

    So, CLU under IHS and IC Diamond under waterblock is the best combo?

    Using 4770k @ stock with Artic Freezer 13 I hit high 90's in Prime95 Large FFTs test, is that normal for 4770k? I know it can run very hot but the near TJ heats hits pretty much within first 10 seconds of running the test.

    Screens, light medium workload.

    Anyway, Il probably not game on this until I have proper cooling in place (nicked this cooler from work, there is like 1000 of them heh).
  21. Blkfx1

    Blkfx1 TS Evangelist Posts: 860   +203

    What sort of cooling do you have in place right now? 90's running stock clocks / voltage is pretty high, even for a stock cooler. Also, what is ambient temps?
  22. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,891   +1,262

    From the OPs previous post, a pretty basic one...
    ...a mini-tower cooler (92mm fan). Prime95 is going to make that sweat. A small FFT run- or god forbid, a Linpack run using IBT/OCCT/LinX would make it break down and cry.
    You had me worried there for a moment.
    Two fittings per component. Radiator, pump (if using a HF top), CPU block, and reservoir. The reservoir will include a stop fitting (for filling/refilling). Instead of using this you may want to consider buying a temperature sensor stop fitting if you plan on monitoring temps via a fan controller with temp display (relatively cheap AIO sensor/screens are also available). I would also consider buying an extra 1/2" barb- when you fill/refill, attach the barb to a length of hose long enough to exit the chassis and replace the stop fitting with the barb. Grab a small funnel for the other end of the hose and refilling should be relatively straightforward.
  23. Blkfx1

    Blkfx1 TS Evangelist Posts: 860   +203

    Ahhh, I didn't notice the bottom of his previous post. That explains it.
  24. H3llion

    H3llion TechSpot Paladin Topic Starter Posts: 1,314   +258

    I remember running Artic 7 on my 555 BE ^^

    Well, I better keep it down below 80C.

    Just out of curiosity. If the CPU reaches 100C or high 80s+ how bad is the damage on the CPU from the heat? Will it hurt it if it runs at that temps for around 5-10 seconds? Or does it take more like few minutes in order for it to degrade very fast?

    It's high 35's on idle and 80s to 100s for heavy load. Il test BF3 temps on Tuesday when my 780 arrives since I can't run s*** right now on this 8400 (my 460 died it seems).
  25. dividebyzero

    dividebyzero trainee n00b Posts: 4,891   +1,262

    Transient high temps aren't going to create a problem. If the CPU reaches Tj max it will automatically shut down in any event. In general, transient (lack of) cooling/temp degradation is miniscule compared to overvolting degradation

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